Last updated: October 2026 — lake size, protected-area status, shoreline access, Bird Island and Sand Island restrictions, scenic areas, cycling infrastructure, transport, accommodation registration, and seasonal conditions have been reviewed, while our original journeys remain preserved.
Deep and far in the highest mountain land on the Earth, beyond summits, grasslands, and wilderness, there is a blue-green pearl. This is a place where the sky meets water, and clouds meet pastures. A place of several civilizations crossroad, on the “Roof of the World”. This is Qinghai Lake, a fairy tale sea in Eastern Tibet. Let’s go on a journey to Qinghai Lake and dive into its stunning world!
Table of Contents
Where is Qinghai Lake
Qinghai Lake (青海湖- Qinghai Hu in Chinese, Koko Nor in Mongolian, and Co Ngoinbo-མཚོ་སྔོན་པོ་ in Tibetan) is far deep in the heart of Asia, far from every ocean. If you open the map, you can see it near the east-northeast boundary of the Great Tibetan Plateau, like a big eye. There are many other lakes on the Plateau, as well as in the rest of China, but Qinghai Lake is the largest. No wonder that it is called “sea”- the Blue-Green See, as the name Qinghai means.
Basic facts about Qinghai Lake
Qinghai Lake lies in Qinghai Province at about 3,197 m above sea level. It is China’s largest inland saline lake, occupying a closed endorheic basin with no outlet to the ocean. By the end of 2025, its water surface had expanded to about 4,658 km², after two decades of generally rising water levels. Grasslands, wetlands, dunes, and high mountains surround the basin, creating one of the most distinctive landscapes on the northeastern Tibetan Plateau. National Forestry and Grassland Administration — Qinghai Lake, 2026.
Qinghai Lake lies near the northeastern edge of the wider Tibetan cultural world, in a region where Tibetan, Mongol, Hui Muslim, and Han Chinese communities and historical influences meet. This cultural mixture is closely connected with the pastoral landscape of the lake basin. They meet here, creating a unique mix, combined with the fantastic beauty of the grasslands, water, sand deserts, and mountains, in a nomadic lifestyle existing for many centuries.
A changing shoreline: Qinghai Lake is not geographically static. Its water area has increased from about 4,244 km² in 2004 to about 4,658 km² by the end of 2025. As the lake has expanded, some old shoreline features, sand spits, roads, and visitor structures have changed or become surrounded by water. This means that older maps and travel reports can show a coastline that no longer matches the terrain exactly.
Our journeys to Qinghai Lake
All this stunning beauty has made Qinghai Lake attractive for many people, including many travelers. So we included it in our Eastern Tibet itineraries. We made two trips to Qinghai Lake, both from the south, from the deep and high interior of the Great Tibetan Plateau, and the giant snowy Mt. Amnye Machen.
Both our Qinghai Lake trips were in August, and we experienced changing weather, from a heavy rainstorm to a deep pure blue sky with white clouds. Thus we had the opportunity to enjoy various breathtaking colors and views of water, sky, and grassland.
Our main area of exploring Qinghai Lake was its southern coast. We walked at the coastline, enjoyed the stunning views with flocks of sheep, yaks, and horses, experienced the local Tibetan culture and hospitality, and played on the dunes of the nearby desert. But there is much more to see and do around (and on) the lake, so below is what we experienced, and what we would like to experience if we had more time, to explore in full this incredibly beautiful spot on the Earth.
Get more impressions from our video trip to Qinghai Lake:
What to see and do on and around Qinghai Lake
First, let’s look at the map of the Qinghai Lake area. With a water surface of roughly 4,650 km², the lake is enormous — large enough that its opposite shore often disappears below the horizon. And there are two directions to exploring it. First- circumambulating around it, following its coastline. And second- floating on it.
Around the Qinghai Lake
This is an activity, performed by Tibetan pilgrims since ancient times. They circumambulate around the lake for 10-18 days by horse riding or 18-25 days on foot. Today Qinghai Lake attracts an increasing amount of tourists and travelers who do the same, but by local buses, by car, by tourist buses, by motorcycles, or the most attractive way- by bike. Let’s follow the lake clockwise, beginning from the southeastern shore and the main Qinghai Lake scenic-area corridor. Qinghai Lake is also being developed within China’s national-park system, but as of 2026 it remains in the national-park creation process rather than being one of the country’s formally established national parks. Much of the lake basin is already protected through the Qinghai Lake National Nature Reserve and other conservation regimes.
