Giant mountains, with deep valleys, covered by gorgeous alpine forests. Snowcapped peaks and crystal lakes. Tranquil meadows with yurts and horses roaming free. This is the Terskey Alatau (Terskey Alatoo) Mountains, one of the most beautiful ranges in the Tian Shan, located in Kyrgyzstan. The best way to immerse yourself in their mountain world is to go on a trek. And one of the best treks in these mountains is called Trek Ala-Kul. Read further for all the information you need to make this trek and fully enjoy it.
Table of Contents
About Terskey Alatau
Let’s open the map of Central Asia. We can see a giant chain of mountain ranges, stretching from southwest (where they connect to the Himalayas and Tibet) to the northeast. The largest of them is Tian Shan, a mountain system that consists of many sub-ranges, from the easternmost parts of Uzbekistan, through most of Kyrgyzstan and the far southeast of Kazakhstan, deep into Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in China.
One of these subranges is called the Terskey Alatau Mountains. It stretches from west to east for more than 350 km, and its highest point is Karakol Peak (5216 m). Terskey Alatau surrounds Lake Issyk-Kul from the south and southeast.
Terskey Alatau is best known for its northern valleys, descending from the main summit of the range to Lake Issyk Kul and its tributaries Zhyrgalan and Tyup rivers in the east. These valleys are separated by ridges that branch to the north from the main summit and are covered by gorgeous alpine coniferous forests. The forests in the lower zones, combined with the alpine steppes and snow-capped peaks above them, create majestic and fantastic landscapes, attracting adventurous travelers from all over the world.
Terskey Alatau Treks
A lot of treks are established in the Terskey Alatau. They start from the northern foot of the mountains- from the main southern road connecting the city of Karakol with Balykchy, and the road east of Karakol. Each trek follows a mountain valley, ascends to a certain point, leaves the main river of the valley, reaches the mountain pass between this valley and the neighboring one, and descends to the neighboring valley.
These treks can be merged into longer treks. Many hikers cross not one but several mountain passes and the valleys between them, descending to the valley of their choice.
My choice: Trek Ala-Kul
It was a part of my epic Pamir Highway adventure from Dushanbe, Tajikistan, to Osh, Kyrgyzstan. But I didn’t end up in Osh. Instead, I proceeded to cross Kyrgyzstan through the middle and reached the region of Lake Issyk Kul and the largest city in this region- Karakol.
I couldn’t skip the breathtaking landscapes of the Terskey Alatau Mountains, and I decided to choose one of the treks south of Karakol and Lake Issyk Kul. Since my focus in this journey wasn’t exclusively this region but some of the best places in two countries, I had to choose only one trek. All of them are fantastic, but my choice was the most popular one, with a plan to come back again one day and try the other, less popular and wilder treks.
Trek Ala-Kul- basic description
Trek Ala-Kul is famous for a reason. It is one of the most beautiful treks in the whole of Asia (and Europe), mostly due to the fantastic gem on its course- Lake Ala-Kul. The other treks are beautiful and more off-the-beaten path, but they lack such lakes.
The whole trek is 48 km long. It starts (or ends) directly from the city of Karakol (1920 m), follows the valley of Karakol River to a point called Alp Camp Karakol (2530 m), leaves the river, and ascends steeply to Sirota Yurt Camp (2950 m). From there, it proceeds upward, following a stream called Kurgak Tor and reaches the northern shores of Lake Ala-Kul (3550 m).
From Lake Ala-Kul, the trail ascends above the lake and crosses Ala-Kul Pass (3920 m). Then, it descends to the neighboring valley of the Arashan River. It reaches the river at 2580 m and turns northward, following the river. Not far from this point is the hot spring resort of Altyn Arashan (2520 m). The final section of the route descends on a 15 km dirt road beside the Arashan River to the village of Ak-Suu (1980 m).
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Trek Ala-Kul in detail
Now, let’s follow the route of the trek, starting from Karakol and ending in Ak-Suu. Of course, you can choose the other direction (from Ak-Suu to Karakol). Both directions are great and have some slight pros and cons (more on that later).
Karakol
Karakol is the fourth largest city in Kyrgyzstan and it is the main starting point of most treks in the Terskey Alatau. While the other treks start from different points (not directly from Karakol), the trek Ala-Kul starts immediately from the city. More precisely- from Absamat Masaliyev street.
