Let’s back to ancient times, about 1900 years ago. This is the time of the Book of Revelation- one of the most famous and mysterious books in human history. A part of its prophecy consists of seven messages to the Seven Churches of Asia. One of them is the church of Ephesus, in the ancient city with the same name, located in Western Turkey. So, let’s visit and explore this city and its secrets!
But before diving into the ruins of Ephesus and its history, let’s first take a look at a very special book- the Book of Revelation! Because Ephesus is not just one of the many other ancient cities, but there is something unique, and the answer is in this book.
Table of Contents
The Book of Revelation
The Book of Revelation is the last book of the Bible, known as “Apocalypse”. While the word “apocalypse” today is considered “the end of the world” (by horrible disasters), its original meaning is just “revelation”- a prophecy for the future. And yes, it speaks about the end of this world, but also about the beginning of a new, perfect world.

This book is structured as a complex prophecy in several parts, given to John the Apostle around 95 AD, while he was exiled to Patmos Island in Greece. This prophecy reveals secrets for the future (from John’s point of view)- from the 1st century AD to eternity. It starts with an introduction where Jesus Christ reveals to John. What follows next is the first main part of the Book of Revelation- the messages to the Seven Churches of Asia.
These churches were Christian fellowships established consequently in seven cities in the Roman province of Asia (not the whole continent of Asia!), in today’s Western Turkey. They were Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea.
And while the messages to them consist of certain instructions, promises from God, sin exposures, and encouragements, they are at the same time prophecies for Christianity in the following centuries, as a part of the whole Apocalypse.
This makes Ephesus- the city of the first one of the Seven Churches a special and unique place. So, let’s take a look at the message to the church of Ephesus!
The message to the Church of Ephesus
To the angel of the church in Ephesus write: These are the words of Him Who holds the seven stars in His right hand and walks among the seven golden lampstands. I know your deeds, your hard work, and your perseverance. I know that you cannot tolerate wicked people, that you have tested those who claim to be apostles but are not, and have found them false. You have persevered and have endured hardships for my name, and have not grown weary.
Yet I hold this against you: You have forsaken the love you had at first. Consider how far you have fallen! Repent and do the things you did at first. If you do not repent, I will come to you and remove your lampstand from its place.
But you have this in your favor: You hate the practices of the Nicolaitans, which I also hate.
Whoever has ears, let them hear what the Spirit says to the churches. To the one who is victorious, I will give the right to eat from the tree of life, which is in the paradise of God.
As you can see, this text raises a lot of questions: about the deeds of the Christians in Ephesus at first and 40 years later, about the Nicolaitans (who are they), and more. And of course, what does all of this mean? Let’s try to find answers, but to do it, let’s first start with another obvious question: Where is Ephesus?

Where is Ephesus
The ancient city of Ephesus is located south of İzmir, near the famous resort city of Kuşadası and the town of Selçuk. Here, the river Küçük Menderes flows into the Aegean Sea, passing through a small flat plain that once has been a sea bay, surrounded by hills and mountains. Today, this river reaches the sea at one of the longest sand beaches in Turkey- Pamucak Beach.
And here, at the edge of the plain, in a valley between two of the surrounding hills, at its southern side, you can find the ruins of the gorgeous ancient city of Ephesus. It is about 2 km long and 100-200 m narrow. The city has been abandoned centuries ago, and today the nearest human settlement is the town of Selçuk, about 3-4 km northeast of Ephesus. Modern Selçuk is not simply an unrelated town beside the ruins. It developed around Ayasuluk Hill, one of the historical settlement centers of Ephesus, and represents a later stage in the long and changing urban history of the area.
However, once Ephesus was a living city, one of the largest in the Roman Empire, thriving and full of life. And there was a Christian society living in this city that was chosen by God to be a part of the Apocalypse. Why and how? Let’s dive further into the past, to discover how the city of Ephesus was established and what is its history before the Book of Revelation.
The ancient history of Ephesus
To make it simpler, let’s generalize the ancient history of Ephesus.
Bronze Age (unknown times- until 13th century BC)
Human settlement in the wider Ephesus region dates back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence from Çukuriçi Höyük and Ayasuluk Hill reveals a long history of occupation before the appearance of the classical Greek and Roman city.