Qinghai Lake coast
If you come from the east (as most travelers do), you would travel on a straight road (National Highway 109) west-northwestward, on a flat plain covered by grassland and some fenced areas. You pass through the main gate and soon you can see the blue horizon in the distance- this is Qinghai Lake.
The road proceeds westward, passing by a lot of yurts and some buildings, most of which are hotels and restaurants. You will also notice large fields covered by yellow flowers (in summer)- this is Rapeseed- an iconic flower that has become one of the Qinghai Lake’s symbols. You can also see some small temples, Tibetan stupas, and prayer flags.
The shoreline looks open on the map, but access is no longer simply a matter of leaving the road and walking to the water. Some sections are official scenic areas, others cross pastoral land, and important wetlands and wildlife habitats have restricted access. Use established viewpoints, legal local access points, or marked scenic areas rather than assuming that every fence can be crossed simply by paying a small local fee. Around tourist-accessible sections you may still see decorated yaks, horses, and other photo or riding services offered by local residents; agree on the price before using them.
Erlangjian Scenic Area (二郎剑景区)
Some villages around the Qinghai Lake have recently turned into resorts. One of these resorts is Erlangjian. This is the place where we spent the night during our trips to the lake. Here we enjoyed not only the fantastic lake landscapes but also the delicious food in the local restaurants, which offer not only yummy meals but also a cozy traditional environment.
The most attractive part of the resort is its center, especially on the coast. Here is one of the main wharves of the lake, a starting point for Qinghai Lake cruises. It is touristy, but at least you can enjoy the unique atmosphere of the lake and its culture.
Erlangjian remains the main developed visitor area on the southern shore, with lake viewpoints, visitor facilities, and boat services. Access arrangements and ticket prices have changed since our original visit, so do not rely on the old 100 CNY figure. In 2026, Qinghai Lake uses the official Smart Tour Qinghai Lake (智游青海湖) platform for tickets and visitor services, and Erlangjian participates in a 72-hour repeated-entry system together with Fairy Bay. Current opening hours are adjusted seasonally.
Let’s proceed further west on the coast of the lake. The next place is Heimahe.
Heimahe (黑马河)
In English, the name means Black Horse River. It is a small river, coming from the nearby mountains covered by grassland. And there is a village on the southwestern coast of the Qinghai Lake with the same name. Again, today it is turned into a resort, which is another starting point for exploring the lake. Here you can see the mountains more closely located to the coastline, rising above the blue-green waters. The best spot nearby is marked by another stupa and prayer flags.
From here, the coast gradually turns northward, then eastward, reaching one of the most beautiful parts of Qinghai Lake- the Buha River Peninsula and the Bird Island.
The Buha River Peninsula and the Bird Island (鸟岛)
The western side of Qinghai Lake, around the Buha River delta, is one of the most important bird habitats in the entire basin. The area historically known as Bird Island became famous because enormous numbers of waterbirds gather and breed there.
However, Bird Island is no longer a tourist attraction. It has been closed to tourism since 2017 for ecological restoration and wildlife protection, and visitors should not attempt to enter it independently. The closure has helped breeding birds return in much larger numbers, making the area more valuable as a protected habitat than as a sightseeing site. National Forestry and Grassland Administration — Qinghai Lake wetland restoration.
Now, let’s proceed further, to the northern coast of the Qinghai Lake. Here you can enjoy Fairy Bay.
Fairy Bay Scenic Area (仙女湾景区)
This is a wetland, located on the north-northwestern shores of the Qinghai Lake. Its name describes the beauty of the place- full of colors and reflections. Fairy Bay (仙女湾) wetland is particularly beautiful in summer when you can dive into its flower fields, and watch countless flocks of migratory birds. Here you can meet graceful swans in an extravaganza of blue, white, and green, where the sky meets waters.
Fairy Bay remains one of the principal officially managed scenic areas around Qinghai Lake. Its boardwalks and designated visitor facilities allow people to experience the northern wetland landscape without freely entering sensitive bird habitat. Ticket prices and opening hours are seasonal, so check them through the official Qinghai Lake visitor platform rather than relying on the old 60 CNY price. Erlangjian and Fairy Bay currently share the 72-hour repeated-entry policy.