But you don’t need to walk the whole street to reach the mountain. There is a public transport- marshrutka (minibus) No. 1. You can easily find it in the center and travel on it until its last stop (1920 m). Proceed walking to the entrance gate of Karakol Nature Park– just 400 m from the bus stop. Here you pay a 300 som entrance fee, and you can proceed further. This is the beginning of the Karakol Valley.
Karakol Valley
From the entrance gate, you have to walk on a dirt road. After about 6,3 km, the road reaches a damaged wooden bridge over Karakol River (2120 m). This is the endpoint for every transport from Karakol. I personally traveled by a jeep from my hostel in Karakol, and the driver took me to this point (you can walk on it but it is a bit boring- you add more than an hour to your hike in an area with some villas and other buildings here and there).
From the wooden bridge, there is a 9,6 km section on the same dirt road but from the other side of the river. You can see a few vehicles (old vans and SUVs) sometimes on this road that are probably stuck (or doomed) to travel only on this section, at least until the bridge to Karakol is repaired.
This section of the road is nice and easy to walk (sometimes, you have to cross mountain streams and your shoes can get wet if the water is too deep). You ascend slowly through the forest and meadows, watching the breathtaking alpine views everywhere.
But the most beautiful part of this section is the last 3 km. Here the valley gets wider and the river calmer, like a small lake- a great place for relaxation in the middle of a fantastic mountain picture! Finally, after the last two curves, the road reaches Alp Camp Karakol (2530 m) beside a furious river rapid- a yurt camp where you can spend the night.
From Karakol Valley to Lake Ala-Kul
From Alp Camp Karakol, the dirt road proceeds further against the current of Karakol River, turns into a narrow trail, reaches East Ontor Glacier and Etyura Pass (4340 m) at the main summit of Terskey Alatau, then descends on the other side of the mountain range and reaches Engilchek, the starting point for reaching Mount Han Tengri- an epic, much more demanding multiday trek. But our Ala-Kul trek route leaves the dirt road and starts ascending steeply to the summit between the Karakol and Arashan rivers.
Here, you cross the Karakol River on a new beautiful wooden bridge and start hiking on a narrow trail. What follows is a steep ascent, first through the upper part of the forest zone. Soon, the forest gradually disappears and you can enjoy fantastic views of the steep Aitor valley (a sub-branch of Karakol Valley).
Sirota Yurt Camp
After about an hour and a half steep ascent (2,5 km), you reach Sirota Yurt Camp. It is a nice place providing accommodation in an alpine bush area (2950 m). There is a small lake with drinkable water.
From Sirota, the trail proceeds ascending and follows a mountain stream called Kurgak Tor which starts from Lake Ala-Kul and flows into the Sirota lake. In the beginning, it is not too steep but after less than an hour, the ascent gets challenging. The last trees disappear, as well as the last bush, and finally, there are only cliffs, rocks, alpine grass, and steep stream rapids.
The last part of this section is the steepest. Here the trail ascends beside a waterfall that comes out directly from Lake Ala-Kul. Finally, you see the turquoise water of the lake- a fantastic view as a great reward for all the efforts on the challenging trail.
The section from Sirota Yurt Camp to the first yurt camp of Lake Ala-Kul is 2,6 km but due to its steepness, you would normally need at least 2 and a half hours to accomplish it.
Lake Ala-Kul
It is one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in Central Asia. Ala-Kul (Ala-Kol) is a rock-dammed lake, and its surface is at 3532 m altitude. The lake shores are very steep and difficult to reach but there are some flat places on the northern slopes above the lake. This is where a few camps are established.
The first camp is located at the rock dam area. It is a small camp with several local tents and spots for your own tent. About a kilometer further, you reach an area with four camps and places for tents. If you want to spend the night at Lake Ala Kol, this is the best place to do it, with the best views of the lake and the surrounding alpine mountains. There is also a source with fresh cold drinkable water.
An off-the-beaten-path wild trail follows the lake shore and proceeds further to the glacier area around the main summit of Terskey Alatau, where it branches into a few more trails (with high difficulty), with a connection to the trail to Engilchek and Han Tengri. But the main Ala-Kul trek route ascends above the lake and after almost 2 km and about an hour and a half ascending reaches Ala-Kul Pass (3920 m).
Ala-Kul Pass
This is the highest point of the trek. Ala-Kul Pass is located on the ridge between Karakol and Arashan rivers- from here, you enter the Arashan basin. Needless to say, this is a point with one of the most fantastic views on the trek, including Lake Ala-Kul down below.
