Traveling in Tajikistan- an Essential Guide with information, facts, and tips

This is one of the farthest countries from the ocean. A country, mostly consisting of high mountains, deep valleys, snowy peaks, and vast plains. This is Tajikistan, located in the southeastern corner of Central Asia, an off-the-beaten-path land with gorgeous nature and unique culture. Let’s go deeply into details about traveling in Tajikistan, with tips and facts on how to travel there, where to go, what to see and try, and more.

Geographical overview

Tajikistan is not among the most popular travel destinations, but it is not due to the lack of amazing places to see, try, and enjoy. It is located in the mountain areas of Central Asia, in the mountains of “The Roof Of The World” (sometimes called “The Greater Ranges” of Asia, including the Himalayas, Tibet, Karakoram, Hindukush, Pamir, Tian Shan, and more). The mountain range that dominates the territory of Tajikistan is Pamir. Read this guide about traveling in Tajikistan with all the basic infor you need to know!

Pamir

Pamir (or The Pamirs) consists of several mountain chains, joined in a common watershed that connects the Tian Shan Mountains in the north with Hindukush and Karakoram Mountains in the south. In the south, Pamir borders the Panj (Pamir) River and the Wakhjir Pass connects the Hindu Kush. To the west, the mountains of Pamir gradually mix and disappear into the Central Asian great plains. To the east, the border is Tashkurgan and Yarkant rivers.

The border in the north is not clearly defined- some sources determine Kyzyl Su and Wakhsh River, a tributary to Amudarya, and Taukmurun (close to Irkeshtam) Pass connecting Pamir with Tian Shan, excluding the Pamir-Alay Range from Pamir and classifying it to Tian Shan. Other sources include the Pamir-Alay Range to the Pamirs and determine the Syrdarya River (and Ferghana Valley) as its northern border.

The highest peak of Pamir is Mt Kongur Shan (7649 m), located in the Eastern Pamir. Other notable high peaks include Mt Muztag Ata (7509 m), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495 m), Lenin Peak (7134 m), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), and more.

Today, Pamir is shared between Tajikistan, China, Kyrgyzstan, and small portions of it- with Afghanistan and Uzbekistan (depending on whether the Pamir-Alay Range is considered a part of Pamir or not). The largest portion of the Pamirs is located in Tajikistan. This is the main natural feature of the country.

Overall geography of Tajikistan

Tajikistan is a small country, one of the smallest in Central Asia, along with Kyrgyzstan. Dushanbe is its capital, and usually the main starting point for exploring the area. Geographically, Tajikistan can be divided into western and eastern parts, without a clear physical “border” between them, but a certain administrative border can be accepted for a better vision.

This is the border between the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (Gorno-Badakhshanskaya Avtonomnaya Oblast- GBAO), and the rest of Tajikistan.

So, let’s get into the details.

Western Tajikistan

The western part of Tajikistan is generally lower. It is spread over a terrain, divided into three smaller physical regions- two lower valleys and a mountain range that separates them in the middle, running from west to east.

The valley in the north is Ferghana Valley, where several rivers join into the Syrdarya River. Only a part of Ferghana Valley belongs to Tajikistan, the rest is shared between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

The valley in the south is the valley of the Amudarya River. Only the north portion of this valley (and its sub-valleys) belongs to Tajikistan. The rest belongs to Afghanistan and Uzbekistan.

The mountain range in the middle is the Pamir-Alay Range. Again, not all of the range belongs to Tajikistan, but only a part of it, and the rest is shared between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Actually, here the borders between these countries are very complex, and there are even some small exclaves of one country locked inside another.

Administratively, it is divided into four regions: Ferghana Valley, Zeravshan Valley, Karategin (the latter two occupying mostly the subranges of Pamir-Alay), and Khatlon in the south. The capital Dushanbe is located in Karategin.

Dushanbe

Dushanbe is the largest city in Tajikistan and the main starting point for exploring the country. It is located in the valley of the Kofarnihon River, a tributary of Amudarya. The city itself is worth exploring before you start your adventure deep in the country. I would recommend to plan at least two days for that.

Although Dushanbe itself is not too old, it is established in an area with ancient history, on one of the routes of the Silk Road. This history is well-exposed in the two main museums of the city, and traces of it can also be seen in some nearby points of interest like Hissor Fortress and more.

