Let’s go to the equatorial zone of the Earth. This is a place of eternal summer, usually hot and humid. The line of the Equator crosses South America, Africa, Indonesia, and Oceania. Now, our choice is Indonesia, the southern part of the island of Sulawesi. This is South Sulawesi, today a province of Indonesia. Let’s go there on a journey and reveal the best it can offer!
Table of Contents
Geographical overview
Indonesia is a large country, occupying one of the largest archipelagos on the Earth. And one of the largest islands in this archipelago is Sulawesi, which is also one of the largest islands on our planet.
Sulawesi Island has a unique shape, like a fantastic sea creature, or an alien spider. It has a central body and four stretching peninsular that look like tentacles. Now, we focus on the southern “tentacle”.
Today, this area is a part of the Indonesian province of South Sulawesi, and this province includes not only the mainland of Sulawesi but also some small islands next to it.
More precisely, if you look at the map, you can see that there is an extension of the Southern Sulawesi peninsula- a long and narrow island stretching from north to south. It is called Selayar. And beyond it, there is an archipelago of small islands and atolls called Jampea Islands. It looks like they try to “serve” as a bridge between Sulawesi and the island of Flores in the south.
Overall geography of South Sulawesi
So, what geographical features you can see and explore in South Sulawesi?
First, South Sulawesi is located in the equatorial zone, and what you can expect is an all-year-round hot and humid climate with lands covered by equatorial rainforests (similar to those in the Amazon). Second, the seaside is equatorial too- with warm waters, coral reefs, mangrove forests at the seacoast, and tropical marine wildlife.
Regions of South Sulawesi
Unlike the big islands of Sumatra and Java, Sulawesi Island is mostly non-volcanic, and there are no active volcanoes, particularly in South Sulawesi. But there are high mountains, mostly in the north of South Sulawesi Province. Here you can find rugged terrain with spectacular valleys and peaks, covered by mountainous rainforests, as well as local formations like waterfalls, caves, and more.
The southern part of South Sulawesi is lower, with the large Lake Tempe in the middle. Here you can find one of the largest karst areas in Southeast Asia- Rammang Rammang.
Finally- the seaside. The South Peninsula of Sulawesi Island is surrounded by the Strait of Makassar in the west, the Flores Sea in the south, and the Gulf of Boni in the east. The waters around the peninsula are not empty but full of small islands, islets, atolls, and sand cays, mostly grouped in local archipelagos.
This land is inhabited by three main ethnic groups: Makassarese, Bugis, and Toraja. Makassarese live in the south, in Makassar city and around it. Bugis live mostly north of them, in the middle of South Sulawesi. Makassarese and Bugis are quite close to each other- they are mostly Muslims, with close languages and culture.
But the most exotic of them are Toraja. They are mostly Christians and live in the mountains, in the north. Toraja are well-known for their weird funeral ceremonies and burial traditions, and for the amazing architectural style of their houses.
So, let’s get into the details.
Makassar
Makassar is the largest city in South Sulawesi, its capital, and the largest city in the whole of Sulawesi Island, and even the whole of the eastern part of Indonesia. Normally, it is a starting point for exploring the region, but the city itself is also worth exploring. Btw, it is a bit strange but there are almost no coconut palms in such a tropical city like Makassar.
First- it is the local modern environment and culture. Its busy streets, malls, markets, and other city scenes, even the scent in the air, are unique for Makassar.
Second, some points of interest are worth visiting: Fort Rotterdam, 99 Domes Mosque, Museum of Makassar, Balla Lompoa Museum with Tamalate Palace, Fort Sombu Oppa, and a few more.
And finally, Makassar is the best place where you can exchange more money for your further trips and buy a local SIM card (if you don’t have such).
The Mountains in the north
The north part of South Sulawesi is a mountainous land. Here is the highest point of the whole island- Mount Latimojong, known also as Mt Buntu Rantemario (3478 m). In this area, you can find a lot of off-the-beaten opportunities for mountain hiking (almost without tourists).