During the Late Bronze Age, western Anatolia was influenced by the kingdom of Arzawa. Its important center, Apasa, is often identified with the Ephesus area, although the precise archaeological and historical relationship remains under investigation.
The collapse of the Late Bronze Age political system around the end of the 13th and beginning of the 12th centuries BC brought major changes to western Anatolia. However, the available evidence does not allow every settlement change in the Ephesus region to be attributed to a single invasion or destruction event.
Dark Ages and Greek Migrations period (12th century BC to 650 BC)
According to ancient Greek tradition, Androklos, a prince associated with Athens, led Ionian settlers to the Ephesus region during the early Iron Age. He became the legendary founder of the Greek city, although the details of this account cannot be treated as a fully documented historical event.
The sanctuary of Artemis had a much longer history, with roots in earlier Anatolian religious traditions. Its monumental temple developed through several construction phases and eventually became one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The famous building should therefore not be attributed directly to Androklos.
Archaic Period (650 to 547 BC)
Ephesus was destroyed again by the Cimmerians in 650 BC, but later these were driven out and the city was restored. And for the next 90 years, the city was an independent state ruled first by tyrants, then by councils.
In 560 BC, Ephesus was conquered by the Lydian Kingdom, but the invaders didn’t destroy it. On contrary, the Lydian king Croesus respected the locals and even helped them rebuild the Temple of Artemis. However, only 13 years later, the city was conquered by the Persian Empire.
Classical Period (547 to 334 BC)
Following the Persian conquest of Lydia in the 6th century BC, Ephesus became part of the Achaemenid sphere of power. The Ionian Revolt began in 499 BC, but its suppression did not permanently end Persian control over the region.
During the 5th and 4th centuries BC, Ephesus was affected by the rivalry between Persia, Athens, Sparta, and other Greek powers. Its political status changed several times, while the city remained an important religious and commercial center on the Aegean coast.
In 356 BC, a lunatic called Herostratus burned and destroyed the Temple of Artemis. But it was used as a reason for the locals to rebuild a new one, larger than the previous.
Hellenistic Period (334 to 133 BC)
The army of Alexander conquered the area around Ephesus in 334 BC. After Alexander’s death, the Macedonian empire entered into the Wars of Diadochi era, when it gradually disintegrated into several smaller kingdoms. At first, Ephesus was under the rule of Lysimachus.
Around the beginning of the 3rd century BC, Lysimachus established a new fortified urban center at the location of the main archaeological site visible today. The relocation was connected with the political and military needs of the Hellenistic kingdom, as well as the changing geographical conditions around the Kaystros estuary. Over time, sedimentation and the gradual retreat of the coastline repeatedly affected the settlement pattern and harbors of Ephesus.
Then, the other Hellenistic kingdom- the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt conquered this area and ruled it from 263 to 197 BC. After that, the Seleucids regained it again, but for only 7 years.
Finally, in 190 BC, Ephesus became a part of the Kingdom of Pergamon, under the power of the Attalid Dynasty. This period lasted until 133 BC when the Attalids left their kingdom to the Romans

Early (Classical) Roman Period (133 BC – 314 AD)
From 133 to 27 BC, Ephesus was a part of the Roman Republic. However, this period wasn’t peaceful all the time. Between 88 and 86 BC, the city was involved in the war between Rome and the king of Pont Mithridates VI Eupator, and later- in the conflict between Mark Antony and Octavian Augustus.
And the real Golden Age of Ephesus began when Rome became an empire. The city was made the capital of Asia Province, many buildings were erected and Ephesus became “the second after Rome”. Most of the main sights that can be seen today- the Theater, the Celsus Library, the two Agoras, the Odeon, and the terraced houses, were built during that period.
Ephesus in the 1st century AD and the creation of its church
And one day, in this rich, prosperous, and famous city, a group of followers of Jesus Christ arrived from continental Greece. It was about 50 AD. They were led by Paul the Apostle.
At that time, a significant Jewish minority lived in Ephesus (as in many other cities in the region). The local Jews had their own synagogue. And when Paul and his people arrived in Ephesus, they stayed for a few days, and Paul visited the Jewish synagogue. He was welcomed, but he had to leave for Jerusalem.