Today, Dushanbe is a fast-developing modern city with splendid parks, monuments, and new gorgeous buildings (here you can feel the Chinese influence). But at the same time, it still keeps the local traditional culture and atmosphere. Especially for the first-timers, exploring Dushanbe is a great opportunity to dive and get used to the reality of Tajikistan, its people, and their culture.

Ferghana Valley

This is the northernmost part of Tajikistan- a protruding territory, surrounded by Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan, only in the south connected to the rest of the country.
Ferghana Valley is an important destination on the Silk Road routes, and it has a long and rich history. Three nations and their cultures, all of them with ancient inheritance mix here- Tajiks, Uzbeks, and Kyrgyz.

The main center and the largest city in the Tajik portion of the Ferghana Valley is Khujand. It is a vibrant city full of local culture and traditions, with a lot of places to see, including some splendid marvels like Arbob Palace, the Mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin, and more.

Other towns with historical and cultural significance are Isfara and Istaravshan.

Pamir-Alay Range

This range rises in the west from the great plains of Central Asia, deep in Uzbekistan and even Turkmenistan. In Tajikistan, it is divided into several sub-ranges.

The northernmost of them is Turkestan (with the highest peak Skalisty (5621 m). South of it is the central subrange-Alay (with the highest peak Tandykul (5544 m). Another subrange is Zarafshan which branches westward from Alay Range, south of Turkestan (with the highest peak Chimtarga (5489 m). The southernmost subrange is the Hissor Range (with the highest peak Alpomish (4662 m), rising north of Dushanbe.

Again, only a part of the Pamir-Alay Range belongs to Tajikistan. The best thing to do in this area is mostly hiking. There are some beautiful valleys between the subranges, with picturesque villages and stunning views. The largest of these valleys is Zarafshan Valley, where you can visit the town of Panjakent, with its ancient ruins.

The north of Amudarya Valley

This area borders the Amudarya River in the south and consists of several valleys divided by low ridges running from southwest to northeast (eventually connected to the Pamirs). Dushanbe is located in the north part of this area but there are several other points of interest like the towns of Kulob and Bokhtar (Qurghonteppa).

This area is mostly known as the place with most remains from the pre-Islamic periods, including some Buddhist ruins. In recent years, it suffered the most from the civil war from 1992 to 1997. But now it is a peaceful place, and new road constructions connect it to the eastern part of Tajikistan.

Eastern Tajikistan- Gorno-Badakhshanskaya Avtonomnaya Oblast (GBAO)

This is a highland. Much higher, much wilder, and much harsher than the western part of Tajikistan. Physically, it rises gradually from the west and is surrounded by Kyrgyzstan, China, and Afghanistan. And there is one thing that dominates the geography in the whole area- Pamir.

Pamir in GBAO

In GBAO, the Pamir consists of several ranges, divided by valleys and wide open high-altitude plains.

In the north, the border of Tajikistan in GBAO runs on the main summit of the Trans-Alay Range, with the highest point being Lenin Peak (7134 m). Southwest are the Peter I and Academy of Science Ranges, with the highest point Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495 m), which is the highest point in the whole of Tajikistan.

Next to it is the Yazgulem Range with the highest peak Independence (6974 m), and one of the largest mountain glaciers in the world- Fedchenko. Further south, bordering Afghanistan and the Panj River is the Shakhdara Range, with the highest peak Karl Marx (6726 m).

All of these ranges get a bit softer and lower in the extreme east of GBAO, with wider high-altitude plains between them. Anyway, here the highest peaks still almost reach 6000 m altitude.

In general, this is a harsh land, with severe winter, and sparse vegetation- even the alpine grass is sparse, and most of the mountains are almost completely naked. There is something green only in the valleys. The high altitude vastness here is breathtaking. And here you can also find some of the most beautiful lakes in Central Asia, like Lake Karakul.

Panj River and Wakhan

In the south, GBAO and Pamir border Afghanistan and the Hindu Kush Mountains. Historically, this area is known as Wakhan- one of the high-altitude destinations and crossings on the ancient Silk Road. It doesn’t have clear physical boundaries but in general, it includes the upper valley of Panj River and its tributaries, and it is the area where Pamir and Hindu Kush meet.

At its easternmost end, it even “touches” the Karakoram and Himalaya ranges. In other words, this is the area where the highest mountain ranges on the Earth meet, known as the “Pamir Knot”.

Today, the area south of the Panj River belongs to Afghanistan and is known as Wakhan Corridor. The Tajik portion of Wakhan is known as Wakhan District.

