Last updated: October 2026 — road access, the G0615 corridor, high-altitude trekking, glacier safety, protected-area context, accommodation, and the practical status of routes around Amnye Machen have been reviewed, while the original first-hand journeys remain unchanged.
Far, far away, deep in the highest land on the Earth, there is an endless sea of grass. Large plains and valleys with curving rivers and lakes are followed by rolling hills and mountain passes. Sometimes, yak herds can be seen, scattered somewhere in the cold and fresh emptiness. While you wander on this vast land, suddenly a giant icy mountain arises in front of you, with glamorous glaciers and snow-capped peaks. This is Amnye Machen, a white remote mountain “at the end of the world”, in the northeastern part of the Great Tibetan Plateau.
Table of Contents
About Amnye Machen
Let’s open the physical map of Asia and focus on the northeastern Tibetan Plateau. Along its northern side extends the vast Kunlun mountain system, which gradually breaks into several eastern ranges. Amnye Machen forms one of these eastern extensions, rising prominently above the surrounding high plateau. The Yellow River makes one of its great bends around this broader mountain system, linking Amnye Machen directly with the geography of the upper Huang He basin.
One of these branches is Amnye Machen (阿尼玛卿, ཨ་མྱེ་རྨ་ཆེན།), rising spectacularly above the other mountains nearby. Its highest peak is Machen Kangri (6282 m/20 610 ft), called also Dradullunshog. The massif is compact compared with the larger Kunlun system, but rises very prominently above the surrounding plateau. Besides this peak, several other peaks are rising above 6000 m altitude. Many glaciers descend from the peaks, as the largest one is Damxung Glacier.
Amnye Machen is one of the great sacred mountains of the Tibetan cultural world, especially important in Amdo, where it is associated with the protector deity Machen Pomra. Like other sacred mountains of Tibet, it is traditionally circled on pilgrimage rather than simply approached as a mountaineering objective. The mountain range is a subject of “kora”, a circumambulation journey around it. It is performed today by the local Tibetans, and the same route is a traditional trek route for travelers.
History of Amnye Machen
For centuries the mountain was surrounded by religious and geographic mystery. Early outside estimates of its height were wildly exaggerated, and during the first half of the 20th century some reports even suggested that Amnye Machen might rival or exceed Everest. Modern surveys later established the main summit at about 6,282 m, revealing that its extraordinary impression comes less from absolute elevation than from its isolation and prominence above the surrounding plateau.
The highest part of Amnye Machen is heavily glaciated and technically serious despite the relatively rounded appearance of some ridges. The main summit, Machen Kangri I, was first reached by a Japanese expedition on 22 May 1981. American and Austro-German teams reached the summit only weeks later, during an unusual burst of climbing activity that established the modern mountaineering history of the massif. American Alpine Club — Anyemaqen, 1981.
Include a travel insurance as a part of your trip preparation by pressing the button below: 
Exploring the Earth is fantastic! However, there are various hidden dangers that may ruin your journeys. Don’t allow that to happen, or at least reduce the consequences as much as possible!
Our first journey to Amnye Machen
All of this aroused our curiosity to visit Amnye Machen. Yes, we didn’t mean to climb its highest peaks, but at least to try to reach as high altitude as possible. So, we included it in our first Eastern Tibet journey. It was summer, the warmest season on the Great Tibetan Plateau.
We rent a car in Chengdu and designed our route through Eastern Tibet to Xining. In other words, we had to travel in the Tibetan areas of Sichuan and Qinghai provinces. Our journey started from Chengdu, passed Kangding, the most romantic city in China, then the stunning grasslands of Tagong. Then, we proceeded further northwest, passing Garze, Mt. Chola, and the fantastic Yilhun Lhatso Lake. Further northwest, we visited Dzogchen and Serxu monasteries, and through Anbala Pass entered Qinghai, reaching Yushu, a splendid city “in the middle of nowhere”.