But the most exotic and popular is Tana Toraja- the land of Toraja people. This land is beautiful, a maze of valleys with rice field and hills covered by mountain rainforests. However, the most essential thing to see is the local culture of Toraja, formed in this natural environment. This is a must see place for everybody who wants to explore South Sulawesi.
The plains and mountains in the south
In the south, the land is lower, with a plain between the western and eastern coasts of the Southern peninsula. In this area, the most interesting place is the large Lake Tempe- the second largest lake on Sulawesi Island, mostly known for its floating village.
South of these plains, there are mountains again, but they are generally lower than the mountains in the north. Yet they still hide a lot of beauty and local adventures- valleys, peaks, waterfalls, tranquil villages, and more. The only exception is Mt Moncong Lompobattang (2874 m)- although a bit lower than Latimojong, it is still a challenging place to hike.
However, here the most attractive place is the karst area just northeast of Makassar.
The karst area
This is another popular place to visit and it is popular for a reason. The place is known as Rammang Rammang- although Rammang Rammang is the name of only one village, this name was recently used for the whole karst area.
Rammang Rammang is a fairytale place, a bit like the famous karst areas in China but in a tropical environment (with coconut palms and tropical vegetation). It is a massif of joined karst hills (unlike many karst hills in Guilin and other similar places in China where the hills are more separated) with steep slopes and a lot of caves. Small picturesque rivers curve between the hills, and you can float by boat on one of them- actually, the best way to reach the village of Rammang Rammang.
But there is more- the oldest known pre-historic traces of humans in the world are discovered here, in some of these caves, mostly in a place called Leang Leang (now turned into a tourist attraction).
The seacoast of Sulawesi Mainland
The seacoast of South Sulawesi (the South Peninsula) doesn’t present too many beaches. Most of the coast is low, covered by mangrove forests or just wetlands gradually mixed with the sea. You still can find some beaches but they are very thin, unfortunately often polluted by the local fishing activities. Yet the seacoast views are still beautiful.
However, if you really want to find good beaches, you have to go to the southeastern tip of the peninsula. Here is Bira- a small town, recently turned into a resort. This is the place where you can enjoy a “tropical-paradise style” of beaches, with coconut palms, fine sand and crystal clear waters.
This is in general the nature of the mainland Sulawesi, in South Sulawesi. But the island is not “alone”, it is accompanied by multiple small pieces of land.
The islets in the west
You can see them clearly in the Google satellite image, and from the window of the airplane if you come from the west. They are like tiny spots in the endless deep blue of the sea. If you zoom in, you can notice that these spots are not only green but with some sandy yellow around them. Some are sand cays, and some are even atolls.
They are more than 120 in number and they are called Spermonde Archipelago, consisting of several sub-groups. The group that is close to Makassar is called Pabbiring Island- you can easily find a boat to some of these islands from the city. The most popular of them are Samalona and Kodingareng Keke.
South of them, you can see a few larger islands, not a part of Pabbiring (but still a part of the Spermonde Archipelago). They are Tanakeke Islands- not so attractive (no beaches on most of them but wetlands and mangroves only). But one of them- the remotest one, called Dayang Dayangan is a small uninhabited paradise with beaches, a challenge for those who are looking for off-the-beaten path adventures.
The islets in the east
On the east of South Sulawesi in the Gulf of Boni. Here you can’t see archipelagos like Pabbiring but there are still some small islands and coral reefs. Unlike the islands in the west, these are more attractive- almost no mangroves and wetlands but low cliffs, beaches and reefs.
You can easily spot a small archipelago, containing the islands of Padaelo, Kambuno, Liang Liang, Burungloe, and a few more. And you can see the coral reefs around them- an off-the-beaten diving paradise, almost unknown to the world.
Besides them, you can also see some sand bars, not far from the seacoast, covered by the sea during the high tide- again adventurous places for snorkeling, far from the civilization.
