Last updated: October 2026 — major sights, museum access, transport, accommodation registration, the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, and current travel conditions for foreign visitors have been reviewed, while the original first-hand journeys and city impressions are preserved.
Deep in the heart of Asia, on the northeastern edge of the Great Tibetan Plateau, there is a big city under the blue mountain sky. This is Xining, a pearl of several cultures, full of life, and surrounded by highland wilderness. Many historical routes meet around Xining, including branches of the wider Silk Road network that connected the Hexi Corridor, Qinghai, Tibet, and Central Asia. Let’s make a journey to this little known amazing city, let’s reveal its secrets, and enjoy its atmosphere!
Table of Contents
Basic facts about Xining
Xining (西宁) is the capital of Qinghai Province and the largest urban center on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It lies at about 2,200 m altitude in the Huangshui River valley, where the highlands of Qinghai begin to descend toward the Hexi Corridor and the interior of China. Its population includes Han Chinese, Hui Muslims, Tibetans, Tu (Monguor), and other communities, reflecting the city’s long position at the meeting point of Tibetan, Chinese, Mongolic, and Central Asian cultural worlds.
Today, Xining is a modern city with more than 2 million people living there, well-connected to the rest of China. You can see glamorous malls, skyscrapers, along with colorful markets, religious buildings, and parks. Xining is also known as one of the starting points for traveling to Tibet, passing along the stunning Qinghai Lake. One of the most popular roads is the Qinghai-Tibet railroad leading to Lhasa, the capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Region.
But let’s look into the history of this beautiful city.
Altitude note: Xining itself is only moderately high by Tibetan Plateau standards, at around 2,200 m. Most visitors can explore the city normally, and this makes it a useful first acclimatization stop before continuing toward Qinghai Lake at around 3,200 m, Yushu around 3,700 m, or the much higher interior of Golog and the plateau. If you continue rapidly to much higher elevations, increase activity gradually and take symptoms such as persistent headache, nausea, dizziness, or unusual fatigue seriously.
History of Xining
More than 2000 years ago, the valley of Huangshui (Yellow Water) River, a tributary of the famous Yellow River has been just a plain with forests and grasslands. An early version of the Silk Road routes has passed through the valley, leading westward to Caidam and Xinjiang, and southwestward to Tibet.
The Huangshui valley became strategically important during the Han period as Chinese imperial power expanded westward and interacted with Qiang and other peoples of the region. Settlements and military-administrative centers developed here along routes linking the Chinese interior with the highlands and the western regions.
Kingdoms, empires, migrations
During the following centuries, control of the area shifted repeatedly among Chinese dynasties, the Tuyuhun kingdom, the Tibetan Empire, and other regional powers. The name Xining, meaning roughly “Peace in the West,” belongs to a later stage of this long administrative history rather than directly to the earliest settlement.
It was not only a wartime period, but there were many years of peace and prosperity in the region. Muslim merchants, soldiers, officials, and migrants from Central and Western Asia settled in northwestern China over many centuries. Together with local Chinese populations and later migrations, these communities contributed to the formation of the Hui Muslim population that became an important part of Xining and the wider Qinghai-Gansu region. In the 13th century, the Mongols conquered the area, and Xining became a part of the Mongol Empire, from which the Mongol population remained. Thus the ethnic composition of Xining was formed, as well as the image of the city.
Newest history
During the last several centuries, Xining was a part of the Ming and Qing Empires of China, with some periods of independence. In fact, there were local political states, ruled by Ma warlords, mainly in the later years of the Qing and the Republic of China era. But after the Communist revolution in 1949, these states were removed, and Xining was integrated as a regular part of China and a capital of Qinghai Province. It quickly grew into a modern city what it is today, preserving the local multi-ethnical and multi-religious diversity.
And along with it, Xining remained an important gate to the Great Tibetan Plateau.