From Yushu, we changed our direction to the northeast, on the G214 highway to Xining. It was a long way, crossing vast plains, summits on their ends, then other plains beyond the summits. One of the summits, called Bayan Har, was our highest point that we reached by car, at 4824 m altitude (we stopped the car there, and I climbed the nearby slopes, reaching 5000 m elevation). Then we passed the remote town of Madoi, and finally reached the small settlement of Tsogen Rawa (Huashixia, 花石峡), our starting point for reaching Amnye Machen.
On the old road from the west
It was 2016 when we reached Amnye Machen for the first time. A new highway running on the northern side of the mountain was under construction. At that time it was big trouble for the locals, who worried about the pollution of the environment with building waste. We were worried too since we could see a lot of waste and trash around the highway. But it didn’t stop us, so we had to drive about 20 km to the last village before the mountain.
We drove on a dirt road, and soon the glazing snowy peaks of Amnye Machen arose in front of us. Soon we arrived in Tawo Zholma, a small village with a big central square, surrounded by local shops and restaurants. Everything was silent. The only sound we could hear was a constant repeating mantra from one of the shops and the fresh mountain wind. We bought some necessary products and proceeded on the dirt road curving around the new highway. From Tawo Zholma the dirt road became a part of the circumnavigation “kora” route.
Drakde La Pass
Soon we approached the giant snowy peaks with their glaciers. The road passed a temple and started ascending until we reached Drakde La Pass (4610 m), the highest point of the “kora” route. We stopped here because the view was breathtaking. The giant Damxung Glacier was descending from Machen Kangri and the neighboring peak, gradually turning into a wide pile of broken icebergs. A lonely stupa was built over the road, and prayer flags were covering the rocks between the road and the glacier.
During our 2016 trip, we even stepped onto the lower glacier surface for a short distance, carefully avoiding visible cracks before returning to the road at sunset. I would treat this strictly as part of our personal experience, not as a current route recommendation: glacier margins change, crevasses may be hidden, and walking onto glacier ice without proper equipment and knowledge can be dangerous. From there, our plan was to continue toward Qiemu (Halong) Valley and camp beside the mountain.
Camping on the grassland
We couldn’t reach Halong Valley. The dirt road was too bad for our car, so we stopped at another point, on 4450 m. Here we saw a Tibetan family on a picnic, taking their dinner. They invited us to eat with them, and we tried their traditional tsampa with yak meat. We experienced the typical Tibetan hospitality, along with their blessing: “Tashi Delek!” (which means “Hello, peace upon you!”). Then the sun went down and the Tibetans left on their way. We installed our tents, staring into the ghostly shining Amnye Machen on the moonlight.
Hike upward the mountain slopes
On the next day, we tried to ascend on Amnye Machen, hiking as high as possible. Unfortunately, our time was limited, so we couldn’t go too far. But at least we could reach 4750 m altitude on the grassland, not far from the nearest glacier. Then we back to our car, and following the same road, we returned to Tsogen Rawa, proceeding on our journey to Qinghai Lake. But it was not our last visit to Amnye Machen.
Our second journey to Amnye Machen
So, we back to Amnye Machen a year later. It was August again, but this time the weather was cooler. And we came from another direction- from the fantastic mountain range of Nyenbo Yurze, located south of the Yellow River on the Great Tibetan Plateau. We arrived in the city of Golog, east of Amnye Machen, and our direction was Qinghai Lake. And we wanted to reach the lake on the new highway passing by Amnye Machen, intending to enjoy this stunning mountain again.
This time the highway was ready. Actually- almost ready, the toll gates haven’t worked yet, and there were two short sections where we had to leave the highway and drive on the old dirt road. And the good thing was that they have cleaned their waste and trash around it. Besides, the two places where we had to move to the old road were in very strategic points.