Selayar Islands
As mentioned above, Selayar is the largest island in South Sulawesi- an extension of Sulawesi Island to the south, straight from the southeast tips of the South Peninsula. Again, Selayas is not alone but it is the main island of a whole archipelago. It starts from Liukang Loe, only a few km southwest of Bira. Selayar Island itself is accompanied in the west of a few smaller islands- Gusung, Pasi, Bahuluang, and more.
Beyond the main island, the archipelago extends further in the southeast with the islands of Jampea, Kalao, Bonerate, and Kalaotoa. But the most exotic of all is the small sub-archipelago Taka Bonerate, consisting of a maze of atolls- one of the largest atoll areas in Southeast Asia- a bit difficult to access but incredibly beautiful, a paradise for diving and snorkeling.
That’s what the physical geography of South Sulawesi looks like. Now, let’s see how the humans appeared there and what they did and built until today.
History
South Sulawesi has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Little is known about the history of the region before the 15th century AD, but based on the discoveries, there is an overall picture of the distant past. So, let’s divide the region into periods.
Prehistorical period (unknown to the 1st millennium AD)
It is unclear when the first humans arrived in South Sulawesi (and the whole of Sulawesi Island). What we know is that here, in this region were found the earliest known cave paintings- in the caves of Leang Leang, as well as other traces of human presence. Nobody knows who were these people, how long they lived here, and what happened to them later.
In general, it is considered that the first humans in Sulawesi, and most of Southeast Asia were black people, known as Negritos. Later, mostly during the 1st millennium BC (in some regions earlier, in other regions later), the second human wave known as Austronesians, with more East Asian features arrived and gradually replaced or assimilated the local Negritos.
Today, some Negritos still live in the Andaman Islands, Peninsular Malaysia (Semang people), and the Philippines (Aeta). In Sulawesi, they were known as Tolean people. But they gradually disappeared (by local wars or assimilation). In it roughly considered that around the 1st millennium AD, the island was already inhabited only by Austronesians, with the remaining Negritos assimilated.
Early Austronesian and Buddhist period (1st millennium AD to 14th century AD)
During this period, only Austronesian people lived in South Sulawesi. They haven’t created any known strong empire or a large kingdom, but only small, local political entities- chiefdoms, known as “wanua” or “banua”.
Little is known about their history. They were of different ethnic groups. Most probably, they were animists. Hinduism and Buddhism were also introduced to Sulawesi Island, by the influence of nearby empires like Srivijaya, but these two religions had limited spread.
This is the period when the three main ethnic groups of South Sulawesi- Makassarese, Buginese, and Toraja were formed.
Pre-Colonial period (14th century – 1905)
In the beginning of this period, some chiefdoms got stronger than others, conquered or united with their neighbors. They turned into a few strong local kingdoms- Gowa, Bone, Wajoq, and Talloq. They were in constant rivalry with each other.
At the same time, new influences arrived from the west. First, it was the Islam that gradually spread among the Makassarese, Buginese, and other smaller coastal ethnic groups. Only Toraja remained animists. Local kingdoms one by one turned into Sultanates.
The other influence came from the Dutch. The Europeans started colonizing the area from the 17th century, using various ways of contracts and unions with some sultanates against other sultanates.
Finally, in 1905, the last sultanate was abolished, Tana Toraja conquered, and the whole of South Sulawesi became a part of the Netherlands East Indies.
Colonial period (1905 to 1949)
It was the period of the Dutch colonial rule over the whole of today’s Indonesia. It was disrupted by the Japanese occupation between 1942 and 1945 only. The Japanese rule was heavy but without significant atrocities or war devastation.
After the Japan’s surrender, the Dutch tried to re-establish their rule over South Sulawesi again, but the Indonesian National Revolution that spread around the whole of Indonesia prevented them from restoration of the previous colonial regime.
Modern Indonesian period (1949 until today)
The new country of Indonesia was established in 1945, but the whole of South Sulawesi was transferred to the new country in 1949. In 1950 the whole country was renamed into Unitary Republic of Indonesia.
