Tajikistan is an off-the-beaten-path country, full of fantastic natural landscapes and unique culture. Among travelers, it is mostly known for the Pamir Mountains and the stunning Pamir Highway. When they arrive in Dushanbe, they usually use it only as a starting point for the adventures in the high mountains. But don’t skip Dushanbe, add more travel experience to your adventure, there are certain things to do in this city!
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Basic info about Dushanbe
If you fly from the new air route from Tashkent to Dushanbe, you will see rugged snowy mountains below the plane. This is the mountain system of the Pamir-Alay Range. Beyond it, the aircraft will descend to a hilly and relatively dry lowland, one of the easternmost ends of the Central Asia plains. Here is Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. So, let’s see what this place has to reveal for the travelers.
Some geography
Dushanbe is established in the valley of Kofarnihon River (known as Hisor Valley), at around 800 m altitude. In the north, you can see high snowy mountains- the Hisor Range, a part of the Pamir-Alay. In the east, south, and west, the terrain is hilly, consisting of long and low ridges, and distant extends of the Pamirs and Pamir-Alay, with large rivers flowing between them that eventually join the great Amudarya River in the south.
This lowland is naturally dry, with sparse vegetation but has been cultivated by the local people from ancient times. They have seen this area as a good place to establish their settlements, and many kingdoms and empires have controlled it in various historical periods.
But let’s dive into the history of Dushanbe because only if you are more familiar with it, you be able to explore most of its cultural and historical points of interest and understand better what exactly you are exploring.
Some history
Dushanbe as we know it today is a new and young city. It was “born in 1923. But it doesn’t mean that before that its place was empty and uninhabited. There were traces of human activity for thousands of years, in what is today Dushanbe and the whole of Hisor Valley.
Distant past
Today, you can see traces of early cultures from the 2nd and 1st millennium BC, exposed in the National Museum of Antiquities of Tajikistan and the National Museum of Tajikistan.
Early empires and kingdoms
The first empire- Persia of the Achaemenids conquered this place around 550 BC. Then, they were replaced by the Macedons in 330 BC and the Seleucids in 312 BC. Later, the next kingdoms and empires: Greco-Bactrian Kingdom, the Kushan Empire, the Sasanid Empire, the Hephtalite Empire, and Gokturk Khaganate controlled the Hisor Valley and left their traces too.
Various small towns emerged during these times, in the territory of modern Dushanbe and around it. One important factor united all of the above- the Silk Road. This famous route actually consisted of many versions, and one of them crossed from Pamir through Western Tajikistan, further westward into the plains of Central Asia.
Medieval times
In the 8th century, the Hisor Valley came under the control of the Arabs, and then under the Samanid Empire. Ismoil Somoni, the Samanid’s most prominent ruler brought the golden age for what is today Tajikistan. For this reason, today he is considered one of the most important historical figures in the country, and you can see his monument in the center of Dushanbe. Yet at that time, there was no Dushanbe but only several small towns and villages in this place.
Later, the Samanids were replaced by the Qarakhanids and Kwarezmids, and in the 13th century the Mongols came, then the Timurids after them. Meanwhile, one of the villages in the area gradually turned into a large local market.
The Monday Market town
After the fall of the Timurid Empire, the area was under the control of several local states, including Bukhara Khanate. And the market village became a market town whose market operated on Mondays. In Persian, “Monday” means Dushanbe.
Markets always mean prosperous business for the locals. So, the prosperity brought by this market gradually made Dushanbe from a town to a large city, during the periods of Bukhara and Kokand Khanates, and the Russian Turkestan.
Finally, in 1923, the town officially became a city- the city of Dushanbe, and was proclaimed as the capital of the newly established Tajik SSR. After the independence of Tajikistan, the city became its capital.
Some culture
Today, when you walk in the center of Dushanbe, you can notice the mass construction work that is going on intensively everywhere. New, large, and modern roads, surrounded by grand government and residential buildings quickly emerge and rapidly change the face of the city. Among them is the new Parliament building- a splendid white palace in front of Rudaki Park.
Everything in the center looks modern and glamorous. At the same time, the whole population of Dushanbe is only a million and a half. So, the grand center seems so empty.