Why Xining matters geographically: Unlike Lhasa, Xining stands at the transition between lowland China and the Tibetan highlands. From here, routes spread west toward Qinghai Lake and the Qaidam Basin, southwest toward Yushu and the upper Yangtze, south toward Golog and Amnye Machen, southeast toward Rebkong and Labrang, and by rail across the high plateau toward Lhasa. This makes Xining not simply a city to visit, but one of the most useful logistical bases for exploring northeastern Tibet and Qinghai.
Our journey to Xining
All of this was the reason why we included Xining in our journeys in Eastern Tibet. Xining was attractive for us, and it was our exit point from our first Eastern Tibet trip. We drove a rental car on an epic route from Chengdu, through Kangding, Tagong, Yilhun Lhatso Lake, Yushu, Mt. Amnye Machen, and Qinghai Lake. And Xining was the point where we had to drop the car.
We used our time in Xining to try the local food and to buy some spices. During our first visit, we didn’t have enough time to explore it, but on our next Eastern Tibet journey, we successfully walked around its center. We visited one of its landmarks- Dongguan Mosque, and the pedestrian market. We would like to visit much more, as there are many other places to explore, instead, we made a round trip deep inside Eastern Tibet, to places like Labrang Monastery, Taktsang Lhamo, Zoige Grasslands, Jiuzhaigou valleys, Mt. Nyenbo Yurtse, and again to Amnye Machen and Qinghai Lake.
Get more impressions from our video journey:
But let’s see the places that we visited, and that we want to visit next time- the places that best present the image of Xining.
Places to visit in Xining
So, if your journey includes Xining, what places to visit there in order to “taste and experience” this city best? These places are where you can explore the best of Xining- its modern image, its ethnic and religious diversity, and the nature of the area. Let’s start at the center.
The center of Xining
Xining is prolonged on the valley of Huangshui River (黄水河), and its center is divided by the right tributary Nanchuan River. The area west of the river is called Chengxi (城西- “Western part of the city”), and what is east of the river is “Chengzhong (城中- “The center of the city”). Yes, you can expect the “Eastern part of the city”, and there really is (in Chinese- Chengdong， 城东), but it is not so “central” like Chengxi.
So, you can start your walk from the Central Square (市中广场）at the Nanchuan River, where you can feel the modern spirit of Xining. It is a great place for photos- photos of the cityscape, and photos of various people, including those who dance every day under live music.
Then, you can head westward on the modern streets of Xining. If you are looking for something special, go to Xinning Plaza, another square-park site with quite impressive decorations. It is surrounded by a lot of malls, restaurants, shopping and entertainment places. But while you are on this site, don’t skip the Qinghai Provincial Museum- an important point where you can learn more about the city and its region, before you proceed further to explore.
Qinghai Provincial Museum （青海省博物馆）
Qinghai Provincial Museum is one of the best places to understand the archaeology, history, cultural exchanges, and ethnic traditions of Qinghai before continuing deeper onto the Tibetan Plateau. The museum is fully open again. Its permanent exhibitions are free, but visitors normally need a real-name reservation through the official “青海省博物馆” WeChat account. Opening hours can be extended during the summer season, so check the current schedule before visiting.
Now, let’s cross the Nanchuan River and go to the Chengzhong area, the central part of Xining. There are more malls, more shops, more restaurants, and more entertainment, but there are also several spots worth visiting.
Gongchen Gate （拱辰门）
You can walk to the northern part of Chengzhong, and you will see Gongchen Gate. It is not far from the confluence of the two rivers- Nanchuan and Huangshui. This is a remnant of the old wall of Xining, and Gongchen Gate is the city’s northern gate. Of course, today it is renovated, and it is surrounded by a small park and city boulevards. It is a nice place to relax and photos, in a bit historical atmosphere.