Wakhan is not only a land of majestic mountains and gorgeous valleys (great for hiking) but it reveals the unique local culture of the Wakhani- a branch of the Pamiri people (they speak dialects of the Tajik language), as well as remnants from the distant past related to the Silk Road trade and the ancient empires in the region.

History of Tajikistan

Tajikistan has a long history. It has a very special location- in the middle of Eurasia, between the Western and the Eastern world, in an area where the plains of Central Asia meet with the highest mountain ranges in the world. Here is one of the Silk Road routes. Various civilizations have met and established their kingdoms and empires, including or dividing the land of Tajikistan. All of them have left traces that can be found in ruins of forts, in museums, and the modern culture.

So, let’s take a look at the history of Tajikistan, and make it simple by dividing it into periods.

Prehistorical period (unknown to 550 BC)

The land of modern Tajikistan has been inhabited by various ethnic groups belonging mostly to the Indo-European and Turkic families. There is no trace of clearly identified kingdoms or empires, except for some small local states, but there are a lot of remains from some discovered ancient cultures that can be found in the museums of Tajikistan.

Achaemenid Persian period (550 to 330 BC)

Around 550 BC, Cyrus II of Persia conquered most of the land of Tajikistan. During that period, the people of this area were in important positions in the empire.

Hellenistic period (330 to 30 BC)

After the conquest of Alexander II The Great, the land of Tajikistan, as well as the whole of the Persian Empire became a part of the Macedon Empire. It quickly disintegrated into smaller kingdoms and empires, and this area was a part of the Seleucid Empire, then a part of the Greco-Bactrian Kingdom. This kingdom also disintegrated around 90 BC and in 30 BC was replaced with a new empire- the Kushan Empire.

Kushan period (30 BC to 410 AD)

The new empire was created by the Yuezhi and Tokhari people. It stretched from the southern Tian Shan mountains to North India. During this period, Buddhism was introduced in this land, and we can see its traces in destinations like Wakhan Valley. Some important forts that can be seen today also date from the time of the Kushan Empire.

In the second half of this period, the land of Tajikistan was divided between the Sasanid and Kushan empires.

Sasanid-Hephtalit-Gokturk period (410 to 710)

After the fall of the Kushan Empire, the Sasanids briefly controlled the land of Tajikistan but were replaced by the Hephtalites. And in 560, a new power came from the north- the Turks that created Gok-Turk Khaganate. About 100 years later the Turks disputed the land with the Chinese Tang Empire.

Arab Caliphate period (710 to 867)

In 710 the Muslim armies of the Arabs conquered the land of Tajikistan. The Caliphate was ruled first by the Umayads, and from 750 by the Abbasids who created a centralized and stable empire.

Samanid period (867 to 999)

From 819 the Abbasid Caliphate also started to disintegrate. One of the new empires that separated from the caliphate was the Samanid Empire. Around 867 the Samanids gained control over most of Tajikistan. One of the rulers from this period was Ismoil Somoni, who is considered one of the most important historical figures of Tajikistan, and even the national currency of the country is named after him- somoni.

Qarakhanid-Kwarezmid period (999 to 1218)

After the fall of the Samanid Empire, two new empires emerged in Central Asia. They had a Turkic origin. The Qarakhanids reigned over the land of Tajikistan until 1211 and then were replaced briefly by the Kwarezmids.

Mongol period (1218 to 1370)

Soon the Mongols came. They destroyed the Kwarezmid Empire and conquered the whole of Central Asia, including the land of Tajikistan. However, soon after the death of Genghis Khan, the Mongol Empire also started to disintegrate into smaller empires and kingdoms. One of them was the Timurid Empire.

Timurid period (1370 to 1506)

This new empire was established by Timur, known as Tamerlan. The Timurids conquered a large territory, from modern Turkey to India, and Tajikistan was included in their empire. However, it declined too, and new powers emerged in the region.

New Turkic period (1506 to 1740)

This was a period of smaller Turkic states. A few kingdoms (khanates) were established in Central Asia and partly included various portions of today’s Tajikistan- Shaybanids and Astrakhanids, who established the khanates of Bukhara and Kokand. At the end of this period, Tajikistan was divided between these two khanates.

Iranian-Bukharan period (1740 to 1868)

During this period the land of Tajikistan was occupied and divided between two new powers- the Afsharids of Iran and the new Emirate of Bukhara. But soon new invaders from the north arrived.

