Garganta de los Infiernos – Hiking the “Hell’s Throat” of Extremadura

Updated Nov 2025 — clarified route context & internal stage links

A quiet gorge in western Spain, where mountain water has polished stone for millennia — and a calm early milestone on a journey across Eurasia. It is an experience of the geography in its specific, local, and unique beauty. Despite its eerie name- Garganta de los Infiernos, which means Hell’s Throat, it is actually a paradise for hikers, travelers, or just people who are looking for relaxation in nature.

This guide is also a part of my long overland project Crossing Eurasia—a west-to-east route I’m traveling in segments. See the full plan here.

Part of the Long-Distance Routes project.
This guide is also a stage on the Crossing Eurasia overland route.
→ See the full continental hub
→ Start the route from Cabo da Roca

About Garganta de los Infiernos and Los Pilones

Not all dramatic landscapes shout. Some whisper — and if you listen long enough, they stay with you. Garganta de los Infiernos is one of those quieter places. But before immersing in the scenery of this point on the surface of the Earth, let’s get into geography.

Some geography

Let’s open the physical map of Spain or the whole Iberian Peninsula. You can see a mountain chain located in the middle of the peninsula, called Sistema Central (or Cordillera Central). The western part of this mountain chain is the most spectacular part of it, and it is called the Sierra de Gredos. Its highest peak is Pico Almanzor (2592 m). And if you want to explore the best of Sierra de Gredos, read our article about Laguna Grande hike, and go to explore this area. You won’t regret it!

But now, we will focus on the western part of the Sierra de Gredos. Although not as spectacular as Pico Almanzor and Laguna Grande, it still reveals a lot of sceneries and adventure opportunities.

The west of the Sierra de Gredos

When you look at the map, one of the first things you can notice is a long valley, dividing the mountain range into two subranges. The northwestern subrange is Sierra de Candelario, and the southeastern one is the western extension of Sierra de Gredos, called Sierra de Tormantos. This is the valley of the Jerte River- a spectacular corridor between these two subranges.

Garganta de los Infiernos valley

Now, let’s focus on a small sub-valley descending from the Sierra de Tormantos. This is the valley of the Garganta de los Infiernos River. The river starts from a small circus with marshes, at the foot of Mt Canchal de los Ballesteros (2342 m) as a stream called Garganta la Sierra. It flows from around 1950 m altitude and descends westward.

On its way, it gradually leaves the alpine zone of Sierra de Gredos and enters the forest zone of the mountain. Its valley gets narrower and steeper. At about 1075 m, it joins another mountain stream called Garganta de los Asperones. From this point, it enters the Garganta de los Infiernos National Reserve and gets the same name.

Los Pilones

The Garganta de los Infiernos River descends through a narrow gorge with tranquil scenery. But the most spectacular point is where the bottom of the gorge turns into a corridor of water, granite, and light. Here, the river does the sculpting: patient work, drop by drop, smoothing stone into bowls and channels, creating some of the most striking natural pools in Iberia — the famous Los Pilones. Here, the altitude is 680 m above sea level.

Los Pilones is a chain of several pools, connected by rapids on a smooth, rocky, bottle-and-bowls-shaped bottom. This is a surreal paradise scenery, in a lush subtropical deciduous forest, typical for this latitude, in the westernmost ends of Eurasia, at this altitude. And this is the main point of interest in the area around.

From here, the river proceeds further, and at 530 m it joins Jerte River which flows into the Tagus and the Atlantic Ocean.

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My journey to Garganta de los Infiernos and Los Pilones

It was a part of my long, segmented trip across Eurasia, the largest landmass on Earth. I started my trip from Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of the continent, crossed Portugal, and entered Spain, the Community of Extremadura. First, my route passed through four small cities with high historical and cultural value- Badajoz, Merida, Caceres, and Trujillo.

From there, I was looking for something that presents the nature of the Iberian Peninsula’s interior. I noticed the mountain chain of Sistema Central and Sierra de Gredos, so I decided to taste it. I defined my goal as a point on my route- Pico Almanzor and Laguna Grande, and the route to this point.

Then, I noticed that this route (coming from Monfrague National Park) goes by something interesting- not only typical for this geographical area, but also with a local natural formation. It was easily accessible, so I planned a few hours to visit and explore it. There was a relatively short hike with low difficulty- a perfect stop with high geographical value that could be added to my main route.