About a year or two later, another follower of Jesus called Apollo arrived in Ephesus and shared the Gospel, then left for Corinth. Then, Paul arrived in Ephesus again and found twelve new believers who have become Christians, probably by the teaching of Apollo (Paul had to correct some details of Apollo’s teaching).
But this time, Paul remained in Ephesus for three years- from 52 to 54 AD. For three months he preached in the Jewish synagogue, then moved to the school of a local named Tyrannus. Paul’s work was successful, and thousands of locals believed in Jesus, not only from Ephesus but from the whole province of Asia. Thus, the Church of Ephesus was born.
At the end of Paul’s stay in Ephesus, unrest began concerning the business with the statues of Artemis. Because the new Christians abandoned the cult of Artemis, this business began declining, and some businessmen led by Demetrius raised a mutiny against Paul and the followers of Jesus. The main scene of the mutiny was in the Grand Theater (one of the main sights in Ephesus), but it was eased by the local Roman authorities.
The first Christians in Ephesus and their “first deeds”
After that, Paul left Ephesus. What remained after him was a dedicated congregation of Christians (they didn’t have church buildings but just met at their homes), well-organized with leaders, prophets, teachers, deacons, and other church positions (in fact, every one had his own position and role in the church).
When Paul passed for the third time by Ephesus (around 56 AD), he didn’t visit the city, but met with the local leaders in the nearby Miletus and encourage them by giving some important guidelines. Later (while he was in prison), Paul wrote a letter to the Christians in Ephesus which has become a part of the Bible- the Epistle of Ephesians. From this letter, we have information about their life and their first deeds.
This congregation was a mixture of Jews and Gentiles (Greeks and Romans) who became together as one. They were eager to work for the Kingdom of God, and they were strong and patient during difficult times.
The false apostles
From the Epistle of Ephesians, we see that Paul prayed and encourage them to grow in wisdom and knowledge. We don’t read about some serious persecutions against them (as in many of the other cities), but we read about people that called themselves “apostles” who came to visit them and tried to lead them. And the Christians in Ephesus, with their wisdom, successfully identified and denounced them.
The Nicolaitans
The Nicolaitans are mentioned in Revelation 2:6 and 2:15, but their precise identity, origins, and teachings remain uncertain.
Some early Christian writers associated the group with a person named Nicolas, while others described practices involving compromise with pagan religious life. However, these later accounts do not provide enough evidence to establish a reliable biography of its founder or a complete description of the group’s beliefs.
What Revelation states clearly is that the Ephesian community rejected the practices attributed to the Nicolaitans, and this is presented positively in the message. The controversy reflects the broader challenge faced by early Christians living within the religious and social environment of Roman Asia.

40 years later- the retreat from the “first love”
Meanwhile, many things changed in the Roman Empire. The Jews in Israel revolted against Rome but their revolt was suppressed and Jerusalem (with its Temple) was destroyed. The first more serious persecutions against the Christians began- with the emperor Nero, and then by emperor Domitian.
Although we don’t read about any severe persecutions against the Christians in Ephesus- at least not more severe than in some other cities in the Roman Empire, there were such, especially when Emperor Domitian raised himself as a “god” and built his own temple for emperor cult worship in the city.
As we know, John the Apostle worked in Ephesus, and the persecution due to the rejection of the Christians to worship the emperor probably was the reason why John was exiled to Patmos Island.
But we read that the activities of the followers of Jesus in this city were changed. Around 95 AD, a whole new generation grew in the Church of Ephesus, and Jesus says that they lost their first love. They were excellent, full of wisdom, with perfect organization, hardworking, and enduring all the persecutions and other challenges in the pagan world where they lived.
However, they turned all of this into a duty. They stopped doing it because they love Jesus, but just for their own self-bringing to the fore.
And Jesus told them that if they don’t repent from this, they would lose the light that has been given them in this dark world. They would lose their spirit power, wisdom, and influence. In other words, they would become useless and all their suffering would be in vain.
The Tree of Life
Ephesus was the city of Artemis- the center of the cult of Artemis in the ancient world. Remember, the Temple of Artemis was one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world! Artemis was the goddess of fertility.
If you look at her image, you can see a statue of a woman with many breasts giving fertility type of blessings to everybody. That was what brought thousands of pilgrims from all over the known world to the high-class city of Ephesus- not only the wealth of being one of the major trade ports but also to worship Artemis.