Early Russian period (1868 to 1920)

The Russians started their conquest of Central Asia and in 1868 spread their empire over the land of Tajikistan. They created a vassal entity called Russian Turkestan. However, they still preserved the former emirates- Bukhara and Kokand, under the Russian Tsar’s control.

Soviet period (1920 to 1991)

After the Communist revolution in 1917, a civil war broke out around the whole of Russia. In 1920 the former Russian Turkestan and its emirates were removed and after four years of chaos, the Tajik Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (later renamed Tajik SSR) was created in 1924. It was a part of the USSR until 1991.

Republic of Tajikistan (1991 until today)

In 1991, with the collapse of the Soviet Union, Tajikistan also proclaimed its independence. However, the country quickly fell into a civil war for 5 years. This civil war caused a lot of devastation. It ended in 1997 and from that year Tajikistan was gradually restored. Today it proceeds its development and now is a peaceful and safe country.

Culture

When we talk about the culture in Tajikistan, in general, we have to divide it into two main areas- Tajiki culture in the west, and the culture of Pamir. The people in these two regions have a lot in common, but due to the specific geographical and historical factors, there are some differences.

Tajik culture in the west

Tajiks that live in the west of Tajikistan are the majority of Tajikistan’s population. They belong to the Persian ethnic and language family. Their language is closely related to the Persian language, and their culture, traditions, and lifestyle have a strong influence from Iran.

But of course, there are some differences. In general, they are Muslims but their Islamic religion is not as strict as in Iran or Afghanistan. You can see it in their behavior- men’s dress code is totally “secular”, and bearded men are rare. Yes, many women put headscarves on their heads but it is more related to their unique local tradition rather than to religion.

So, today the Tajiks just live a normal modern life and have much stronger influence from China than from the neighboring Islamic countries. It is especially obvious in the capital Dushanbe- currently, there is an intensive building and renewing process in the whole city, gradually turning it into a modern metropolis in Chinese style.

Of course, it doesn’t mean that the Tajiks are like “modern Westerners”. They are still relatively conservative and keep their traditions. For example, there is some form of “nightlife” in Dushanbe, but don’t expect something like what is in Europe. You can also see it in their clothing, especially for women- they just normally cover their bodies with clothes that are often traditional for them.

Pamiri Tajiks

The Tajiks in Pamir are a bit different. First, they speak different dialects than the Tajiks in the West and consider themselves as a different ethnic group who live not only in Tajikistan but also partly in Afghanistan and China.

They speak several different dialects that belong to the Eastern Iranian language group and are different than the language spoken in the West (although still close). These dialects include Wakhi, Munji, Ishkashimi, Sanglechi, Yidgha, and Zebaki, as well as the Shughni-Rushani group. And the classical Tajik language is their “lingua franca”.

Of course, their lifestyle is very different than the Tajiks in the west, mostly due to the geographical environment that they live in- the high mountains. Until only recently, they were completely “far from the civilization and the world”, living in harsh conditions, adapted for survival. Things like electricity, mobile networks, etc. were unknown to them only until the recent few years. They live in a very sparsely populated area, “in the middle of nowhere”, in small villages that consist of several white one-storey mudbrick houses.

Only recently, due to the growing attention of adventurous travelers to the epic Pamir Highway, as well as the Chinese intention to build a new road connecting Dushanbe with the Karakoram Highway in China, the Pamiris “entered” modern life. Now there is more electricity than before, there is partial mobile coverage and even some slow internet here and there.

Pamiris became aware of the growing tourism and started to open a lot of guest houses, to study English, and to become “modern” in every aspect of daily life. And they are still very hospitable people, living a hard lifestyle but happy to introduce their magnificent land to outsiders.

How to explore Tajikistan- best things to do

So, in general, there are two main directions for exploring Tajikistan. The first one is focusing on culture and history. It is oriented mostly to the capital Dushanbe and the western part of the country. And the second one is adventurous, oriented to the east, the magnificent Pamir Mountains.

Explore the capital Dushanbe

Dushanbe is usually the first stop in Tajikistan for every traveler who comes there by plane. And, like every capital, it presents “the face” of the country, where you can get the first impressions of life here. You can get familiar with the lifestyle, traditions, and mentality of the local people and this is the best place to get used to the new cultural reality.

So, when you arrive in Dushanbe, don’t be hurry to proceed to the next destination. Plan at least two days for staying here. Roam in the streets of the city. Visit some local markets. Go to the splendid parks in the center. Explore the two main history museums- the Museum of Antiquities, and the National Museum of Tajikistan. Make a short trip to the nearby Hisor Fortress. And if there are some cultural events, don’t skip them!