Since then, until now, the region has been relatively peaceful. The first years of independence were difficult but the economy gradually grew, and today South Sulawesi is the most developed part of Sulawesi Island. Meanwhile, Toraja people in the north embraced Christianity (Catholic and Protestant versions), mostly to resist Islam.
Eventually, tourism arrived here too. The first area of interest was Tana Toraja, attracting the weird funeral traditions and architecture of the local Toraja people. Along with Toraja, tourists discovered some other places like Rammang Rammang, the capital Makassar, and the seacoast around Bira and Selayar Islands, although they are still far from the popularity of Bali.
Culture
So, when we talk about the culture in South Sulawesi, we have to divide it into the culture of the Makassarese and Bugis people, and the culture of Toraja people.
Makassarese and Bugis people
Bugis (Buginese) are the largest ethnic group in South Sulawesi. They live mostly in the middle of the province, as well as in the coastal areas in the north.
Makassarese are the second largest ethnic group in the region. They live mostly in the south, including the capital of Makassar. Branches of them live also in Selayar Islands (but they speak different dialects).
These two ethnic groups are in a close relationship, with quite similar cultures and traditions. They are mostly Muslims and today live a modern lifestyle just like most of the other large Muslim ethnic groups in Indonesia like Javanese, Sundanese, Minangkabau, and more.
Toraja people
Toraja people are the third largest ethnic group in South Sulawesi. They live mostly in the mountains in the north part of the region. And they are mostly famous for their funeral traditions and unique architectural style of their houses.
Toraja are predominantly Christians- Catolics or Protestants. Only a small part of them are Muslums or Animists. But despite of their different religions, their funeral traditions and style of their houses is the same for all of them.
They are fully aware of the popularity of their traditions and they keep them not only as their unique inheritance but also as the main tool of tourism development. Today, they live modern life, proud of their culture, turning their land into a popular tourist destination.
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How to explore South Sulawesi- best things to do
So, let’s recap the best things to do in South Sulawesi, and the best places to do these things, where you can best explore the main features and highlights of this land, described above. Thus, you can get a better idea of how to build your South Sulawesi itinerary.
Dive into the modern life of the big city- Makassar
Normally, Makassar would be the first place to visit in South Sulawesi, the starting point for further trips. It is a big city, the capital (an administrative center) of a province, and a cultural center in this part of Indonesia.
So, you can expect a lot of civilization here, mixed with bustling local life. Makassar is a city with rich, poor, and middle areas. You can see open street markets, small local shops, and luxurious malls, modern office buildings and colorful, a bit messy neighborhoods, as well as large industrial zones and sea ports.
All of this is a perfect environment to get used to the local culture of South Sulawesi, and it would be the best reason to not hurry from Makassar to other destinations in the province.
In addition, there are some points of interest and landmarks worth visiting: Fort Rotterdam, Losari Beach, 99 Domes Mosque, Fort Somba Opu and the beautiful park around it, as well as the local museums- Makassar, Balla Lompoa (with Tamalate Palace), and Karaeng Pattingalloang.
Enjoy the tropical beaches- Bira and Selayar
The tropical beaches with coconut palms, crystal clear warm waters, and fairytale coral reefs are always one of the best features of every seaside tropical country. South Sulawesi is a seaside tropical land, and if you want to enjoy such tropical beaches, you can find them here too.
However, most of the coastline, not only in Sulawesi Island but also in most of Southeast Asia is not what most people would like to be. The seacoast is often flat, without beaches but agricultural fields turning into swamps and muddy mangrove forests (sometimes with saltwater crocodiles, especially near the river mouth).
Sometimes, you can see sandy beaches but they are far from “perfect”- they are very thin and often dirty. Definitely not proper for “beaching”. They are empty. The only people who would go there, are local fishermen or village children playing in the sand (or mud).
So, if you want to find real, “classical” tropical beaches, you have to look only for specific destinations. The best beaches in South Sulawesi are located around the extreme southeastern tip of the South Peninsula. Here is the resort town of Bira, and here you can find the best beaches in the whole province.