From Ala-Kul Pass to Altyn Arashan
It is a long descent- from 3920 to 2520 m altitude, more than 10 km in length. In this direction, most of the hike is easy, so you can accomplish it in less than 3 hours.
Keep in mind the first few hundred meters! This is probably the most dangerous part of the whole hike- a short but very steep descent on a slope like a wall. Once you pass it, the rest is a real pleasure.
There is a new yurt camp at 3610 m- another nice place to stay, called Ala-Kul Ak Sai’s campsite. What follows is a smooth and easy descent on the alpine grasslands of Kel-Dike stream valley, a tributary of Arashan River.
Around the 6th kilometer after Ala-Kul Pass, the trail crosses to the other side of the stream. Be careful here- there is no bridge, you have to step on river stones and if the water is high, it can be challenging!
Soon after crossing the stream, the trail descends again into the alpine forest zone with picturesque local yurts in some meadows.
Finally, you reach the Arashan River. Another off-the-beaten trail on the right goes against the river current to the summit of Terskey Alatau, but our trail proceeds in the opposite direction downward. It crosses Kel-Dike stream again, this time on a wooden bridge (actually, a fallen tree), and after about 30 minutes reaches Altyn Arashan, crossing into the other side of Arashan River.
Altyn Arashan
Altyn Arashan (2520 m) is a popular hot spring resort, located in a picturesque alpine area in the valley of Arashan River. Today, it has several guesthouses and several yurt camps. There are also several hot spring pools, some of them indoor, others- outdoor (the outdoor ones are more romantic, with stunning views of the surrounding alpine landscape).
The water temperature of the hot springs is 38°C and you can reserve a 30-minute stay in the pool (you normally can’t stay longer- it is too hot). It is a great reward after the challenging trek.
Altyn Arashan is a starting point for other treks, including the route to the neighboring Ak-Suu valley. But the main route of the Ala-Kul Trek descends on the dirt road to the village of Ak Suu.
From Altyn Arashan to Ak Suu (Teploklyuchenka)
The section from Altyn Arashan to Ak Suu is the easiest part of the trek. It is a 15 km dirt road, slowly descending to the exit of Arashan Valley.
Be careful at the beginning of this section- the dirt road branches into several roads. Most of them merge 1-2 km further but the highest of them turn into a totally different direction with a dead end. So, hold the lower branches until they merge. Everything else further downward is easy.
This road is even a bit busy, because it is connected to civilization. You can often see SUVs or local “truck-buses”- an iconic local form of tourist vehicle that is made as a truck with a bus cabin.
Finally, the road exits the alpine valley and descends into a small village. About 2 km further, it reaches the paved road connecting the village of Ak Suu (Teploklyuchenka) with Ak Suu Sanatorium and hot spring resort. Here, at this junction, is the endpoint of the trek. It is a public marshrutka (minibus) stop, and from here, you can take a marshrutka to return to Karakol.
Route directions
So, what is the better option for the trek- from Ak Suu through Altyn Arashan and Lake Ala-Kul to Karakol, or vice versa?
Both options are great but there are some small differences.
If you start from Karakol and end at Ak Suu, you will experience a steeper ascent, especially above Sirota Yurt Camp. Passing this section would be more difficult but a bit safer- ascending on steep slopes is always safer than descending.
At the same time, the short steep section below Ala-Kul Pass is a bit safer when you ascend it when your route is from Ak Suu to Karakol. But later, the long descent to Sirota Yurt Camp and below can be more demanding.
If you start from Karakol, you have to pay 300 som at the entrance gate. But if you start from Ak Suu, there is no entrance gate and you will not pay anything.
I personally chose the option from Karakol to Ak Suu and I had a great experience. The way the landscapes changed and followed one after another was fantastic in this direction but it would be no less fantastic in the opposite direction.
Itinerary
Normally, most people do it for 3 days and 2 nights. There are enough places to sleep on the way to arrange it in this way.
On my first day, I started from Karakol and reached Lake Ala-Kul where I spent the night in a tent (I rented it from my hostel in Karakol). On the next day, I reached Altyn Arashan and stayed there, and on the third day, I descended to Ak Suu and back to Karakol.