Besides, if you are going to visit the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region and come from a visa-free country, you must visit the Department of Visas and Registration (OVIR) to get a permit (unless you obtain it from a Tajikistan embassy/consulate in another country, however, not all of them issue this permit).

Dive into the culture and history

The best area to do this is in the west. This is because the western part of Tajikistan, which is much lower and more populated, is much more closely related to the thousands of years of Central Asia history, its civilizations, kingdoms, and empires, and their influence, while the land of Pamir, due to its remoteness and harsh conditions has always remained isolated from the main course of history in the region.

So, again, you can start from Dushanbe, but later you can go to other centers of culture and history like Khujand in the Ferghana Valley, Isfara, Istarafshan, or Kulob in the south. These places are part of a larger cultural region that also includes most of the neighboring Uzbekistan (with jewels like Bukhara and Samarkand), southern Kazakhstan, parts of Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, and Afghanistan, as well as the Uyghur culture of Xinjiang, China.

Travel on Pamir Highway

This is the best and most popular way to explore the Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan. Pamir Highway is a famous route that starts in Afghanistan, proceeds through Dushanbe, Khorog, and Murghab in Tajikistan, and ends in Osh, Kyrgyzstan (or vice versa, depending on your preferred direction).

The sights and impressions only on this road alone are fantastic, but you can also try various detours to some neighboring places of interest, starting from the nearest points on the route.

Wakhan

Wakhan is one of the special areas alongside the Pamir Highway, or more precisely, its “Wakhan version”. While the main route of the Pamir Highway partially follows the valley of the Panj River and the border with Afghanistan, from Khorog it crosses directly to the middle of the Pamir Plateau and the village of Alichur.

However, another road proceeds following the Panj River from Khorog, passing through Ishkashim and the villages behind it. It is an area full of majestic views of the Pamir and Hindu Kush Mountains, ancient fortresses, and the culture of the local Wakhan people (a branch of the Pamiris).

So, traveling on this version of the Pamir Highway can bring you additional cultural and historical impressions of the epic adventures in the mountains.

Hiking in Pamir

For those who like hiking, Pamir Highway has a lot to offer. And if you are enough fit, you definitely must try some hiking trails (or sometimes even without a trail), to feel the beauty of Pamir more closely.

If you choose the Wakhan version of the Pamir Highway, only reaching some of the fortresses along the road already involves hiking since they are located at least 300-400 m above the bottom of the valley. Besides the mystery of ancient history, these spots reveal breathtaking views of the valley below and the mountains of Afghanistan. And if you have time, you can proceed further.

And from the other section of the Pamir Highway, between Khorog, Alichur, Murghab, and Lake Karakul, which runs mostly on the plain valley of the Pamir Plateau, you can also always choose a point to stop and hike on a side valley, on a summit, or a local route to a lake, etc.

Enjoy the silent vast spaces of the Pamir Plateau

There are some places on the Earth where you can stay alone, in the middle of nowhere, in complete silence, far from civilization and the human world- only you, the Earth, and the space above you. This is an amazing experience and you can try it here, on the Pamir Highway.

Although it is called a “highway”, don’t imagine a real, busy “highway” with a lot of cars, trucks, and buses. You can stay at a certain point on this route, in the middle of the road, completely alone, and there can be nobody to see you for hours!

And this is on the road only. What can we say if you go to a side valley, without a road, where humans can go once a year, or even in a century?

Live with the local Pamiris

Another opportunity that you should not miss on the Pamir Highway is to spend some time with the local Pamiris. Many of them can open their houses for guests. When you enter inside, you can see what a traditional Pamiri home looks like, its rooms and decorations, and most importantly- its hospitable inhabitants.

Although many of them can’t speak English yet, you can still get an impression of their lifestyle. You can try their food, you can watch (and even help them) how they care for their livestock, and of course, you can enjoy some local gatherings, with music, and joy.

More of the Pamirs, beyond Pamir Highway

Of course, the route of the Pamir Highway can’t cover the whole of the Pamirs. There are a lot of points, sometimes extremely hard to reach, much wilder and remote. Examples are Bartang Valley, Sarez Lake, the foot of Mt Ismoil Somoni (the highest peak in Tajikistan), or the source area of the Wakhan and Pamir rivers.

Another, much easier area to access is Pamir-Alay Range and its valleys. Here is Zarafshan Valley and the ancient town of Panjakent. But besides these, there are a lot of other valleys and hiking trails.