Then, you can proceed east-southeastward, until you arrive at another historical site- the residence of Ma Bufang
Ma Bufang Residence (马步芳公馆，called also Qinghai Folk Art Museum)
Ma Bufang was one of the most powerful Muslim warlords of Republican-era northwestern China and governed Qinghai from 1938 until 1949. His administration promoted road building, education, military organization, and aspects of urban modernization in Xining, but his rule was also strongly authoritarian and closely tied to regional warfare. During the Second Sino-Japanese War, Ma Bufang also committed Qinghai troops to the Chinese war effort. Cavalry units under General Ma Biao fought major battles against Japanese forces farther east in China and inflicted heavy losses on them, while Xining itself was subjected to Japanese air raids in 1941. Ma Bufang’s forces were also involved in earlier and separate conflicts with Tibetan armies along Qinghai’s southern frontier.
The residence is a large courtyard complex dating from the Republican period and is preserved as a historic site connected with Ma Bufang and the political history of Qinghai. Its visitor status, exhibitions, and opening arrangements have changed over time, so check locally before planning a visit rather than relying on the old 30 CNY ticket information.
Now, turn south-southwest. Not far from Ma Bufang Residence is one of the most popular landmarks of Xining- Dongguan Mosque.
Dongguan Mosque （东关大清真寺）
There is a significant Muslim population in Xining, consisting mainly of Hui people. Consequently, there are at least several active mosques in the city. The largest of them is the Dongguan Mosque, which has become a city’s landmark, mainly due to its architecture.
Dongguan Mosque has a history reaching back to the Ming period and remains one of Xining’s most important Muslim religious landmarks. However, its appearance has changed since our visit. The large green dome and tall minarets that dominated the modern entrance building in our photographs were removed and redesigned during reconstruction beginning in 2021, while the older protected mosque structures remained. The mosque is still active today, so visitors should treat it first as a functioning place of worship rather than simply as a tourist attraction.
There are several other religious sites, all of them active, but with less tourist value like Nanguan Mosque, Shuicheng Gate Mosque, Dafo Temple, and Confucian Temple. But one of the places you should not miss is the Mojia Pedestrian Market.
Mojia Pedestrian Market (莫家街)
This is not just a place for shopping. Yes, if you like shopping, you can enjoy it here, especially if you are looking for local spices and other kinds of food. But even if you don’t like shopping, the place is worth visiting just to dive into the local spirit of the city. As we all know, local markets are good places to taste local life everywhere in the world.
And before we leave the center of Xining, let’s go to its southern “edge”, where we can find another historic place- a beautiful park with remnants from the Tang Dynasty.
City Wall Relics Park of Tang Dynasty (青唐城遗址公园)
Tang Dynasty has ruled China between the 7th and 10th centuries, including Xining. Although Xining hasn’t been a part of the Tang Empire all the time but has been also conquered by Tuyuhun and the Tibetan Empire, Tangs have built strong walls around the city, and here is the place where you can see some of their remains. Some of these remains are renovated and turned into a decorative part of the park.
Now, it is time to explore the suburbs of Xining. Let’s head to the north.
The north suburbs of Xining
This area consists of two mountains, separated by the Beichuan River, a left tributary to Huangshui River. There is a city district along the river, and both sides of the river are not urban but natural. Here we can find some interesting sites.
And here in the urban area around the Beichuan River, you can visit two modern museums, dedicated to Tibet and life in Tibet.
China Tibetan Medicine Culture Museum (青海藏文化博物院)
This large museum complex began with a strong focus on Tibetan medicine and later expanded into broader exhibitions on Tibetan culture, art, astronomy, medicine, calligraphy, and daily life. It remains one of the most useful cultural introductions for travelers heading from Xining toward the Tibetan areas of Qinghai. Ticket systems and individual exhibition fees can change, so check the current information directly rather than relying on the old 60 CNY price.
Tibetan Plateau Natural History Museum (青藏高原自然博物馆)
This museum is only about 100 m away from the China Tibetan Medicine Culture Museum, just on the other side of the boulevard. As its name suggests, it is dedicated to the nature of the Great Tibetan Plateau. The museum has three floors and several halls, presenting various species of animals and plants from this region, and their natural habitat. You can also see some stones and crystals from the salt lakes. Check the current opening arrangements and ticket information before visiting, as these can change between exhibitions and seasons.