But it is not everywhere. There are places in Dushanbe that look completely different, with vibrant markets, local music, fruits, vegetables, spices, fragrances, local food, and more. Here you can feel the real lifestyle of the locals.
They are Tajiks and just like in most big cities in the world, modern life also influenced the culture. By tradition, Tajiks are Muslims but the Islam is very light. Men usually walk without beards, and many women don’t cover their hair. There are only a few mosques, and they are usually silent.
The locals, especially the young people are highly Westernized. But it is still Central Asia, and the citizens of Dushanbe are still conservative to some degree. For example, there is nightlife, but it is far from what you can see in Western Europe, the USA, or Southeast Asia.
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My journey to Dushanbe
I arrived in Dushanbe from Tashkent by plane. My goal was to travel on the Pamir Highway from Dushanbe to Osh. And I decided to explore well my starting point. I stayed in Dushanbe for two days, and during that time, first I arranged the important things- bought a local SIM card, changed money, and got my GBAO permit for entering the Gorno-Badahshan Autonomous Region.
Then I explored the most essential places to see in Dushanbe, including the Hisor Fortress, about 30 km west of the city but highly recommended as a part of its exploration. There was more to see, more minor places of interest, and more activities but even without them, it was enough to get the best impression of Dushanbe.
So, this is what I explored and what more I would explore if I had more time.
Things to do in Dushanbe
Some of these things are related to certain spots, while other things you can try everywhere in Dushanbe.
For first-timers: get familiar with the local life!
This is mostly for those who visit Tajikistan for the first time. Dushanbe is the best place to get first impressions of the country, to feel the local culture, atmosphere, people’s mentality, to get used to the language, shopping, using (and calculating) local money, etc.
As mentioned above, you most probably would need to buy a local SIM card, change money, and get a GBAO permit if you go to Pamir. You can combine it with a stroll around the city. Yes, you can directly go to the tourist points of interest- the museums, the parks, and the monuments, but I would recommend walking around the streets on foot, at least on some of them, and trying to be “like a local”.
Explore the splendid center of Dushanbe- parks, palaces, and monuments
This is the “modern face of Dushanbe”. It was made really magnificent, full of grandiose buildings and parks, and perfect wide roads between them. It looks a bit empty and even surreal. But this is its charm, somehow presenting the pride of the whole country.
You can start your stroll from Ismoil Somoni Monument, dedicated to this symbolic historical figure. Behind it, you can see the map of the Samanid Empire. From there, a straight alley leads to the Monument of Independence, beside the spectacular building of the National Library. This alley symbolizes the road of the nation, from the time of Ismoil Somoni to modern Tajikistan.
Next to the alley is Rudaki Park, dedicated to Rudaki, the first poet who wrote in the Persian language. He has a monument too- a beautiful ark with his statue. And behind the park, you can see a new splendid white building- the Parliament of Tajikistan, scheduled to start functioning in 2024.
Finally, you can go to the northwest section of the park, called Flagpole Park. Here you will see one of the tallest flagpoles in the world, with the flag of Tajikistan. It is raised beside a beautiful artificial lake with more statues and alleys beside it, making the whole picture even more spectacular.
Visit the National Museum of Tajikistan
This is the largest and most representative museum of history and culture in Tajikistan. It is located just north of the Tajikistan Flagpole, as a natural addition to the park around it. The museum is established in a beautiful modern building with unique architecture.
The museum presents the best and most essential of Tajikistan- mostly historical artifacts, from ancient to modern times, but not only. You can also see some art masterpieces, as well as natural and ethnographical artifacts.
The National Museum of Tajikistan has four floors with four sections- Natural History, Ancient and Medieval History, Modern and Contemporary History, and Fine and Applied Arts. The whole interior of the museum is well-marked for visitors to help them follow the right direction for exploring.
Entrance fee: 35 TJS for foreigners, 5 TJS for locals
Working hours: from 8:00 to 18:00.
Deeper in history- visit the National Museum of Antiquities of Tajikistan
If you are more interested in history, you should also visit the National Museum of Antiquities. It is older than the first museum described above and is especially focused on the ancient history of Tajikistan. The artifacts exposed in the museum date from Paleolithic to Islamic times.