Another place with tropical beaches is Selayar Island and its smaller satellite islands, although the beaches here are not as good as those in Bira (with some exceptions- hidden gems accessible only by boat).
You still can find other beaches in South Sulawesi, far north along the western or the eastern coast of the South Peninsula, but again, they can’t compare with those in Bira.
Roam into the fairytale karst landscapes- Rammang Rammang
Have you ever been to Guilin, China? At least, you have probably seen Chinese pictures with weird, steep, and sharp hills, a typical traditional image of the country.
Here, in South Sulawesi, you can find such hills too. They are karst hills, formed in an area with karst (limestone) rocks, in a wet, tropical environment. In China, the whole karst landscape is often garnished with curving rivers, bamboo forests, and Chinese temples.
The karst hills area in South Sulawesi looks quite similar but the landscape has its own tropical image- with coconut palms, reeds, and local rainforest. This area is called Rammang Rammang and it is one of the most famous destinations in South Sulawesi.
Rammang Rammang is easily reachable from Makassar and can be explored by boat on the local river, as well as on hiking trails in the area. While you hike, you can see a lot of caves, some with the oldest human traces in the world.
Ride a boat on a lake- Lake Tempe
Another way to feel the local geography is to float on a local lake. Lake Tempe is the largest lake in South Sulawesi and one of the largest in the whole island of Sulawesi. And it is another geographical feature in the tropics.
Lake Tempe is located in the middle of South Sulawesi, in a plain between two mountain ranges. It is considered that once it has been a part of the sea, now separated from the sea and connected with an outflowing river.
However, visiting the lake is not only with purpose of seeing this type of physical geography. The most attractive part of it is human and cultural. There is a floating village with its own lifestyle, and it is a part of the whole destination.
The only way to visit the floating village of Tempe is by boat riding from the largest lakeside town- Sengkang. So, you have the opportunity not only to taste the lifestyle of the floating village inhabitants and the beautiful lake scenery around but also to enjoy a boat ride on the warm lake waters.
Explore one of the most unique cultures in the world- Tana Toraja
In recent years, the land of Tana Toraja and the culture of Toraja people, has become one of the main destinations in Indonesia (outside of Bali). This is a journey to a mountainous land with inhabitants presenting a unique cultural world.
As already mentioned above, there are two main features that travelers would like to see and try. The first is the Toraja’s unique funeral ceremonies, or at least, their burial sites (because experiencing a local funeral ceremony is not always possible).
And the second is their beautiful villages with their tongkonan- traditional houses with boat-shaped roofs, arranged in a specific order. These villages, established in the local hills and valleys with rice fields create amazing picturesque landscapes.
So, it is strongly recommended to include Tana Toraja in your South Sulawesi itinerary and spend at least 3-4 days there.
Go on a mountain adventure- Mount Latimojong
A significant part of South Sulawesi consists of mountains. Because they are located in the equatorial geographic zone, they are covered by vegetation characteristic of this zone.
So, if you want to try more of the physical geography of this region, you have to take a hike in the local mountains. And the best way to do this is to reach the highest point of South Sulawesi- Mount Latimojong.
It is not an easy hike. First, you must reach the closest and most proper village to the peak. From there, you have to hike on a trail with a moderate to hard level of difficulty. Finally, the altitude of the summit may cause altitude sickness.
In other words, reaching the top of Mount Latimojong is a serious adventure requiring a proper gear, a well-arranged transport, and of course, some hiking experience. At least, the route has been popular among the locals in recent years, the trail is well-established, with shelters on the way, and you will meet many local hikers on the way.
Touch the underwater world- Pabbiring and Selayar Islands
Finally, the sea around South Sulawesi hides an incredibly beautiful underwater world. This part of Indonesia is located in the middle of the so-called Coral Triangle- an area with the richest coral wildlife in the world, known as the “Amazon of the seas”.
The coral reefs and the warm clear waters reveal fantastic underwater sceneries, great for snorkeling and scuba diving. There are a lot of diving spots around South Sulawesi. One of the areas is the Pabbiring Islands. Another area is the shallow reefs east of Bajoe, in the Gulf of Boni.