A rainy-snowy day in Amnye Machen
The first point was the eastern entrance of the Amne Machin Range National Geopark (青海玛沁阿尼玛卿山国家地质公园), marked by a large Tibetan-style gate beside the road. We photographed the sign there ourselves during our 2017 journey. The geopark formally covered part of the Amnye Machen massif in Maqin County and marked the transition from the highway corridor into the protected mountain landscape. China’s protected-area system has since been reorganized, and the former geopark has been incorporated into a larger protected-area framework, but the entrance remains an important geographical marker of the Amnye Machen zone. And the second point was again Drakde La Pass, with its lonely stupa, above the Damxung Glacier, with a thicker net of prayer flags, and new wooden panoramic terraces.
But this time it was rainy. I was afraid that probably we could not see the snowy peaks of Amnye Machen. To our good surprise, we not only saw the peaks, but also the rain turned into snow above 4400 m altitude, and Drakde La Pass was covered by thin snow. We enjoyed the magnificent landscape and once again approached the glacier margin to take photos. As with our first visit, this describes what we personally did at the time and should not be treated as a general recommendation to walk onto glacier ice. Then back to the highway and proceeded to Tsogen Rawa and Qinghai Lake.
Amnye Machen is still remote by normal tourism standards, but it is no longer as disconnected as it was during our first visits. The G0615 highway has greatly improved regional access, and Maqin County now promotes the mountain through cultural tourism and high-altitude outdoor events, including organized trail races around Xueshan Township. Even so, the landscape becomes wild very quickly once you leave the formal road and event corridors, and this difference between improved access and genuinely remote terrain is important to understand.
High-altitude note: Most practical exploration around Amnye Machen takes place between roughly 4,000 and 4,700 m, and some side routes go higher. This is not terrain for rapid arrival from low elevation. Spend enough time acclimatizing before beginning a multi-day kora or remote hike, keep the first days conservative, and descend if symptoms of altitude illness worsen rather than trying to “push through” them.
How to reach Amnye Machen
The main modern road corridor along the northern side of Amnye Machen is the G0615 Delingha-Maerkang Expressway. By 2026, the Huashixia-Dawu-Jiuzhi section is an established high-altitude route, although temporary construction, landslide risk, snow, and weather-related restrictions still occur. For independent exploration around the mountain itself, a private vehicle remains the most flexible option, but the condition and legal status of smaller access roads should be checked locally before leaving the main highway. Qinghai Transport Department — current road conditions.
The G0615 corridor can be approached from several directions, including Huashixia in the west and Dawu/Xueshan in the east. From Yushu or the Qinghai Lake side, Huashixia is a natural junction; from Xining and Golog, Dawu and Xueshan Township provide access from the east. Foreign travelers should distinguish ordinary open roads and towns from any specifically restricted areas: do not assume that an old restriction mentioned in this article still applies, but check the exact remote route if you plan to leave the established transport corridor.
Smaller roads and tracks leave the G0615 corridor toward the traditional pilgrimage terrain, including routes in the direction of Tawo Zholma, Xueshan, and Drakde La. Their surface and condition can change with road works, erosion, snow, river crossings, and local management. Do not rely on the old 2016-2020 description of a continuous dirt road as a current guarantee; obtain local information before committing a normal passenger car to these tracks.
Road update: The G0615 Huashixia-Dawu-Jiuzhi corridor is operational, but temporary construction, landslide hazards, snow, and local traffic controls still occur. In 2026, Qinghai transport bulletins repeatedly reported temporary lane closures and hazard management on this section. Check the current provincial road-condition bulletin shortly before travel rather than assuming that a high-standard expressway means uninterrupted access.
The “kora” trek
The traditional circumambulation is roughly 130 km in scale, although the actual distance depends on the tracks and detours used. Pilgrims normally travel clockwise around the massif. The northern side follows more road-connected terrain, while the southern side is much more remote, crossing open grasslands, valleys, nomad areas, and less-developed tracks. Route conditions are not fixed, so modern trekkers should treat old GPS tracks and maps only as a starting framework rather than as a guaranteed maintained trail.