Now, let’s go to the mountain east of the Beichuan River. It is called Beishan (literally- “North Mountain”). And the most significant site on its foot is the North Mountain Temple, called also Tulou Temple.
North Mountain Temple (土楼观北山寺)
This is a Taoist temple, like many other Taoist temples in China, with halls, pavilions, gates, and a pagoda. But there is something different. Initially, it has been a Buddhist temple, built somewhere in the 2nd century AD. During the next centuries, Taoism prevailed and it gradually turned to this religion.
However, the most significant feature of this temple is its location at the foot and on the slopes of the red-sand North Mountain. Some of its buildings are dug into the red cliffs. For safety reasons, some of the paths leading to these buildings are closed, but you can still see them from below.
This is only the first and closed to the city attraction on the North Mountain. But there is more. You can go above the eastern part of Xining and hike the North Mountain above it. While you do it, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the city and the mountains beyond it. And this is only the beginning of the mountain. If you want to get deeper, you have to travel northward to the areas of Tu minority, where you can enjoy the amazing Huzhu Beishan National Geopark.
Now, let’s cross the city and go to its southern suburb areas.
The southern suburbs of Xining
Again, this area is divided by the Nanchuan River. The mountains on both sides are not too high, but they are distant branches of the majestic mountain ranges of the Great Tibetan Plateau. And there are some interesting sites worth visiting there.
Nanchan Temple (南禅寺)
This is the first place you can see beyond the center of Xining, right beside the Nanchuan River. Nanchan Temple is a Buddhist religious complex, initially built during the North Song Dynasty, between the 10th and 12th centuries, and renovated during the Qing Dynasty, some 150-200 years ago. It is a typical Buddhist temple, but what makes it worth visiting is its location over the Nanchuan River, with stunning views of the city below. And of course, its historical side is also interesting.
If you proceed further above the temple, you can enjoy Nanshan Park.
Nanshan Park (南山公园)
It is located on the hills behind the Nanchan Temple, called Phoenix Mountain. The park is just like all those beautiful parks around China, full of various decorations. But what makes it worth visiting, is the views of the city from above. And of course, such a park offers a nice relaxing atmosphere.
Let’s cross the Nanchuan River and explore the hills west of it. There is another mountain park, with the Xining TV Tower built on it. There is also a Botanical Garden. But the most attractive part of this park is the Tibet Plateau Wildlife Zoo.
Tibet Plateau Wildlife Zoo (青藏高原野生动物园)
Xining’s wildlife park focuses strongly on animals of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau, including species such as snow leopards, wolves, bears, wild ungulates, and other high-altitude wildlife. It also includes a panda facility. Conditions and exhibits have changed since our original visit, so my old impressions of individual enclosures should be treated as historical rather than as a current assessment. Check current ticket and opening information locally.
This is the most important of Xining. Maybe I could add the Science and Technology Museum, located in the western part of the city- yes, it is spectacular and interesting, but it is not a part of our main topic- the geographical and historical exploration of Xining. Instead, let’s go out of the city. There are so many amazing areas, mostly mountains and lakes, like Qilian Mountain, Qinghai Lake, Chaka Salt Lake, Rebkong, Tu Minority area, and many more, but they are already parts of other itineraries.
However, we should visit one site that is out of Xining, at the same time like a part of it, because it has become one of its landmarks. This is Ta’er (Kumbum) Monastery.
Ta’er (Kumbum) Monastery (塔尔寺)
Kumbum (Ta’er) Monastery is one of the great monasteries of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism and one of the most important religious sites in Amdo. The sacred tradition of the site is connected with Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug school, who was born in this area in the 14th century. A monastery complex gradually developed around the earlier sacred site and became one of the major centers of Tibetan Buddhist learning in northeastern Tibet. Today, it presents a lot of buildings in Han and Tibetan architectural styles. Among them, the most significant are The Great Hall of the Golden Roof and the Great Hall of Meditation.
