Last updated: October 2026 — current access, transport, accommodation registration, earthquake context, major cultural sites, and travel conditions in the wider Yushu region have been reviewed, while the original first-hand journey is preserved.
A vast highland of rolling hills, covered by endless grasslands, under the deep blue sky with white clouds. Everlasting silence until the horizon and beyond it interrupted only by scattered Tibetan nomadic families with their yak herds. Curving river valleys through the wilderness, and probably some lonely Tibetan stupa hidden somewhere around. And all this between around 4000 to 5000 m altitude. This is the southwest part of Qinghai Province, in Eastern Tibet, with its main city Yushu, located “in the middle of nowhere”. Let’s make a journey to this hidden gem, deep in the Tibetan land.
Table of Contents
About Yushu
Let’s open the map of Tibet. And when I say “Tibet”, I mean the whole highland in the middle of Asia, not only the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR). In this article, “Eastern Tibet” is therefore used in the cultural-geographic sense, while administratively Yushu is part of Qinghai Province, not the Tibet Autonomous Region.
So, look at the eastern part of the Great Tibetan Plateau, in its Qinghai part, just northeast of TAR. If your map is physical or satellite, you can notice the large plains, interrupted by snow mountain chains and deep valleys between them. You can also see the Tongtian River- which is only a section of the longest river in Asia- Yangtze. Finally, you can see Yushu City, located on 3650 m altitude, just west of Tongtian.
Yushu (Jyekundo) City
Yushu (玉树, ཡུལ་ཤུལ་གྲོང་ཁྱེར།), traditionally known in Tibetan as Jyekundo or Gyegudo, is the main urban center of southern Qinghai and the administrative seat of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The city lies at about 3,700 m altitude in the valley of the Batang River, within the upper Yangtze basin. The shorter Tibetan form Gyegu is also widely used.
For many centuries, Yushu has been a trade center on the roads connecting Lhasa, Chengdu, and Xining. At the same time, it is located in the extreme northwest of the Tibetan Kham region, not far from the other two regions U-Tsang and Amdo. The city was a long time a part of the Nangqen Kingdom, independent from Lhasa. And this cultural and historical inheritance formed the image of Yushu, with several significant monasteries and local Tibetan traditional life… until April 14th, 2010.
The devastating earthquake
The earthquake struck at 7:49 am on 14 April 2010, with a magnitude of 7.1. Its epicentral area was near Gyegu, and the destruction was catastrophic: official figures record 2,698 people killed and 270 missing. Large parts of the city were destroyed or rendered unsafe, leaving many survivors in temporary shelters while emergency relief and reconstruction began. China Ministry of Emergency Management — Yushu earthquake reconstruction review.
Reconstruction began immediately after the earthquake, and the main rebuilding program was completed within the following years. By 2013-2014, Yushu had emerged as a largely new city, with wide streets, new housing, public buildings, squares, and extensive architecture inspired by local Tibetan styles. The result is not a restored copy of pre-earthquake Gyegu but a modern high-altitude city built on the same cultural landscape.
The wilderness around Yushu
So, if you go to Yushu, you will find yourself in a modern urban area with wide boulevards, parks, malls, squares, and everything else that makes Yushu “a big modern city”. But if you look at it from space, you will see that this city is in the heart of a high altitude wilderness. It is surrounded by hills, a valley with curving rivers, and endless grasslands. The only traces of human presence in this wilderness are several scattered villages and towns, roads connecting them, and some Tibetan nomad tents, their inhabitants, and their yaks.
Beyond Yushu, especially toward Qumarleb and the source regions of the great rivers, settlements become increasingly sparse and the landscape opens into some of the most remote high-altitude terrain in Asia. Farther west and northwest lie the vast Sanjiangyuan and Hoh Xil-Kekexili wildernesses, which eventually connect geographically with the broader high plateau systems of northern Tibet.
But let’s focus on another important geographical feature of Yushu- Yangtze River.
Yangtze River
Yangtze River is the longest river in Eurasia, one of the longest rivers on the Earth. Many cities and other significant geographical spots are connected by this famous river- Shanghai, Nanjing, Wuhan, Chongqing, as well as places like the Three Gorges and Tiger Leaping Gorge. It is so long and passes through so different geographical zones that its main stream is divided into four rivers.