A full kora may take roughly a week or more, depending on route condition, acclimatization, weather, load, and daily distance. Technically, much of the terrain may be straightforward walking, but the journey should not be described as “low difficulty”: most of it remains above 4,000 m, nights are cold, services are limited, weather can change rapidly, and evacuation from the southern side may be difficult. Good acclimatization, independent navigation, emergency communication, and enough food and fuel are essential.
Crossing Amnye Machen?
Circumambulating the massif and entering its glaciated interior are two completely different objectives. From the surrounding grasslands, some valleys rise toward 4,800-5,000 m and beyond, but once the route approaches permanent snow, glacier ice, unstable moraine, or steep rock, ordinary trekking turns into mountaineering terrain. Elevation alone is not the dividing line; route condition, glacier travel, crevasses, snow, and technical exposure are what matter.
There is no simple trekking pass through the glaciated core of Amnye Machen. On maps, some side valleys and high saddles may suggest possible crossings — including terrain around the Halong (Qiemu) Valley — but these should be treated as expedition route hypotheses, not established trails. Any attempt to connect such valleys should be verified with current satellite imagery, local information, and on-the-ground assessment rather than assumed from topography alone.
Accommodation
Accommodation remains sparse once you leave the main settlements and highway corridor, although options around Dawu, Xueshan, and other road-connected places are better than they were during our first trip. On a full kora or remote side route, camping may still be necessary. However, do not assume that every grassland is automatically open for camping: much of the land is active pastoral territory or part of ecologically protected high-altitude landscapes. Choose low-impact sites, stay away from livestock enclosures and religious places, ask local people when appropriate, and follow any current conservation restrictions.
Food
Again, the only places that you can buy some food, or even eat in one of the several small restaurants, are the villages of Tawo Zholma and Chuwarna. In restaurants, you can enjoy some delicious Tibetan or Sichuan meals. If you plan a trek around the mountain, be sure to prepare enough food, as well as your cooking set, where you can boil water. And if you meet some Tibetans, don’t be surprised if they invite you to try their food- some tsampa, some butter tea, some yak meat or some potatoes.
For a multi-day route, also plan water treatment and cooking fuel carefully. Streams are common in some valleys, but livestock, wildlife, and upstream camps mean that clear-looking water should not automatically be considered safe to drink untreated.
Weather and seasons
Amnye Machen has a cold high-altitude climate, and even summer remains highly variable. July and August are relatively mild and are generally the most practical months for trekking, but rain, sleet, snow, strong wind, fog, and rapid temperature changes are all possible above 4,000 m. We personally experienced summer snowfall here, so a clear morning should never be treated as a guarantee of stable weather.
Summer nights can still approach or fall below freezing, especially at exposed camps. Weather windows may alternate quickly with cloud and precipitation, and climate patterns across the wider Sanjiangyuan region have been becoming warmer and wetter over recent decades. Carry equipment for freezing conditions even if the forecast looks mild. Sanjiangyuan climate monitoring.The other seasons are drier but much colder. And winter is the coldest time of the year. There is not too much snow, but the temperatures can drop to -30°, even lower. Winter travel can also be affected by temporary local restrictions, road closures, or weather-related controls. Do not assume a fixed annual closure around Tibetan New Year; check the specific route shortly before travel.
This is Amnye Machen- a cold, desolate, and incredibly beautiful place. A place where you can enjoy the silence of the endless grassland and its fresh breath, with the majestic snowy giant above it. You will always remember the sunset, the yak herds in the distance, and the friendly local Tibetans you would meet. And if you want to feel what is “the end of the world”- come to Amnye Machen, deep on the Great Tibetan Plateau!
Get more impressions from the video below:
Check some travel books about Tibet:
Disclaimer: Journey Beyond the Horizon is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon and affiliated sites at no additional cost to you.
Like it? Pin it here⇓! Follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram!
You may also like
Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
Krasen and Ying Ying
Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually. So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration. And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality. Enjoy!