But the most beautiful diving and snorkeling area is called Taka Bonerate- a sub-archipelago that belongs to Selayar Islands. Selayar Islands consists of the main Selayar Island, many smaller islands around it, and the atoll group of Taka Bonerate.
Today Taka Bonerate is a national marine park, with only a few local settlements. The rest is a vast area of reefs and sandbars, with a rich coral world around them. It is still a highly off-the-beaten area, with almost no developed tourism and no luxury or other extras, relatively difficult (or expensive) to reach.
But if you manage to reach Taka Bonerate, you will feel like “at the end of the world”, far from civilization- an incredible feeling, a dream for every adventurous traveler.
South Sulawesi packing list- what to bring
It depends on what are you going to explore in South Sulawesi. Only Tana Toraja and the high mountains? Only beaches, snorkeling, and diving? Or, a bit of everything?
First of all, there are some basic things that you must bring with you no matter where you go- shirts, underwear, toiletries, electronic devices, etc. That’s your basic packing list. But from this, you have to bring some additional things that are specific to the activity you are going to do.
If you want to hike Mt Latimojong, don’t forget that it is 3478 m high. Although it is in the equatorial zone, it can be still cold on the top, even freezing! In addition, the trail is steep and difficult.
If you go only to Tana Toraja, it is much easier, in a mild mountainous climate. If you go exploring beaches, or diving around some reefs, you would need proper equipment too. And if you want to do all of this, you would need to bring all that’s necessary.
Gear for hiking Mt Latimojong
The trail to the top of the mountain is steep. It can be muddy, and in the higher section- rugged and stony. So, you would need good hiking shoes: three-season hiking boots or at least summer hiking shoes. The three-season hiking boots are heavier but warmer, while the summer hiking shoes are lighter but cooler. Both of these should have good traction features.
When you reach the higher sections of the trail, it will get cold. It usually also gets windy above the tree line. Ok, while you ascend to the top, you will not feel it, you can even sweat. If you descend faster, that’s not a big problem too. But if you stop in the night to sleep, you could feel freezing! So, you would need a good sweater, a polar, and a jacket.
It can be rainy sometimes. So, prepare your raincoat. I would also highly recommend bringing hiking poles, due to the difficult level of the trail.
Finally, if you spend the night on the slope of the mountain, you would need camping gear- a proper tent with a pad and a sleeping bag. And since it will be dark, bring your headlamp!
Gear for the sea paradise in Bira and Selayar Islands
This is a different activity, without too much walking.
If you want to enjoy the beaches of the tropical paradise, you can just bring your normal beach equipment. But if you want to get a bit deeper, you have to bring your snorkeling gear- at least a mask and a snorkel. You can rent these too, but it is better to bring your own.
And if you want to do all of these activities, you have to bring all the necessary gear for them. It can be bulky and heavy, but there is a solution- if you build your itinerary properly, you can leave the things you don’t need in your place to sleep. For example, you can bring everything to Rantepao in Tana Toraja or the starting point for Mt Latimojong, but you can leave your diving gear in the hotel or guesthouse while you hike. And, you can leave your jacket in your hotel in Bira while you travel to the Selayar Islands.
Gear for Tana Toraja or Rammang Rammang
Tana Toraja and Rammang Rammang are well-developed tourist areas. Rammang Rammang is in low altitude while Tana Toraja is in the mountains but not too high- between 800 and 1500 m altitude, mostly around 900-1000 m. It is not too high, so it can’t be cold, only a bit cool sometimes. And it can be hot but not as hot and wet as at the sea coast. So, you just have to prepare clothes for a pleasant climate, sometimes with rain.
Normally, most of your activities in these places would be traveling by local vehicle (a car, or a motorcycle) in Tana Toraja, and a boat on the main river in Rammang Rammang. Most of the points of interest are located along the roads or beside the river piers.