Ta’er (Kumbum) Monastery is a large active religious complex in Huangzhong, southwest of central Xining, surrounded by a developed visitor area with restaurants, shops, and accommodation. Public transport and taxis connect it with Xining, but bus routes and ticket prices change, so check the current connection and entrance arrangements shortly before your visit.
These are the places to visit in Xining. But to taste this city in full, you have to try its local cuisine.
The local cuisine of Xining
Xining is delicious, really! And it is no strange for such a place with a mix of cultures. Han Chinese bring their typical Chinese meals with rice, noodles, boiled vegetables, and some spicy Sichuan-style meat snacks. Hui Muslims bring their Islam-inspired “no pork” food, including the eastern version of the western bread. Tibetans and Mongols bring their yak meals with milk products. As a result, you can enjoy a lot of yummy breakfast, lunch, and dinner, not only in the luxury restaurant but also just on the street.
Some of the typical Xining meals include:
- Finger Mutton. It is boiled mutton meat, coming from the herdsmen on the Great Tibetan Plateau. You use your fingers and a knife to separate it from the bones, then use salt, some spice, and some vegetables in addition, for a better taste.
- Xining Yoghurt. The Xining version of yogurt is thicker than most other yogurts, with something like a cream on the surface.
- Niangpi. It is a very delicious flour-made snack, especially for those who like spicy food. Niangpi looks like “giant noodles”, and is always mixed with various spices and vinegar.
- Beef noodles soup. It is another delicious meal, usually served for breakfast. Again, there are some fragrant spices in the soup.
There are many other delicious things, but the above are the most typical for Xining and the area.
Where you can find local food
There are many restaurants and fast food stalls where you can try the local food of Xining. You can also find food courts in every mall in the city. However, if you want something more exotic, again, you should go to the Mojia Pedestrian Street market. Here, besides the dry spices, you can enjoy restaurants, fast food, and snacks with the typical Xining meals. Another place is Shuijing Alley, another pedestrian street, mostly covered, not far from the Mojia and the Nanchuan River.
All of this is great, but Xining is not a small city. Let’s take a look at transportation, how to move between your entry and exit points, your place for accommodation, and all the interesting places to visit and eat.
Transportation in Xining
As Xining is the capital of Qinghai Province, it is well-connected to the rest of the world.
How to reach Xining
Xining Caojiabao International Airport connects the city with a broad network of major Chinese cities, making flying the fastest way to reach Qinghai from eastern or southern China. International and seasonal routes change frequently, so check the current airport schedule rather than relying on the old destination list in this article.
A more geographically interesting way to reach or leave Xining is by train. The city is one of the principal railway gateways between eastern China, Xinjiang, and the Tibetan Plateau, and it is the northern starting point of the high-altitude Qinghai-Tibet Railway toward Golmud and Lhasa. Train frequencies change with demand, so use the official China Railway 12306 website or app for the current timetable and ticket availability. You can also travel by bus, but buses travel shorter distances to and from Xining. Long-distance buses connect Xining with many cities and towns across Qinghai and neighboring provinces, but for very long journeys from Xinjiang or eastern China, rail and air are generally the more practical options. For long-distance rail connections, check the current timetable through China Railway 12306.
Check for transport to Xining!
Foreign-traveler note: A train ticket to Lhasa does not replace the travel authorization required for foreign visitors to enter the Tibet Autonomous Region. Foreign travelers must arrange a Tibet Travel Permit through an authorized travel agency and travel under the applicable organized-tour rules before boarding for the TAR. For current official tourism information and licensed operators, check the Tibet Autonomous Region Department of Culture and Tourism, and confirm the exact permit procedure with your authorized Tibet tour operator before booking the onward journey.
Finally, you can include Xining as a part of your Eastern Tibet itinerary by rental car. It is how we visited Xining for the first time, from Chengdu. To drive independently in mainland China, you need a valid Chinese driving licence or an eligible temporary Chinese driving permit; an International Driving Permit alone is not sufficient. Otherwise, hiring a vehicle with a local driver remains the simplest option for an Eastern Tibet road journey. For current entry, transport, and practical information for foreign visitors, the Chinese government’s Guide to Working and Living in China is a useful official starting point.