And it is considered that in front of the temple, there was a big tree that symbolized fertility- a tree planted in honor of Artemis. It was a very important symbol for the worshippers, but Christians would not participate in this worship.
That’s why Jesus tells them in the message that if they win all the challenges, they will enjoy a bigger and better Tree- the Tree of Life that gives more than Artemis and her tree. And the Tree of Life stays forever in the Paradise of God.
So, the message of Jesus to the church of Ephesus is also a prophecy for all other churches and Christians in the following centuries that would be in a similar situation like the Christians in Ephesus- as a part of the larger prophecy, named The Book of Revelation.

The later history of Ephesus
So, what happened after the time of John and the Revelation? What happened with the city and the church of Ephesus? Did they withstand? Did they repent and back to their first love?
This situation remained until 263 AD when the Goths invaded the area and destroyed the Temple of Artemis. After that, Ephesus gradually started declining.
Byzantine Age (313-1304 AD)
A major change occurred in AD 313, when Constantine and Licinius established a policy of religious toleration that greatly improved the legal position of Christians in the Roman Empire.
Christianity subsequently gained increasing imperial support, while Nicene Christianity became the officially endorsed form of imperial religion under Theodosius I in AD 380. These developments gradually transformed the position of the Christian institutions in Ephesus.
First, the empire was gradually divided into Western and Eastern, and this division was completed in 395. Concerning the church of Ephesus, it changed too- from a living congregation of believers, it gradually turned into a state religious institution.
During the 6th century, Emperor Justinian I commissioned the monumental Basilica of St. John on Ayasuluk Hill, strengthening the area’s importance as a Christian pilgrimage center.
At the same time, the geographical conditions of the ancient harbor continued to change. Sediments carried by the Kaystros River gradually filled parts of the former bay, and the coastline shifted westward. This was a long-term process that reduced the maritime importance of the classical city.
Political instability, warfare, and changes in regional trade also contributed to the transformation of Ephesus during the Byzantine period. Settlement increasingly shifted towards the fortified area of Ayasuluk Hill, where religious and defensive structures remained important.
By the medieval period, the ancient Roman city had lost much of its former urban role, while the settlement around Ayasuluk continued to develop. The history of Ephesus therefore represents a sequence of changing urban centers rather than the complete disappearance of one city followed by the foundation of an unrelated settlement.
Pre-Ottoman Period (1304-1390)
In the early 14th century, Ayasuluk came under the control of the Turkish Aydinid principality. The settlement remained an important regional center and developed new Islamic religious, commercial, and defensive buildings.
The transition from Byzantine to Turkish rule transformed the town’s political and religious character, but it should not be described simply as the total destruction of its population and the immediate disappearance of every Christian institution.
Ayasuluk later became part of the Ottoman state and eventually developed into modern Selçuk. Its historical landscape preserves traces of these successive periods.
Ottoman Period (1390-1923)
In this period, around the middle of the 15th century, Ephesus was completely abandoned. Only silent ruins remained, gradually covered by thorns and bush. As for Ayasulug- this village was turned into a Turkish Muslim town with mosques, Turkish baths, caravanserais, and a castle.
Modern period (1923 until today)
Ephesus remained in oblivion until recent times when it drew the attention of archaeologists and the Turkish government. Archaeological investigations of Ephesus began long before the development of modern mass tourism. Major excavations started in the 19th century, particularly through the work of British and Austrian researchers, and have continued through successive archaeological and conservation projects.
Today, Ephesus is one of Türkiye’s most important archaeological landscapes. Its Hellenistic and Roman monuments, early Christian sites, and later settlement areas around Selçuk together form a UNESCO World Heritage property, inscribed in 2015.
The church of Ephesus disappeared for many centuries, but there is some information that there are some Turkish Christians in Selçuk- probably they can revive it?

Our trip to Ephesus
So, all of this was the reason why we included Ephesus in our Western Turkey itinerary. We traveled by car on a route from Bulgaria, crossed into Asia at Çanakkale with the ancient Troy, and proceeded along the Aegean coast of the country. First, we visited Pergamum and Smyrna, and Ephesus was the third one from the Seven Churches of Asia on our route.