I am not in the best shape. A lot of younger and trained hikers walk faster than me. But I still could do it even for two days and one night (at the lake shore), because I reached Altyn Arashan in the early afternoon- I had enough time to proceed for another 3 hours downward, on the easiest part of the route, to Ak Suu. I wasn’t tired.
However, I wanted to have enough time to enjoy the fantastic scenery around me! When I reached Altyn Arashan, I chose to find a nice and quiet place (Altyn Arashan was full of tourist crowds on that day) and just relax in silence. I knew that I didn’t have such an opportunity every day!
I know some strong, fit young people who have done it even within one day, without staying at night, for about 14-15 hours of constant, fast walking. But even if I were in a perfect shape and strong like them, I would never do it in this way- I am not sure if they had even a little time to enjoy the mountain around them! But everybody has different preferences- some people focus mostly just on the sport and their own “glory of achievement”, and that’s ok for them.
Transportation
There are enough transportation options to take you to and from the endpoints of the route. As mentioned above, you can take marshrutka No. 1 from the center of Karakol and quickly reach the gate of Karakol Nature Park. Or, if you choose the other direction, you can take marshrutka No. 350, again from the center of Karakol and reach directly the starting point of the dirt road to Altyn Arashan, south of Ak Suu (Teploklyuchenka).
This is the classical version of your adventure. But there are also options to shorten your hike by skipping the sections on the dirt roads. However, it can happen only by high clearance vehicles.
On the dirt road in Karakol Valley
As mentioned above, you can arrange an SUV transport from your accommodation in Karakol to the broken wooden bridge (6,3 km from the gate of the Nature Park). There is also “locked” transportation between the wooden bridge and the Alp Camp Karakol.
Normally, if you use it, you have to contact the Alp Camp in advance and they will come to the wooden bridge to take you and your luggage. They make a connection with another vehicle from Karakol to the wooden bridge, move the luggage from the first to the second vehicle with their hands, and proceed further with the second vehicle.
On the dirt road to Altyn Arashan
This road is connected to the rest of the world but again, due to its condition, only high clearance vehicles can go on it. There are three types of vehicles here:
- “Bus-truck” (UAZ-452 “Bukhanka”). These are old Soviet style military trucks, now adapted to carry passengers. They can carry between 6 and 10 passengers. The total price in one direction is 15,000 som (about 172 USD), and it can be shared between passengers. Due to their uniqueness, they became iconic for this route.
- Small high clearance vans- again an old Soviet style type of vehicle. The total price in one direction is 8000 som (about 92 USD). They can carry 5 to 8 passengers. Again they can share the price.
- Private local SUVs and vans. They belong to the local Kyrgyz- accommodation workers, forestry personnel, or just private tourists’ vehicles. You can try to hitchhike them. If they have a space, they usually can take you. In return, they can expect some money.
Horse riding
It is not just a “tourist attraction” but also a way of transportation on this trek. Horses can go much further beyond the dirt roads. There are only 1-2 sections where they don’t go because these sections are too extreme. It includes the short steep section directly below Ala-Kul Pass.
So, you can go horse riding from Ak Suu no further than the yurt camp below Ala-Kul Pass, then, you can proceed only on foot to Sirota Yurt camp, where you can find another horse waiting for you (pre-arranged in advance).
Keep in mind that this activity is very exciting but also quite expensive- you can expect more than 100 USD per day (this includes everything, as well as the food of the horseman, accommodation, etc.), depending on the route, the length, and more factors.
Accommodation
Besides the basic accommodation in Karakol (your “base camp”- starting and ending point for this route), there are places to sleep in several spots on the route. They are as follows:
- Alp Camp Karakol (“Karakol” tent camp Ak-Sai Travel). Located at 2530 m altitude. It is operated by Ak Sai travel company. Price: 100 USD per person, including accommodation and food in a double tent. For a single tent without food- 20 USD. They also arrange the transport from the broken wooden bridge to the camp. You can make a reservation from here.
- Sirota Yurt Camp. Located at 2950 m. It is operated by several tour operators: Destination Karakol, CBT Karakol, Kyrgyz Life, and AdventuresKG. Price: 45 USD (including breakfast and dinner, no lunch). For lunch only- 800 som.
- Lake Ala-Kul campsites. There are no official permanent camps at the shores of Lake Ala-Kul but only campsites with a few permanent tents, only for the high season. You can’t make a reservation there and you can negotiate the price when you arrive.