Local transport in Xining
Once you arrive in Xining, you would like to set your route to your hotel, to a restaurant, or straight to the places of interest, depending on your schedule. And if you want to start from the center, the best way would be to go to a certain starting point- Central Square, Mojia Street or somewhere in the middle. And the easiest way to do it is by public bus, or by taxi.
Bus
Xining has an extensive urban bus network, and public transport remains an inexpensive way to move between the center, railway station, museums, parks, and outer districts. However, route numbers and fares can change as the city grows. Use a current Chinese navigation app such as Amap (Gaode Maps) or Baidu Maps, or ask locally for the best route rather than relying on the 2020 bus numbers listed in the original article.
Taxi
Taxis and app-based ride-hailing are convenient for places outside the walkable center, especially the northern museums, wildlife park, and routes toward Huangzhong. Fares depend on distance, traffic, and the current platform pricing, so use the metered fare or current app quotation rather than the old prices in this article.
Walk
This is the best way to explore the center of Xining. You can walk around the whole of the center, and use a bus or a taxi just for some shortcuts. And finally, it is the best (and the only) way to climb the nearby mountains and enjoy the city from above.
Now, let’s take a look at the accommodation.
Accommodation
Xining has a broad accommodation market, from large hotels to budget properties and hostels. The old practice of some hotels saying that they were “not qualified to accept foreigners” should no longer be treated as a normal rule: Chinese authorities have explicitly required accommodation providers not to restrict foreign guests on that basis. Hotels register your passport information at check-in. You can read the current official accommodation guidance for foreign visitors in China’s Guide for Foreign Businesspersons Working and Living in China. It is still sensible to confirm that a small property is actually operating before arrival, especially if you book through an older listing.
Location
If you are a budget traveler and want to save money on taxis, the central areas around Chengzhong remain convenient for both sightseeing and access to Xining Railway Station. The station can become very busy, especially during holidays and the summer travel season, so allow enough time for security checks, passport and ticket verification, and finding the correct waiting area. Check your train and ticket status through the official China Railway 12306 service before departure.
Find your Xining accommodation on Booking!
Find your Xining accommodation on Agoda!
Staying outside a hotel
If you stay in a private apartment, guest accommodation, or another place that is not a hotel, your stay must still be registered within 24 hours. Since September 2026, foreign travelers or their hosts can use the National Immigration Administration’s online services for temporary-accommodation registration where available, including the NIA 12367 platform, while in-person registration with the local public security authorities remains available. For the current procedure and immigration services, check the National Immigration Administration or use the official NIA 12367 app / WeChat / Alipay mini program.
Hostels
As a traveler, I have a strong affinity for hostels. Yes, usually, privacy in hostels is decreased, but on the other side, these are the best places to meet other travelers, to share your experience with each other, and to make friends. Besides, hostels are always attractive and arrange to provide a nice time with a beer or a coffee in their bars. Finally, here you can find the best information about how to go here and there, they can also arrange trips in various directions, including a private car.
During our journeys, Xining had an active hostel scene, and we personally used Heng Yu International Hostel. Individual hostel brands and listings change quickly, so treat the names below as part of our original travel experience rather than as a current shortlist. For present-day accommodation availability, check a current booking platform such as Trip.com before arrival.
On our second trip to Eastern Tibet, we hired a van from one of the hostels in Xining- Xining Heng Yu International Hostel. We had an excellent experience, and our driver Ma Long (a local Mongolian) was a great person, just as a friend.
Check the availability in Heng Yu International Hostel!
We have traveled to Xining two times, and we had always a nice experience there. Then, we left this city by train to Lanzhou and the eastern parts of China. But Xining remains a place that we still want to visit, making it a starting point for more journeys and adventures to this part of Asia.
Get more impressions of Xining from the video below:
Take a look at some books about Xining, Qinghai Province and Tibet!
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
Krasen and Ying Ying
Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually. So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration. And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality. Enjoy!