There are still some hiking opportunities but they are relatively easy and short. Normally, you would just need some ordinary hiking accessories like proper hiking shoes (not boots!), and eventually- hiking poles. Bring a raincoat too, just in case. And don’t forget to use sunscreen, the sun is strong!
Useful tips
So, let’s get into some important details that you can consider when you plan your South Sulawesi itinerary.
Visa policy of Indonesia
Currently, Indonesia visitors can be divided into three groups:
- Visa-free (for 30 days): all citizens from Southeast Asia.
- Visa on arrival (for 30 days): most of the countries in the world, including the EU, USA, Russia, China, Australia, and more.
- Approval in advance: visitors from most countries in Africa and the Middle East, as well as citizens from some Caribbean, Central American, and a few more countries. Citizens from several specific countries require also approval from the government.
For more details, see here Visa policy of Indonesia.
Currency
Indonesian Rupiah (INR). Currently, 1 INR + 0,012 USD, or 1 USD = 82,8 INR. Because there are too many zeros in the prices, be careful when calculating.
Electric socket
Plugs: type C and F (both with 2 round pins, like in Europe). Voltage: 230 V (it can be higher for some countries and may require a voltage converter).
Language
The official language in Indonesia is Indonesian (Bahasa Indonesia). At the same time, the local ethnic groups Makassarese, Bugis, and Toraja speak their own local languages. Almost all of them can speak Bahasa Indonesia.
However, not everybody can speak English. Usually, most of the young people, especially those who work with tourists can understand and speak English. But if you want to communicate with others, you may need at least Google Translate (which requires the Internet).
Transportation
Transportation in South Sulawesi is a bit unclear for those who get used to regular trains, buses, ferries, and other lines with clear timetables and routes. Here everything is different and a bit “messy”, at least from first sight.
By air
The main entrance gate to South Sulawesi is Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport. Unless you visit this area on land or sea from other directions, you would most likely arrive here from this airport, located in Makassar.
Check for flights to Makassar!
There are two domestic lines used by travelers from Sultan Hasanuddin Airport. The first one is to Rantepao in Tana Toraja, and the second one- to Benteng, the main town in Selayar Island. But besides these, every other way of transportation around South Sulawesi is on land or at sea.
Rent a car
The best way to travel around the mainland of South Sulawesi is to rent a car. You can do it from Traveloka Indonesia, and the best office in Makassar is TRAC Rental Mobil. There are other rental car companies here or there, but this one is the best and the safest.
Local transport- public transport, travel companies, shared taxis
But, if you don’t want to rent a car, you have to get used to the local transportation. There are several bus terminals with minibusses to some destinations in South Sulawesi, including Rantepao. But they are oriented to serve locals, not tourists, so if you want to reach some point of interest, you still have to find a local taxi.
Another way of transportation is to use a local travel company. They arrange buses or minibuses to certain destinations, including Rantepao or Benteng in Selayar Island (passing through Bira). These buses are luxurious and much more expensive.
Finally, if you are a few people together, a much better option is to find a shared taxi. For example, this is the best way to go to Bira from Makassar- there is a taxi station in Malengkeri where you can find such a taxi. The price they give is 250,000 IDR per person or 1,000,000 IDR for the whole car.
By boat
If you want to reach Pabbiring Islands, you have to go to one of the Makassar ports in front of Fort Rotterdam or around 99 Dome Mosque. Here you can find many boat captains offer boat trips to islands like Samalona, Kodingareng Keke, and others.
Traveling to Selayar Island is easy too: if you don’t want to travel by domestic plane, you can travel by bus (arranged by travel company), or by shared taxi to Bira. From Bira, you can take the regular ferry to Pamatata, and from Pamatata, there are always a lot of waiting shared taxis to Benteng. From Benteng, you can easily find local taxis to various points on the island, or local boat trips to the nearby islands.
If you want to reach Taka Bonerate- it is more complicated. Again, you have to start from Benteng, but it depends on the season. There are local boats from Port Pattumbukang in Selayar Island (you can reach it with a shared taxi from Benteng) but only between October and April. Otherwise, you have to travel from island to island by local boats from other directions, with uncertain schedules. Or, you can easily find a modern speed boat from Benteng to Taka Bonerate at any time but at a very expensive price (from 10,000,000 IDR and above).