Many things that you can see inside are quite similar to those in the National Museum but first, here they are more in quantity. And second, here you can see their originals while the National Museum shows only their replicas. The most prominent example of this is the large leaning Buddha. The original is here, in the Museum of Antiquities while in the National Museum is only its replica.
The museum is smaller, established in a two-floor building with classical architecture, with 15 sections inside.
Entrance fee: 50 TJS for foreigners, 5 TJS for locals
Working hours: Tuesday – Friday: from 9:00 to 17:00; Saturday: from 9:00 to 16:00; Sunday: from 9:00 to 14:00; Monday: closed
Try the Tajik cuisine
Tajik cuisine is quite similar to the other Central Asia cuisines, just with its local versions. Many dishes you can eat in Tajikistan have their versions in Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, and even Xinjiang in China. All of them are highly influenced by Islam, so, in general, you can’t find pork. In addition, Tajik cuisine is not spicy.
Among the most typical and traditional meals, we can mention Plov (rice with meat), Manti (dumplings with meat), Laghman (soup with meat and vegetables), Qurutob (vegetarian- vegetables with cheese in various versions), and more.
You can find these meals in many restaurants and fast food canteens around Dushanbe but the best places to try them are the Chaykhanas. The name “Chaykhana” means “Tea house”, and indeed, the meals will be accompanied by tea.
Some of the best Chaykhanas in Dushanbe include Sharbat and Rohat Chaykhana, and the splendid Navruz Palace. Here you not only can enjoy the local food but you will do it in a building with traditional Tajik architecture for a better vibe.
Stroll around Mehrgon Market
Markets are some of the best places to dive into the local culture and lifestyle. It is because you can see many people, what they sell and buy, how they communicate, and the whole atmosphere. The markets in Central Asia, the Middle East, and many other countries other than the modern West are well-known for their exotic colors and vibes.
So, there is such a market in Dushanbe (in Central Asia it is called “Bazar”, “Bozor”, or another almost similar word). It is a new market, called Mehrgon Market that replaced the old Green Market (today Green Market doesn’t exist anymore).
Mehrgon Market is established in a new large building with some traditional Central Asian architectural elements. And when you enter inside, you will see a large hall full of market life. You even don’t need to go there for the purpose just to buying something, only walking around and watching people and goods is very attractive.
But of course, if you also go shopping there, you will get even deeper into the atmosphere. Besides, the fruits, the vegetables, the spices, the nuts, and many other food and non-food stocks are really worth buying and trying.
Make a trip to Hisor Fortress
Although this is a place out of Dushanbe, it is still considered by many travelers as one of the must-see points of interest, a part of exploring the city. It is located about 30 km west of Dushanbe and since it is a popular attraction, there are a lot of minibuses and taxis used by locals and foreigners.
Hisor Fortress is the main historic spot of Dushanbe. This is an ancient fortress, with almost 3000 years of history. It has been used, destroyed, and restored by many kingdoms and empires during its existence.
Unfortunately, its largest destruction happened in the last century, so today it is almost fully rebuilt again. Too little is known about how the original fortress looked like but its new version was made following the best historical and archaeologic information we know today.
Today, the fortress consists of a wall, an alley with traditional architectural style buildings with souvenir shops, an old building on the top (still not opened), and more elements. There is also a museum with historical and ethnographical artifacts outside.
Hisor Fortress is also a favorite place for weddings and marriage photos, so if you come here at the weekend, you can also enjoy the local wedding traditions.
How to get there
To get to Hisor Fortress, you have to go to the Zarnisor bus stop by Bus No.8 from the center, or by minibus (marshrutka) No. 8 to Zarnisor bus stop. From there, you can find a lot of shared taxis and minibusses to Hisor town. They usually charge from 5 to 10 TJS.
But keep in mind that the fortress itself is not in the town of Hisor, you have to proceed about 6 km further. You can find direct taxis to the fortress (usually for 20 TJS), or first, you can go to the town, and from the town get another taxi to the fortress.