The tourist sites of Ephesus
The main tourist site itself includes the ancient city and several other smaller sites, thematically connected to the city- the Temple of Artemis, the Seven Sleepers, and the House of Virgin Mary. In addition, there are some points of interest in the town of Selçuk: the Archaeological Museum of Ephesus, the Basilica of St. John, Selçuk Castle, and some other minor places.
The ancient city of Ephesus
Due to its shape, the ancient city of Ephesus has two entrances. They are well-accessed by roads, and there are parking lots in front of them. So, you can enter from one of the entrances and exit from the other. Or, you can back to the entrance you entered.
The distance between the two entrances is about 2 km. And the whole route inside follows the main ancient street of Ephesus that is now extended to the entrances. If you enter from the lower entrance, you will pass by the Grand Ancient Theater, then by the Lower Agora in a square shape, designed mainly for trade and market activities, and then, through the gate of Augustus, you will reach the Library of Celsus- one of the most iconic landmarks of Ephesus.
From there, the ancient street turns left and gradually ascends by more points of interest- mainly ruins of temples for pagan gods and the Emperor cult. On your right side, you will see a covered area. This is the complex of the terraced houses. Nearby you will also see the Temple of Hadrian.
Finally, you will reach the Upper Agora, designed mostly for state business. On its left side is the Odeon- the cultural center of Ephesus- a small theater for theatrical plays. Here is the upper exit of the tourist site.
Entrance fees: According to the official Turkish Museums information, the standard Ephesus archaeological-site admission for an adult foreign visitor is €40. The Terrace Houses require a separate ticket, published at €15, unless they are included in an applicable combined ticket.
Opening hours: The archaeological site is normally open daily, but closing times differ according to the season and special visiting arrangements. The Ministry’s current information lists daytime access beginning at 08:00, while some periods also offer evening visits.
Parking and transfers: Parking charges and local transport prices around the two entrances can change. During our visit, we chose to walk from the upper entrance down through the ancient city and then return on foot to our car, which allowed us to explore the archaeological area at our own pace.
For the latest fees and hours, consult the official Ephesus archaeological-site page and the Turkish Museums visitor information.
Ongoing archaeological development: Ephesus is undergoing an extensive excavation and conservation program known as Eternal Ephesus: Heritage for the Future. The project includes restoration work along Stadium Street, the Great Theatre, and Harbor Street, together with improvements to the visitor routes.
In 2026, archaeologists and conservators were reconstructing damaged architectural elements, restoring columns, and preparing additional areas for public presentation. Some sections of the archaeological site may therefore look different from those shown in photographs taken during our earlier visit.
The project does not change the importance of the classical route through the city, but visitors should be prepared for occasional restricted areas or changes to the walking circuit while restoration continues.

Other points of interest nearby
Temple of Artemis
This place is located about 2 km northeast of the ancient city of Ephesus. There is the main road connecting Selçuk with Pamucak Beach, and the Temple of Artemis is on its north side. Today, there is only one pillar remaining from the temple, as well as some scattered ruins around it. Entrance fee: free.
House of Virgin Mary
It is an old building, located about 5 km south of the upper entrance of Ephesus. The building is discovered in the 19th century and is considered the place where Mary, the mother of Jesus spent the last years of her life. Whether it is true or not, remains unclear, and the building can be just an ancient church built by locals in this place. Nevertheless, it is accepted by the Catholic Church as the right place, and many pilgrims from all over the world come to visit it. Entrance fee: 120 TL
Seven Sleepers
This is a grotto, located east of Ephesus (the road connecting the upper and the lower entrances of Ephesus passes by this place). It is related to a Medieval legend about a group of Christians that hid here during the persecutions in 260 AD and slept for 300 years. Entrance: free.
The Archaeological Museum of Ephesus
The Ephesus Archaeological Museum is located in Selçuk and displays important archaeological discoveries from Ephesus and the surrounding region, including remarkable representations of Ephesian Artemis. The published admission fee for adult foreign visitors is €10, and opening hours vary seasonally.
Basilica of St. John
The Basilica of St. John was built in the 6th century AD during the reign of Emperor Justinian I, above an earlier Christian memorial site traditionally associated with John the Apostle. It stands on Ayasuluk Hill in modern Selçuk and is one of the most important monuments of the later Christian history of Ephesus.