Accommodation
You have a lot of options for spending the night in South Sulawesi, but not everywhere. There are a lot of hotels, homestays, and guesthouses in Makassar and Rantepao, from budget to splurge. You can easily find them on Booking or Agoda.
Check for hotels in South Sulawesi on Booking!
Check for hotels in South Sulawesi on Agoda!
You can also find accommodations in other, minor destinations, including Bira, Benteng, and more. However, many of them can’t be found on Booking or Agoda but only on Google or some local websites. And for some cheap hotels, even if you find them on the big platforms, what you see is often different than reality.
The problem is that in destinations like Rammang Rammang for example, it can be difficult to find a place to sleep. Rammang Rammang is more and more popular but guesthouses and hotels are too few. You’d better contact them in advance, however, most of them can’t be found anywhere else but only on Google, without contact information.
Bira is much better- there are a lot of hotels and guesthouses. You even don’t need a reservation in advance- many of these properties are often empty, waiting for guests.
Benteng in Selayar Island is different- there are only a few hotels. But since Benteng is far from popularity yet, hotels are usually empty. Finally, there are a few resorts in Selayar- you can find them on Google, they have contact information and you can contact them in advance.
Food
Concerning the local food, it is a version of Indonesian food that can be found in most places of the country. Meals like Nasi Goreng or Ayam Goreng (rice with chicken or noodles with chicken) are traditional in the whole of Indonesia and Malaysia, including South Sulawesi.
Local food has a strong Muslim influence. You can’t find pork, even in Tana Toraja, where most of the population is Christian. But there are still some local variations that can be found almost only in this part of Indonesia. You can also notice that fish is very prominent in the coastal areas, including Makassar.
Finally, keep in mind that many dishes are spicy, although as not as spicy as in some other regions in Indonesia.
Internet, communication, SIM cards
You would definitely need communication and internet in South Sulawesi- at least for navigation, finding necessary information about a hotel, ferry schedules, etc. Without mobile internet, you can only depend on wifi that can be found in your hotel room, some restaurants, and malls (in Makassar). But outside, you would be like in the 90s of the last century.
So, I would recommend buying a local SIM card. You can’t buy it from Sultan Hasanuddin Airport- there is no SIM card store in the airport yet. And don’t buy it from a small local store- it almost certainly wouldn’t work! Instead, go to the central office of the mobile operator and buy it there! Or, just buy e-SIM card in advance.
There are several mobile operators in Indonesia- Telkomsel, XL Axiata, and Smarfren. They offer various packages, from 6 to 60 GB for 1 month, for only 2 to 9 USD. The best is 60 GB/30 days for IDR 125 000 by Smarfren. For more information, see here.
Anyway, keep in mind that in the wild places, you will be completely “out of the world” without any mobile signals.
Safety
In general, South Sulawesi is a safe place. There are no wars, unrest, or high crime rates. But, as everywhere in the world, there are some things you have to consider (yes, there is no 100% safe place in this world!).
The locals in South Sulawesi are friendly and warm. But in the more populated areas like Makassar, there are some minor crime activities like pickpocketing or scams. So, when you go to some crowded places, better do what most Indonesians do- put your backpack on your front (or at least on your shoulder).
Some people may look at foreigners (non-Asians) as “moving money machines”, so hide well your valuables. When you take out your camera or mobile for photos or videos, always attach it to your neck- someone could easily grab it from your hand while riding a motorcycle.
Beware of scams- always go to normal offices or shops for everything, and never trust or buy anything important from people on the street! And don’t trust them if they approach you first to “help” you with something!
This is South Sulawesi- an exotic land with incredibly beautiful nature and friendly people. It is a land worth visiting and exploring, with great geographical features, still quite authentic and off-the-beaten. And this was our basic guide to South Sulawesi, with the hope to help you plan your adventure there and complete it full of great impressions and nice memories!
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