The more other passengers travel in the same taxi, the cheaper it will be. If you are alone, you will pay more. Some taxis can even tell you 100 TJS for only 6 km, from the town to the fortress. It is expensive- find another one, better with other passengers, there are a lot! Then, the way back is the same.
Entrance tickets: 10 TJS for the fortress, 10 TJS for the museum
Working hours: from 8:00 to 18:00
More things to see and do in Dushanbe
Above is the most essential for a traveler to see, do, feel, and touch in Dushanbe. But of course, there are always some additional things. Take a look at these:
- Gurminj Museum. You can often see it mentioned on many websites, blogs, and even Wikitravel or Wikivoyage. Keep in mind that now, in summer 2024, it has a new address- here. And when I was there in June, it was NOT working. There is even no sign on it, and it was closed. Hope it will open soon, here you can get familiar with the local traditional music.
- Haji Yaqub Mosque. This is the largest mosque in the whole of CIS (former Soviet Union). Although Islam in the country hasn’t too much influence on the local culture and lifestyle, this mosque has a high level of architectural value.
- St. Nicholas Cathedral. This is the large Orthodox Christian church in Tajikistan, with a typical architectural style, influenced by the Russian presence.
- Ismaili Center. This is an architectural jewel, made after the Ismaili Mausoleum in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. It is a functioning center of the local Nizari Ismaili Sect, a branch of Shia Islam.
- Navruz Palace. It is also called Navruz Chaykhana (considered the largest Chaykhana in Tajikistan) but it is more than that. It is a grand complex in traditional architectural style featuring several restaurants, an artificial lake, a cinema, gardens, a bowling alley, and more.
- Dushanbe Zoo. This is the largest zoo in Tajikistan, one of the largest in Central Asia. Of course, zoos are not typical representatives of a country but at least here you can see some local animals.
- Victory Park. This is a beautiful park established on a hill northeast of the city. The best thing about it is the spectacular view of Dushanbe from above.
Useful tips
These are essentially the best things to do in Dushanbe. And you can accomplish these activities for two days. However, you have to be prepared with some useful information- about transportation, accommodation, and other important details.
How to reach Dushanbe and roam around it
Dushanbe is the capital of Tajikistan, and obviously, it is the main entrance to the whole country. There are three ways to reach it- by plane, by train, and on the road.
By plane
Most travelers visiting Tajikistan arrive at Dushanbe Airport by plane. It is the largest international airport in the country, with connections to Dubai, Istanbul, Moscow, the other Central Asian capitals, and more cities.
Check for flights to Dushanbe!
By train
There is an international train that arrives in Dushanbe Railway Station from Moscow. Dushanbe is not its last station but it proceeds further inside Tajikistan to the city of Kulob. Unfortunately, it crosses a bit of Turkmenistan and for now, foreigners who aren’t from Central Asia can’t get Turkmenistan visas, so this way of travel is impossible for them.
On the road
Currently, there is no international bus service to Dushanbe from another country (Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan, or China), but only domestic. So, you can come from another country on the road only by multiple changes of local shared taxis and hitchhiking, or by your own transport (car, motorcycle, or bicycle, as many adventurous travelers do).
Roaming around the city
Once you arrive in Dushanbe, roaming around the city is easy. You have four options (unless you don’t arrive with your own vehicle): taxi, bus, minibus (marshrutka), and on foot.
Taxi
If you arrive by plane at Dushanbe Airport, you can get a taxi to the center. Airport taxis are much more expensive (and much more aggressive toward coming foreigners) than the taxis around the city but if you are not familiar with the local public transport, you don’t have many other options. Some of them will try to charge you with more than 10 USD for a very short distance, but you still can try to bargain.
Once you are in the center, taxis are much more normal, usually for no more than 20-30 TJS (around 2-3 USD) even for larger distances.
Public bus
Recently, many new public buses have been operating around Dushanbe. They are comfortable, with air conditioning, some of them with two floors. You enter from the front door, pay 2 TJS to the driver, and enjoy.
The problem is that you need to get familiar with their routes, to know where you are going. But you can remember Bus No. 8. It starts its route from the airport, crosses the best of the center and arrives in the west of the city, stopping at Zarnisor, from where you can get a shared taxi to Hisor Fortress. Thus, it covers most of the points of interest described above.