Wildlife protection note: Qinghai Lake is one of China’s most important high-altitude wetland ecosystems. Do not chase, feed, or closely approach wildlife, and be especially careful with drones. Current management rules prohibit drone disturbance in sensitive bird and Przewalski’s gazelle habitats, including several wetlands around the lake.
Let’s proceed to the northeastern shores of Qinghai Lake, where waters meet sand.
Sand Island (沙岛) and Jinshawan Desert (金沙湾)
The northeastern shore is where Qinghai Lake meets a remarkable belt of dunes, small lakes, wetlands, and grassland. During our original journey, we explored the sands around Jinshawan and paid a local entrance fee to enter the dune area. It was one of the most beautiful contrasts around the lake — yellow sand, deep blue water, green grassland, and high plateau sky.
The access situation has changed substantially since then. Sand Island has been closed to tourism since 2017 as part of ecological restoration, and visitors must not enter its protected core and buffer zones. Some parts of the broader Jinshawan landscape can still be experienced from legal visitor areas and roads, but unauthorized off-road driving, crossing protected dunes, or entering closed conservation areas is prohibited. Qinghai Lake conservation update.
Thus we encircle the whole lake. Now it’s time to look at its interior, on the vast blue waters of the lake.
On the Qinghai Lake
If you float on the waters of Qinghai Lake during a calm windless misty day, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of a water meeting sky in an unreal picture. Then, suddenly, you can see an island. Yes, there is a small island in the middle of the lake, called Haixin Island, or Haixin Hill- 海心山 (Hill of the Sea Heart).
Haixinshan and Sankuaishi are among the isolated islands and rocky habitats inside Qinghai Lake, important for wildlife and the ecological integrity of the reserve.
They are not tourist destinations. Both lie within the core zone of the Qinghai Lake National Nature Reserve, and current regulations prohibit outdoor groups or individuals from organizing visits or crossings to them. Do not accept private-boat offers promising unauthorized landings or access to these islands. Qinghai Lake protected-area notice.
Altitude note: Qinghai Lake lies around 3,200 m above sea level. Most visitors can walk around the developed scenic areas without difficulty, but people arriving directly from low elevation may still experience headache, unusual fatigue, dizziness, or shortness of breath. Keep the first day relatively light, especially before cycling or other sustained activity.
Transportation
The whole lake is encircled by a good road, and well-connected to the neighboring cities and counties in Qinghai Province. Xining, Qinghai’s capital is on the east, Golmud is on the west, Yushu- on the south, and Zhangye- on the north. And there are several ways to reach the lake- by public or by private transport. If you just want to visit Qinghai Lake, your starting point is Xining. But if Qinghai Lake is just one of your journey stops, you would reach it from the other directions too. Let’s see the options.
By public bus
Public transport from Xining can still be used to reach towns and major visitor areas around Qinghai Lake, but bus terminals, routes, departure times, and fares have changed since the original article. For a simple day visit, tourist buses and organized transfers from Xining are often the easiest option; for independent travel, check current long-distance and local connections shortly before departure.
By organized tour from Xining
This is an easier way. Every travel company in Xining offers one or more days’ trips to Qinghai Lake. Their trips cover the most important places of interest around the lake- in general, all of the above described, depending on the trip duration. Your hotel or hostel in Xining should direct you to a travel company, and you just join the trip.
By train
There is a railway connecting Xining with the gorgeous wild west of China- Xinjiang or Tibet (Lhasa). One of these trains stops in Gangcha, and it is the cheapest transport to the lake. Rail services also connect Xining with parts of northern and western Qinghai, and Gangcha can be useful for reaching the northern side of the lake. Train numbers, schedules, and fares change, so check the current China Railway timetable rather than relying on the old 2020 service quoted here.
By private car
This would be the most convenient way to travel to Qinghai Lake- you could easily rent a car from Xining, or just include the lake on a long journey from Chengdu (as we did) or other places, then you can visit and enjoy all the interesting places around it.
For foreign travelers, driving in mainland China requires a valid Chinese driving licence or an eligible temporary Chinese driving permit; a foreign licence or International Driving Permit alone is not sufficient. If you do not have the required Chinese permit, hiring a car with a driver is the simplest option for exploring the full lake circuit.