The upper Yangtze changes name several times as it crosses the Tibetan Plateau and western China. Near Yushu, the river is known as the Tongtian River. Downstream, after major tributary junctions, it becomes the Jinsha River, which cuts through the mountains of western China before continuing toward the Sichuan Basin and the middle and lower Yangtze. Upstream of the Tongtian are several headwater systems in the Tanggula Mountains, including the Tuotuo River. For an explorer, these changing names are useful because they mark very different geographic environments along one enormous river system.
Yushu lies close to one of the major transition zones of the upper Yangtze system, where the high-plateau Tongtian section begins to descend toward the deeper valleys of the Jinsha River basin. This makes the wider Yushu region geographically important for understanding the upper Yangtze.
Our trip to Yushu
We chose Yushu as an important point of our Eastern Tibet trip, as Yushu was its westernmost point. Our journey was arranged by car, from Chengdu to Xining. On our way, we passed the romantic Kangding, the grasslands of Tagong, the stunning Garze area, and the fantastic Yilhun Lhatso Lake on the foot of Chola Mountain. We saw Dzogchen and Serxu monasteries and crossed Anbala Pass (4610 m), from Sichuan to Qinghai provinces. Then we descent to Highway G214, connecting Xining with Yushu to the point where Tongtian becomes Jinshajiang, and finally entered Yushu.
Once we arrived there, we walked around the city and enjoyed its new image. We tried the local Tibetan food at its best and explored its beautiful Tibetan style houses. We spent only one night, and it was not enough to visit all the places of interest in Yushu, but at least we dived into its unique local atmosphere.
Below is what we visited and what we would like to visit if we had time.
Take a look at our Yushu video story, a part of our Eastern Tibet journey below:
Places of interest in Yushu
In general, the places to visit in Yushu are two types- urban environment, and Buddhist monasteries. And the first type, the urban environment is almost entirely new, built after the earthquake. But although there is no “old town”, the new modern city is a very nice, clean, and pretty place, worth walking.
Walk around the city
Today Yushu is a quite spacious city. It is established on three valley directions (Y-shape)- westward, eastward, and southward, starting from a central point. No matter which direction you would choose, you can enjoy the new beautiful Tibetan architecture everywhere. Yes, some of the houses are a bit kitschy, but the whole clean and fresh environment is a pleasure for walking. And one of the most emblematic places of the city is King Gesar Square.
Yushu today: The city is no longer merely a remote stop deep on the plateau. By 2026, Yushu had become the center of a rapidly developing eco-tourism network built around the Sanjiangyuan region, Tibetan culture, self-drive routes, museums, festivals, and high-altitude outdoor travel. At the same time, this development makes it increasingly important to distinguish between formal tourism corridors and genuinely remote terrain farther into the plateau. Yushu tourism development, 2026.
King Gesar Square
You can see King Gesar squares in many cities in Tibet. Usually, they are the largest squares in the city, with a monument of this mysterious king, and a favorite place for the local Tibetans who gather there in the evening and dance on Tibetan music. But who is this king, and why he is so important for the Tibetans?
King Gesar is the central hero of the Epic of King Gesar, one of the great oral epic traditions of Inner and Central Asia. The stories place him as ruler of the legendary Kingdom of Ling, and although the epic may preserve memories of real historical people and conflicts, Gesar himself cannot be identified securely as a single documented historical ruler. In Tibetan cultural tradition, however, he remains one of the most powerful symbols of heroism, protection, and identity.
In Yushu, the monument of King Gesar is established on the main square of the city- a large place, the main starting point for exploring the whole area around. And on its southern side, you can see a massive thick wall- a symbol of the victory over the earthquake.
Almost all of this is new. But if you want to see something old, although restored after the earthquake, go to the monasteries of Yushu- Gyegu monasteries.
Gyegu monasteries
There are several monasteries in Yushu, located on the two of the three main city directions- on the east, and the south. All of them have centuries, even more than a millennium of history, presenting not only religion but also culture. Like the other buildings in Yushu, they also suffered more or fewer damages during the earthquake, but today are restored.