The published foreign visitor admission is €6 for the St. John Monument archaeological area. Check the official information for St. John and Ayasuluk before visiting.
Selçuk Castle
Ayasuluk Castle occupies the summit of the hill above Selçuk, overlooking the surrounding plain and the former landscape of Ephesus. Its surviving fortifications and internal structures reflect several historical periods, particularly the Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman eras.
The castle forms part of the wider St. John Monument visitor area, but access to the upper fortress may follow more restricted hours than the basilica itself. Check the current arrangements before climbing to the top of the hill.

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How to reach Ephesus
The best way to reach Ephesus is by car. You would have the freedom to arrive there whenever you want. Ephesus is well-connected to the main roads along the Aegean coast of Turkey, as well as the big cities like İzmir, Istanbul, Turkey, and Antalya.
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When you approach Ephesus, you can choose which entrance you would like to enter, so you can park your car there and start exploring the ancient city. Also, by car, you can easily visit the other neighboring points of interest.
Other ways of transportation
If you don’t travel by car, you have other options to reach Ephesus:
- By air and rail: The nearest major airport is İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport. From the airport, you can take the İZBAN suburban railway south towards Tepeköy and transfer there to the connecting service for Selçuk.
Regional trains from İzmir towards Aydın and Denizli also stop in Selçuk, depending on the service. From Selçuk railway station, continue to the archaeological site by local minibus, taxi, or another suitable transfer.
Check the current connections and schedules through the official Selçuk rail access guide.
- There are also buses from İzmir (Central Bus Station) or from Kuşadası to Selçuk. Again, once you reach Selçuk, you can go to Ephesus as described above.
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Accommodation
There are no places to sleep in and around the ancient city of Ephesus. So, if you want to spend the night in the area, you have to look for a hotel, a guesthouse, or an Airbnb property in the nearby towns- Selçuk, Kuşadası, or some smaller villages and coastal resorts. And because this is a touristy area, you can find a lot of options.
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Selçuk and Kuşadası offer a wide range of accommodation, from simple guesthouses and small family-run hotels to larger resort properties. Selçuk is usually more convenient for visitors focused on the archaeological sites, while Kuşadası combines access to Ephesus with a seaside resort atmosphere.
Prices vary substantially depending on the season, accommodation type, location, and booking conditions. Budget travelers should compare hotels with private apartments and other short-term rentals rather than assuming that one category is always cheaper.
When choosing accommodation, check recent reviews, the full price including additional charges, and the practical distance from the places you intend to visit.
Check for accommodations around Ephesus on Airbnb!
Camping around Ephesus
Independent travelers with camping equipment have additional accommodation possibilities in the wider Ephesus region. However, wild camping should not be assumed to be permitted everywhere in Türkiye.
The archaeological landscape around Ephesus contains protected remains and areas where excavation or conservation may be underway. Camping within or near restricted archaeological zones should be avoided unless explicitly permitted.
Pamucak Beach, northwest of Selçuk, is a beautiful coastal area worth considering when exploring the region. However, check local camping regulations and any seasonal restrictions before planning an overnight stay directly on the beach. A designated campsite is the more predictable option.

Ephesus tour
The best way to visit Ephesus is to include it in a longer trip to all of the Seven Churches of Asia. Although it might be difficult to visit the churches following the order in the Book of Revelation, where Ephesus is the first one, you still can do it, just in a different order, especially if you come from Istanbul, İzmir, or Çanakkale.
But if your first stop is Kuşadası, the best you would do is to follow the right order, starting from Ephesus and ending with Laodicea. And of course, you can always combine this with a longer itinerary, including other destinations.
Finally, you can join a tour. Today, there are a lot of tours to the Seven Churches of Asia, including Ephesus. Although their tour guides would not certainly explain to you all of the details in the Book of Revelation, it is still useful and very convenient, and you can learn a lot of things.
Take a look at some tours to Ephesus:
We didn’t follow the right order in the Book of Revelation, because we came from Çanakkale. So, before Ephesus, we visited Pergamum and Smyrna, the third and second of the Seven Churches. And our next destination was the beautiful city of Bodrum. But we still included all of the Seven in our big Western Turkey journey, along with the best of the history and nature of this amazing region of the Earth.
Check some travel books about Ephesus:
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