- Ala-Kul’s Ak Sai campsite (3610 m). Another campsite operated by Ak Sai Tour. Price and ways of reservation are the same as Alp Camp Karakol.
- Altyn Arashan (2520 m). A large hot spring resort with a few guesthouses and yurt camps. The guesthouses include: Ala-Kul guesthouse (18-20 USD), Elza Guesthouse (20 USD), and Arashan Hotel (50 USD). Yurt camps: Altyn Arashan’s Ak Sai yurt camp (same prices as Alp Camp Karakol and Ala-Kul camp), Ethno Yurt camp – 90 USD for a double tent, Abai Yurt Camp- 65 USD for a double tent. For reservations- follow their websites, Facebook, or Instagram accounts. Arashan Hotel can be booked on Booking.com.
Wild camping
This is another excellent option to spend the night during your Ala-Kul trek. The good news is that you can bring your tent and install it everywhere you want! You only have to pay 100 som at the entrance gate of the camp, and that’s all.
I brought my tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad, and installed my camping gear in one of the wild campsites at the shores of Lake Ala-Kul. It was a fantastic experience to watch the twilight over the giant mountains, to observe the cosmos from the tent, and to welcome the sunrise over the turquoise waters of the lake!
And you can install your tent everywhere else, if you can find a flat platform for it. Just don’t forget about safety. Although predators like wolves, brown bears, and snow leopards are extremely rare in this region, it is still possible to be attracted by your food at night, if you stay somewhere alone. So, a good idea would be to be at least not far from local nomads’ yurts with their herds (and dogs).
Mobile signal
Except for the first and the last 2-3 km of the route, there is no mobile signal on the Ala-Kul Trek. No internet, no phone calls, nothing, even in Altyn Arashan! So, download one or two offline maps of the route, at least to know where your location is!
Seasons
First, and most important- Ala-Kul trek is a summer trek- from June to late September! Out of this season, we are talking about something very different.
The Ala-Kul trek in summer
All of the things that we have described above are about summer- transportation, accommodation, the trail conditions, etc. Except for a few last melting spots of snow, mostly at the immediate northern slope beyond Ala-Kul Pass, the terrain is snowless.
The Ala-Kul trek is very popular. You don’t need a guide because it is very clear (especially if you download offline maps). Although a bit difficult (and dangerous in some short sections), it is perfectly ok to make it solo. Actually, you certainly will not be alone. You will meet hikers (from all over the world, not only locals!) all the time. Yurt camps will usually be full, and there will be a lot of tents in the campsites along the shores of Lake Ala-Kul.
Beware of thunderstorms!
The biggest concern in summer is the thunderstorms. I was caught by a severe thunderstorm in the last 200 m before the first campsite at Lake Ala-Kul, and it was scary. In the high mountains, stormy clouds can appear for minutes. And in my case, the thunderstorm was not just with rain but also with hail and strong winds. But the scariest part was the lightning!
I was in an open area, in the middle of the last very steep slope before the natural rock dam of the lake. I couldn’t move fast anywhere. Blinding lightning fell just beside me. Fortunately, the tents of the first camp were very close and I immediately went there to hide.
I saw happy Kyrgyz locals inside with a few trekkers who drank hot tea. Although their tent was directly exposed to the lightning, they were not afraid- they just said “It’s God’s work, if He wants, He will protect us”.
So, follow the rules about how to avoid thunderstorms and what to do if you are caught in a thunderstorm anyway.
Ala-Kul Trek in winter (from October to May)
This is a very different story. Winter is very cold. Everything is covered in snow. And the snow is deep enough to cover all the trails. Temperatures can drop below -25, -30°C, especially at night. All the yurt camps are gone. Only one or two buildings in Altyn Arashan probably show some traces of life. In addition, there is a risk of severe snowstorms and avalanches.
There are almost no hikers on the Ala-Kul Trek this season. The only possible travelers on this route are some mountaineers with high winter experience, always as a group with a guide. A hike in such conditions is no longer a “normal hike” but more like a “polar expedition”.
So, this is the Ala-Kul trek. You can combine it with more treks in the area, or you can just focus on its classical route. No matter what option you choose, the moment you penetrate one of the valleys (Karakol or Arashan), you enter another world, and this world is fantastic!
Take a look at the videos from Ala-Kul (Alakol) Trek below:Â
Check some travel books about Kyrgyzstan:
 
 
 
 
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