You probably would not visit one by one all the monasteries and temples, unless you have more time and want to research each of them in detail. But if you decide to go to at least one of them (or two-three), I would mention Jyekundo Dondrubling, Gyanak Mani Stones Temple, and the Temple of Princess Wencheng.
Jyekundo Dondrubling Monastery
This is the nearest monastery to the city center. Located right above the urban area, on the hills north of it, it presents not only a splendid local architecture, but its location offers great panoramic views to the area.
Jyekundo Dondrubling (Gyegu Monastery) stands on the northern hillside above the city and is one of Yushu’s most important religious sites. According to the official local tourism authority, the site was originally associated with Bön, later with the Kagyu tradition, and in 1389 became a Sakya monastery. Its hillside position also makes it one of the best places for panoramic views over modern Yushu. Yushu tourism authority — Jyekundo Dondrubling.
Gyanak Mani Stones Temple
If you still stay down in the city, you can walk eastward on the valley of Batang River, to the eastern neighborhoods of Yushu. And soon you will see a wall and a line of stupas over it. After the wall- another long red wall with prayer wheels. And behind this red wall- a large pile of stones.
This is the Gyanak Mani complex, also known as the Xinzhai Mani Stone site. Over generations, pilgrims have added an enormous number of carved stones inscribed with mantras, Buddhist texts, images, and other religious motifs, forming what is widely described as one of the largest — and often the largest — Mani stone collections in the world. Local Tibetans continue to perform kora around the complex, so it remains a living religious landscape rather than simply an archaeological monument.
Princess Wencheng Monastery
This is another must-see place in Yushu. It is not exactly in the city, but some 20 km south of it, well-connected by Highway G214, on around 3850 m altitude.
Princess Wencheng’s story goes back to the 7th century, when the Tang court arranged her marriage to the Tibetan ruler Songtsen Gampo as part of the political relations between the Tang Empire and the Tibetan Empire. Traditional accounts describe her long journey westward toward Lhasa, and the Yushu region preserves strong local traditions connecting her route with the present Wencheng Princess Temple.
Then she proceeded on her way to Lhasa, making an important political and cultural exchange between the Tibetans and Han Chinese people. Local tradition holds that Princess Wencheng stayed in this valley during her journey toward Lhasa, and the site later became an important place of worship. The present Wencheng Princess Temple, also known as the Vairocana Temple, lies about 20 km south of Yushu and remains one of the region’s best-known religious sites. The traditional connection with the princess is central to its identity, even where the details belong more to sacred memory than to independently documented history.
More places to visit in Yushu
Besides these three important monasteries, there are several more- Zomda, Jorang, Thranggu, Dangka, etc., but they are not so significant. In general, there is not much else to see in the city, but I would recommend three places that you should not skip. The first one is the Yushu Museum, presenting a lot of information about the region, located right beside the main Y-shaped crossroad of the city.
The second one is Yushu Earthquake Memorial Hall, in the south part of Yushu, which features another museum, dedicated to the earthquake events and restoration of the city. And the third one is A Gu Dun Ba (Grandma’s Kitchen) Restaurant- the best Tibetan restaurant in Yushu.
The restaurant is easy to find. Just cross Batang River from King Gesar Square and you will see it. They offer Tibetan food in its best, in a refined atmosphere, usually with soft Tibetan music. And the owner is a friendly Tibetan who can share a lot about the city, about the life of locals, and many other things.
Transportation
Yushu Batang Airport now connects the city much more strongly with the rest of China than when this article was first written. In the 2026 summer schedule, Yushu had multiple daily flights to Xining, as well as direct services to Beijing and Chengdu. Flying is the fastest way to arrive, but it also produces a very rapid altitude gain: Yushu is around 3,700 m, so travelers arriving directly from low elevation should keep the first day light and watch carefully for symptoms of altitude illness. Current schedules should always be checked before travel because plateau routes can change seasonally.
Traveling overland from Xining remains the slower but geographically much richer approach. It allows you to cross the high plateau gradually and, if you stop on the way, can provide more time for acclimatization than flying directly into Yushu. Bus schedules, journey times, and fares change, so check the current long-distance transport information locally rather than relying on the old 2020 figures.