Tajikistan packing list- what to bring

It depends on what you are going to do, and in which season. Are you going to explore the Pamirs or do you plan to stay only in Dushanbe and in the western lowlands? If you travel on the Pamir Highway, do you plan some hiking or not? What type of transportation will you use?

Of course, no matter where will you go, what you will do, and in which season, you must always remember the most important: documents, money, a bank card, and all electronics- for navigation, communication, and beautiful photos and videos.

Gear for traveling in Dushanbe and in the lowlands

This is the easier part of Tajikistan. In general, the weather is dry throughout the whole year. There are rains sometimes in the spring, summer, and fall, even in winter, and occasionally- snow in winter.

But since you are going to explore mostly culture and history, in other words- mostly human-made sights, you don’t need any special gear. Besides the necessary things mentioned above, you can just bring your normal things for the urban trip (like on a trip to cities in Europe, southern Canada, USA, etc.)- normal clothes, shoes, toiletry, probably an umbrella, and something else that you have got used to bring.

Gear for traveling on Pamir Highway

Now this is something different. What you will bring very depends on the transportation that you are going to use on this route. It also depends on whether will you go hiking or not. And again- the season.

First, the Pamir Highway runs in high-altitude areas. Even in summer, the weather is cool there, and it can be cold and even snowy sometimes. So, you should bring some warm clothes, including a jacket. And if you go there in a colder season, you have to prepare for cold winter conditions (a winter coat, winter gloves, a winter hat, etc.) Keep in mind that the village of Alichur is considered one of the coldest places on Earth, with temperatures that can drop below -50C in winter!

In summer, you can wear just three-season hiking shoes or even summer hiking shoes. Yes, even if you don’t go hiking, still bring hiking shoes (or boots) because even the road itself is raw and rugged.

I would also advise bringing a sleeping bag with a temperature of comfort of at least -5C. Yes, if you don’t go camping, most probably you will not use it, but if you travel by hitchhiking and shared taxis, and remain “in the middle of nowhere” without a car in the dark, you’d better be prepared. And to be more sure that you are protected from rain, bring a tent or at least a tarp or a bivy. I talk about summertime. Winter is a different story- you have to be prepared for polar conditions!

In addition, bring sunscreen. Sun is very strong here, in every season. And for winter, bring sunglasses (in summer they are not mandatory but can be useful too).

Gear for hiking in Pamir

Yes, you most probably will do some hiking while you travel on the Pamir Highway, or even far from this route but still in the Pamirs. So, if you go there in summer, again, prepare your shoes- summer hiking shoes or three-season hiking shoes. In addition, bring hiking poles (of course, this is not necessary, if your style is hiking without poles).

But if you go climbing (mountaineering), that’s different. You have to bring all your climbing gear. This is a special experience that you would usually do as a part of a climbing expedition, and you should be trained for that. There are enough peaks for climbing in Pamir, so, if you are a climber, you can find some good opportunities.

Camping gear

Most probably, you will stay in local guesthouses or local homes. But you can also go camping. Camping “in the middle of nowhere”, under the vastness of space is a unique experience.

So, in this case, bring your camping gear- a good tent, a sleeping bag (at least -5C comfort), a sleeping pad (Pamir is rugged and stony, there is not too much soft and green grass), a cooking set, a headlamp (or just a lamp for camping), and enjoy! In addition, in such cases, I would also recommend a solar panel to charge your electronics “far from civilization”.

Useful tips

So, let’s get into some important details that you can consider when you plan your Tajikistan itinerary.

Visa policy of Tajikistan

Currently, Tajikistan visitors can be divided into three groups:

• Visa-free (for 30, 90 days, or unlimited time): all citizens from the EU, Russia, Uzbekistan, Mongolia, Australia, Saudi Arabia, Canada, USA, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, Indonesia, Japan, South Korea, and more.
• e-Visa: citizens from the UK, China, India, Iran, Pakistan, Vietnam, and some countries in Africa, South America, and Central America.
• Approval in advance: visitors from most countries in Africa, also Turkey, Iraq, Syria, Myanmar, and the neighboring Afghanistan.

For more details, see here Visa policy of Tajikistan.

GBAO Permit

This is a special permit that you must obtain if you want to enter the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. There are several checkpoints at the key locations on the main roads and if you don’t present this permit, they will not allow you to proceed.