Marshrutka (Minibus)
Marshrutkas are the alternative versions of the buses. They usually charge 3 to 5 TJS and follow their own routes. They can be convenient too for moving around the city but they are less comfortable- because they are small, they are usually crowded. Again, you can remember Marshrutka No. 8, traveling from the airport, through the center, to the western end of the city.
On foot
Dushanbe is not too large as a territory. You can actually walk around the center, between the most essential points of interest. You can walk even from the airport to the southern parts of the city, although it is not so convenient (the area is a bit messy there). Walking on foot can give you more impressions of Dushanbe and its cityscape.
Where to stay in Dushanbe
Hotels in Dushanbe are relatively cheap, even the splurge ones. Except for a few grand representative hotels, the prices for the others are between 10 and 100 USD. You can easily find them on Booking or Agoda. The level of luxury depends on your budget and preferences.
However, another important factor you have to consider is the location. Fortunately, Dushanbe is not a city with heavy traffic jams but if you have to get a plane or a shared taxi to Pamir early in the morning, it is better to find a place to stay in the southern part of the city.
Check for hotels in Dushanbe on Booking!
Check for hotels in Dushanbe on Agoda!
I personally stayed in Sakho Hostel (on Booking under the name ObodHotel, and on Google Maps- Hostel Avtokolona). It is located exactly beside the Badakhshan Terminal from where taxis to Pamir depart, and it is quite near to the airport- you can even walk for about 20 min from the airport to the hostel. The center is not too far either- Bus No. 8 and Marshrutka No. 8 pass nearby.
Language
People in Dushanbe speak Tajik and Russian. If you know some Russian, you are perfectly ok. But if not, you may have some communication difficulties, since most people can’t speak English (but usually young people can, as well as people at the tourist spots). In such a case, you may need Google Translate, and for that, you would need a SIM card.
SIM card
Getting a SIM card in Dushanbe is easy. There are several mobile operators in Tajikistan, and the best ones are Tcell and MegaFon. For Dushanbe both are OK, but if you plan to travel to Pamir, keep in mind that these networks have only partial coverage. Tcell is better for the Wakhan Valley, while MegaFon- for Alichur and Murghab.
You can buy SIM cards from the airport but if you miss it, you can do it in various offices around the city. The procedure is fast and convenient, for about 10 min you can get a new SIM card.
Money
One of the first things you would want to do is to exchange some money. You can do it in Dushanbe Airport but for a bad rate (as in every airport in the world), but for a small amount of money it wouldn’t be a problem. Then, you can exchange a larger amount in most banks around Dushanbe- the process is quite easy and convenient.
Keep in mind that you can see a lot of bank machines around the city but many of them can’t accept most of the bank cards- can’t read them or just allow only a 4-digit password. So, cash is always better since relying on cards is a bit risky.
GBAO Permit
It is only for those who plan to go to the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (Pamir) and Dushanbe is their starting point. If you come from a country that does not need a visa for Tajikistan (and if you haven’t obtained that permit from another Tajikistani consulate or in Khujand), you must include a visit to OVIR (Department of Visas and Registration) in your Dushanbe itinerary.
This department is in the center, in a convenient place, and the whole process is usually quick (however, keep in mind that it is closed on Sunday and Saturday afternoon!)- for about 30 min you can get your permit, although sometimes can be more slowly.
Weather and seasons
Dushanbe is located in the semi-dry sub-tropical zone. So, you can expect the weather like in Spain. Summer is hot, sometimes more than 35C, but sometimes can rain. It is not the best time to explore Dushanbe but is the best time to go to Pamir, so this is the season for travelers on the Pamir Highway.
Autumn and spring are nice seasons- relatively cool and relatively dry, especially autumn. Finally, winter is cold but not as cold as in the high mountains. There are occasional snowfalls but snow doesn’t cover Dushanbe for long, it quickly melts.
This is Dushanbe- a city full of Central Asian vibes and contrasts. But only a real trip can give you a full impression of it. And if you make Dushanbe an important stop on your longer journey through this part of the Earth, you can feel the adventure fragrance everywhere around it.
Take a look at the videos about Dushanbe below:
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!