Overland access is possible from several directions through the expanding plateau road network. From the east, one of the most interesting routes enters from western Sichuan through Serxu; from the north and northwest, roads connect Yushu with Qumarleb and other parts of Qinghai. For foreign travelers, however, the administrative boundary with the Tibet Autonomous Region remains a separate issue: entering the TAR requires the appropriate Tibet travel arrangements and permits, so a road physically continuing toward Chamdo does not mean that an independent foreign traveler can simply cross the provincial boundary.
Access note for foreign travelers: Yushu is in Qinghai Province, not in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Foreign travelers can generally visit the Tibetan areas of Qinghai independently without the Tibet Travel Permit required for the TAR. However, specific border-management zones, protected areas, or temporarily restricted locations can have additional rules, so remote routes should still be checked individually rather than assuming that the whole prefecture has the same access conditions.
Transportation in the city and around
Once you arrive in Yushu, moving around the city is easy- you can do it on foot, by local taxi, or by public bus (for only 1 CNY). And if you have more time, you can visit the towns and areas south of Yushu- to Nangchen, Zadoi, and the villages around them. This area at the border of TAR is interesting because you can find beautiful alpine forests. Yes, its pity that foreigners can’t legally cross into TAR, but we hope one day the restrictions will be lifted.
Accommodation
Yushu now has a much broader accommodation market than during our original visit, including modern hotels and local Tibetan-style properties. Hotels register foreign guests using their passport information. If a foreign traveler stays somewhere other than a hotel — for example with a local host or in another private residence — accommodation registration is still required within 24 hours. Since 21 September 2026, this can be completed online nationwide through the National Immigration Administration’s official service channels. NIA — nationwide online accommodation registration.
Seasons
July and August are the warmest and greenest months around Yushu and usually offer the strongest contrast between deep green grasslands and the high blue plateau sky. They are also part of the wetter season, so cloud, rain, and rapidly changing weather remain common. Yushu’s traditional horse-racing events are still major cultural attractions, but their exact dates vary from year to year, so check the current cultural-tourism calendar if the festival is an important part of your trip.
The other seasons are colder and dryer, hence sunny almost all the time. But the grasslands around are yellow, not green. Winter is very cold, with temperatures dropping sometimes below -30°C. Tibetan New Year falls in late winter or early spring, but access conditions should be checked for the specific region and year. Do not assume that Yushu or all Tibetan cultural areas outside the TAR automatically close to foreign travelers during this period.
Now, let’s go out of the city- to the endless silent grasslands, hills, and valleys.
Out of the city
As I mentioned above, Yushu is established in Y-shape, with three main roads following the shape, and three hillsides between them. The hillsides are great for hiking, and the more you ascend, the more stunning views you can enjoy, including the city from above. And if you proceed further, losing Yushu from your sight, you will enter the real “middle of nowhere”, but still with the possibility to meet some Tibetan nomads or to reach a small remote village (beware of the dogs guarding the yak herds, they can be aggressive!)
Roads west and northwest from Yushu lead toward Qumarleb and progressively more remote parts of the Sanjiangyuan region. Farther beyond lie the high, sparsely inhabited landscapes approaching Hoh Xil-Kekexili, one of the most important wildlife areas on the Tibetan Plateau. These are not simply empty spaces open for unrestricted exploration: protected-area rules, seasonal road conditions, and local access restrictions become increasingly important the farther you move away from the main settlements.
Northeast from Yushu, the main route toward Xining crosses vast high grasslands and the Bayan Har mountain system, repeatedly climbing above 4,000 m. Farther on, the journey passes through the upper Yellow River region and the wider Amnye Machen landscape before eventually descending toward Qinghai Lake and Xining.
The eastern road was our choice too, as a part of our Eastern Tibet journey. We left Yushu and back to Yangtze River again. Out next goal was the lonely icy giant of Amnye Machen, far deep amidst the grasslands. We threw several stones into the river’s raging waters and proceeded on our way through the vastness and fantastic beauty of the Great Tibetan Plateau.
Get more impressions from the video below:
Check some travel books about Tibet, hiking and high altitude experience:
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
Krasen and Ying Ying
Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually. So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration. And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality. Enjoy!