Shared cars and local vans can also be useful, but agree clearly on the destination and total fare before departure rather than relying on old informal price expectations.
Around the lake
Once you arrive at Qinghai Lake, you can find various options to travel around it. You can still use some local buses which travel between the towns and villages on the coast. There are also a lot of taxis that you can find.
Cycling remains one of the best ways to experience the scale of Qinghai Lake. By 2026, the around-the-lake cycling corridor had become much more developed, with a continuous cycling road, supply stations, viewpoints, and strong local cycling infrastructure. Xihai and other towns around the basin remain useful starting points, but rental operators and prices change, so arrange the bicycle locally rather than relying on the old figures in this article. Qinghai cycling infrastructure, 2026.
At roughly 3,200 m altitude, however, a full circuit is not just an ordinary lowland bike tour. Wind, ultraviolet exposure, cold rain, and reduced oxygen can make even relatively flat sections much harder than their map profile suggests.
Qinghai Lake cruises
From ancient times, the local Tibetan and Mongolian fishermen have wandered on the lake for their fishing business. Now, this practice gradually remains in the past. Instead, Qinghai Lake is gradually conquering by developing tourism. And yes, it is worth to enjoy the stunning lake scenery from within.
Official sightseeing boats continue to operate from Erlangjian during the visitor season, but schedules, routes, vessel types, and prices can change. Check the current options through the official Qinghai Lake visitor platform when you arrive.
Do not assume that private boats may legally take visitors anywhere on the lake. Protected islands, wildlife habitats, and core reserve zones have strict access restrictions, and Haixinshan and Sankuaishi are not open for tourism.
Accommodation
There are many accommodation options around Qinghai Lake, ranging from larger hotels to local guesthouses and Tibetan-style properties. Hotels that receive foreign guests register passport information through the normal accommodation-registration system; foreign nationality alone should not be treated as a reason for refusal. For stays outside hotels, China introduced nationwide online accommodation registration in September 2026, with registration required within 24 hours.
During our original trips, we stayed at a Tibetan-style property in the small Wenxiyuan area east of Erlangjian, then known as Zhaxi Tibetan Youth Hostel (青海湖扎西度假藏式e家酒店). Treat this as part of our personal journey rather than a current accommodation recommendation. The tourism market around Qinghai Lake has changed considerably, and in peak summer periods it is now much better to check current availability in advance than to assume that a room will always be available on arrival.
Camping around Qinghai Lake requires more care than an ordinary open grassland may suggest. Much of the shoreline is pastoral land, wetland habitat, or part of protected conservation zones, so do not assume that you can simply pitch a tent beside the water. Use legal campsites or accommodation properties that explicitly allow tents, and ask permission where the land is used by local herders. Avoid wetlands, bird habitat, and closed shoreline zones.
Seasons and other tips
Qinghai Lake is located at 3205 m altitude, so don’t expect hot weather there. The best time to travel to the lake is summer, especially July and August. This is the greenest and warmest time of the year, so this is the high season- the time of the most beautiful “game of colors”. At the same time, it is the wettest season of the year, with short but often rains.
After the summer, the lake landscape changes- it becomes yellowish, with more and more white- from frost, snow, and ice. Winter is cold, dry, and often very clear, and large parts of the lake freeze during the cold season. However, ice thickness and stability vary with location and season. Do not treat the frozen surface as a road or walking route: official Qinghai Lake notices prohibit people and vehicles from entering unstable lake ice when conditions become unsafe.
Spring brings one of the most important wildlife periods at Qinghai Lake as migratory and breeding birds gather around the western and northern wetlands. April and May can be excellent for birdwatching from legal observation areas. Bird Island itself, however, remains closed for ecological protection, so wildlife should be observed only from designated public areas without entering breeding habitat or disturbing the birds.
Qinghai Lake was our last stop before we left the Great Tibetan Plateau and descent to the “civilization”- Xining. At first, after the vast wild spaces of the Tibetan grasslands, Qinghai Lake looked too touristy for us. But when we ignored this fact and focused on the nature, we could dive into this fantastic place and its incredible beauty. Thus we left Qinghai Lake, but it remained our inspiration for more and more new horizons to explore.
Get more Qinghai Lake impressions from this amazingly beautiful song:
Check some travel books about Tibet:
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
Krasen and Ying Ying
Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually. So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration. And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality. Enjoy!