We should be happy if our country is “visa-free”. But not in this case. Citizens that are required to obtain an e-Visa can easily get a GBAO permit in one application- “e-Visa+GBAO permit”. But if you are “visa-free”, you can’t get only a GBAO permit online. Instead, when you arrive in Dushanbe, you have to visit the Department for Visas and Registration and get the permit from there.

Fortunately, this is relatively fast, they can prepare it within less than an hour (but not always, so be prepared). Another way is to get the permit from a Tajik embassy or consulate, but not every embassy or consulate offers this service. For more information, check here.

Currency

Tajikistani Somoni (TJS). Currently, 1 TJS = 0,095 USD, or 1 USD = 10.58 TJS. These numbers make everything relatively easy- just add a zero after a dollar price, and you can approximately get the right value.

Electric socket

Plugs: type C and F (both with 2 round pins, like in Europe). Voltage: 220 V/50Hz

Language

There are two official languages in Tajikistan- Tajik and Russian. Both languages use the Cyrillic alphabet. In addition, the Pamiris speak various Eastern Iranian dialects. They belong to the group of Persian languages and they are quite close to the Tajik language but still, they are considered separate languages. However, the Pamiris also use Tajik and Russian as “lingua franca”.

Currently, most people can’t speak English and those who can are mostly young people. If you know Russian, it would be a big advantage but if not, you may need a translator. And with the poor internet in Pamir, Google Translate would be difficult to use.

Transportation

The main gateway for those who arrive in Tajikistan by air is Dushanbe Airport. It has flight connections to various cities in Central Asia, and Russia, as well as destinations like Istanbul, Dubai, Frankfurt, Tehran, and more. Another international airport is Khujand, but with more limited options, mainly to Russia and Urumqi in China.

Check for flights to Dushanbe!

There are several more airports, but they are only domestic. However, if you travel in winter, they are the only option to cross the high mountains since the roads are usually closed.

Once you arrive in Dushanbe, Khujand, or enter Tajikistan on land from a neighboring country, you can travel only on the local roads. There are railways but currently only for international trains to the other countries in Central Asia and Russia.

Traveling on the roads of Tajikistan

The road network of Tajikistan is in relatively poor condition although currently is quickly improving by the Chinese investment. In general, the roads in and around Dushanbe, as well as most of the western part of Tajikistan are much better. There are many newly paved roads in excellent condition.

However, in the east, in the high mountains of Pamir, the roads are still rough. There is a project (again by China-Tajikistan collaboration) to renew the road connecting Dushanbe with Xinjiang in China, which includes a significant section of the Pamir Highway- from Dushanbe through Khorog and Murghab to Qulma Pass (the border with China) and beyond. Currently (as of summer in 2024) the Pamir Highway is renewed only from Dushanbe to Kalaikhum (the southern version of the road- through Kulob).

From Kalaikhum to Khorog the road is horrible- unpaved and extremely dusty due to the constant traffic of heavy trucks and jeeps. The construction work already has begun there too but currently is still in the initial stage. Only after Khorog, the road is better (at least not too dusty) but still uneven, with asphalt dating from the early Soviet era. And in large sections, the asphalt is already completely missing.

Domestic on-land transportation

There is public transportation in the capital Dushanbe- buses, vans (minibuses called “marshrutka”), and taxis. And there are some public marshrutkas between the main cities in the western part of Tajikistan.

However, in the east, public transportation is completely absent. So, what are your options if you want to travel on the Pamir Highway (and on the other roads in the area are not different)?

Rent a car

It is a good option but quite expensive for a solo traveler. You can expect something like 1000-1500 USD for a week. Yes, you can find a cheaper car but I would not recommend it- the roads are in very harsh condition and you really need a GOOD car- the risk of damage “in the middle of nowhere” is high (besides, the fuel is in poor condition too). So, this option is proper for a group of travelers.

By tour company or hiring a driver

This is another expensive option but at least is much safer. Again, if you are a group of travelers, it is relatively affordable. However, if you travel on the Pamir Highway, drivers can take you only to the border with Kyrgyzstan. From there you have to arrange another driver with a car to proceed further.

By shared taxis

This is much cheaper. However, in this case, you still depend on other passengers unless you are ready to pay more. Besides, these taxis are often unreliable- sometimes you can find one, but sometimes not.

On some roads, the locals themselves arrange “public transport” as a way to do business and it can be another option too but again- it is highly unreliable. They don’t make schedules.

By hitchhiking

If you don’t have your own transportation and travel independently, it will be your only option. Besides, keep in mind the Pamir is a very sparsely populated place and you have to be ready to wait for hours- not for a car to pick you up, but even for a car to pass at all!

Usually, when you stop a car, the driver would expect you to pay for that. But because it is a “poputnaya mashina” (“passing car”), it would be much cheaper.

By motorcycle or bicycle

This is a great and adventurous way of travel, and in recent years it has become more and more popular on the Pamir Highway. There are motorcycle rental companies in Dushanbe but their prices are relatively high, so it is an expensive option.

The best would be to travel by your own motorcycle, bicycle, or car (caravan). But of course, if come from far away, in this case, Tajikistan should be only one of the destinations on your long-distance, trans-continental journey.

Accommodation

As in most countries in the world, there are various hotels in Dushanbe and the other larger cities and towns, especially in the “more touristy ones” (like Khorog). They vary from splurge to budget, and you can easily find them on Booking or Agoda. Other, quite similar options are the hostels (they are great places to find other travelers and share each other’s stories), guesthouses, and Airbnb.

Check for hotels in Tajikistan on Booking!

Check for hotels in Tajikistan on Agoda!

However, deep in Pamir the situation is different. Beyond Khorog, you can’t find anything on Booking or Agoda. You can see a lot of local guesthouses (and even hotels) on Google Maps but they present only a phone number (with usually unable to speak English host), if at all.

But you don’t need to worry about it. In fact, you don’t need to book in advance. The local guesthouses are not crowded, even in summer (the high season). So, you can just go, and ask the local host, and even if there is no free bed (highly unlikely), he will ask his neighbor to welcome you. In recent years, many locals turned their homes into guesthouses, and the opportunity to sleep in a local traditional Pamiri home is a unique experience.

Food, drinks, and water

Food in Tajikistan is typical for Central Asia. There are a lot of meals that can be also tried in the neighboring countries but in a bit different versions. One thing is common for all of them- since they are all Muslim countries, there is no pork.

One of them is the “plov”. In general, this is fried rice with meat. Meat can be different- lamb, beef, or chicken.

Another meal that you will often eat for breakfast is fried eggs with a sausage. It is served almost everywhere, in every hotel or guesthouse. There are also various types of soups (including the Russian “borsh”), and more. In general, the food is not spicy.

If you like drinks- you can find a lot of Coca-Cola and other gas drinks. There are also natural juices and milk, as well as a lot of “energy drinks” like “Gorilla”, and more. If you like cold (iced) coffee, you can’t find it in Tajikistan.

Expect tea everywhere. Every hotel or guesthouse will offer nice tea (green or black). It is a good way of hydration, especially in the high altitude.

Water

Tap water is not drinkable, so you have to buy bottled water or boil it by yourself. It is the same with the natural water from the mountain streams- some of them are contaminated (and you don’t know which ones) so better always to boil the water.

However, there are “chashmas”- sources with excellent cold drinkable water in some areas like Wakhan. You can find them in the villages and around them.

Internet, communication, SIM cards

Currently, there are several mobile operators in Tajikistan. However, their coverage is still far from perfect- many areas in Pamir are still completely inaccessible to any mobile signal. At least the west of Tajikistan is much better covered. The good news is that this situation is rapidly improving.

The most popular mobile operators are MegaFon and T-Cell. T-Cell has relatively good coverage (with some slow internet) in Wakhan, while MegaFon is better present in Alichur, Murghab, and even Lake Karakul.

So, until only a few years ago, you would be completely off-signal on most of the Pamir Highway. Not only that but there was even no constant electricity. Fortunately, now is different. You can enjoy some slow internet and even 4G in Murghab.

Safety

Tajikistan is now a peaceful country and one of the safest in the whole of Asia. The crime rate is very low, and people are very hospitable and helpful, especially in the deep province. It includes Dushanbe too, but as in every big city, the chance for something like pickpocketing or tourist scam (usually a mild scam) still exists.

If you want to travel on the Pamir Highway and Wakhan along the Afghanistan border, you should not worry too (since Afghanistan is well-known as an infamous country, at least from the news)- there is peace on the other side of the Panj River. No terrorists, no unrest, no threat. Only stunning landscapes and sometimes smiling people who can greet you from the other river bank.

This is in very short what Tajikistan looks like. It is definitely worth exploring and even better- to include it as a part of a longer journey. It is a less known but at the same time an easily reachable destination. And if you have the right expectations and adventurous mindset, you will find and enjoy an unforgettable experience there!

Check some travel books about Tajikistan:

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