Here is what I saw and tried, and what more you could try.

Exploring Garganta de los Infiernos

The most basic way to explore Garganta de los Pilones is to do the hike to Los Pilones and back, called Sendero de los Pilones. This is the “core” of the area. This is what I did as a part of my longer route across the continent, and it is enough to get the necessary impression of the place. But if you have more time, there are a lot of opportunities beyond this hike.

Anyway, let’s start with Sendero de los Pilones.

Sendero de Los Pilones

The route is 2,60 km long, a linear (out and back) route- totally 5,20 km, and usually can be done within an hour and a half (but of course, better plan at least 2 hours, because when you see the beauty of Los Pilones, you would not want to go back immediately).

The starting point

The starting point of Sendero de Los Pilones is the central office of Garganta de los Infiernos, about a kilometer away from the main road between Plasencia and Avila, at the 37th kilometer from Plasencia.

The altitude of the starting point is 550 m above sea level. Besides the central office (called also the Interpretation Office of Garganta de los Infiernos), there are also two parking lots, a restaurant, a café, a campsite called Camping Valle del Jerte, as well as some additional facilities like a toilet, and more. Here you can see the information board and the beginning of the trail.

The trail

Sendero de los Infiernos is an easy trail. The most difficult (if it can be called “difficult” at all) is in the beginning- a narrow stony path ascends steeply for a few hundred meters through lush oak forest. Then, the ascent gradually finishes and the trail is almost flat, with only occasional short ascents and descents.

The path crosses a dirt road and proceeds further, high above the bottom of the valley. Here, the forest partially opens, and you can enjoy panoramic views of the high peaks of Sierra de Gredos. At some point, the trail joins another dirt road, and you proceed on it. This is the final section of the trail. Soon, you arrive at another trail that descends steeply to the river- the last 30-40 m. Here is the final point- Los Pilones.

Los Pilones

The trail reaches the river, and you can hear the increasingly furious noise of the water rapids. You suddenly see it- the unique rocky bottom and the ponds. A wooden bridge is established over the river, and the trail crosses it- you go to the other side.

If it is summer, the weather is hot. And the ponds are calling for immersion in the crystal clear, cool waters. But even in winter, when it is too cold for swimming, you can still enjoy the amazing scenery.

Here is the last point of this basic route, and after a short or long rest, you can go back to the beginning. But the trails don’t end here- you can see signs pointing to other spots, somewhere deeper in the mountain.

Other routes beyond Los Pilones

Most visitors stop at Los Pilones. But walkers with time can continue or take alternate routes. If you open the local tourist or topographic map, you can see a dense network of various paths or dirt roads in the area, merging or separating. Some leads to other roads, others lead to insignificant local spots, and some leads to nowhere.

However, there are also trails that not only lead to other amazing points, but also the trails themselves are spectacular.

Chorrero de la Virgen viewpoint

Before you proceed further, beyond Los Pilones, let’s make a short detour from the basic trail of Sendero de los Infierno. One of the most iconic spots in the Garganta de los Infiernos Natural Reserve is a spectacular waterfall called Chorrero de la Virgen (Waterfall of Virgin Mary). There is no established trail to the waterfall itself, but the best view of it, in all its beauty, is from afar.

For this purpose, you have to visit a viewpoint (mirador in Spanish) called Chorrero de la Virgen. A short, less than 200 m detour leads to it. And you can see the waterfall in all its beauty, before you head back to the main trail and proceed to Los Pilones.

Route of the Rebecos

This is a longer, 16 km loop trail. Its name means “the route of the wild mountain goats”. Sendero de los Infiernos is only a part of it, but if you have a whole day, you can proceed further from the wooden bridge at Los Pilones.

The route ascends against the current of the river, turns right against its tributary, and reaches a bridge called Puente Carrascal. From there, it crosses a small ridge and again reaches Garganta de los Infiernos at another bridge called Puente Nuevo or Puente de Carlos V. Then, it ascends to the summit north of the river and gradually descends to the Jerte Valley. Finally, a dirt road leads back to the starting point. Its highest altitude is 1030 m.

Carlos V route

Carlos V route has not only natural but also historical and cultural value. It marks the way Carlos V traveled in 1556 after his abdication, from the southern coast of the Bay of Biscay (the town of Lareda) to the Monastery San Jeronimo de Yuste, where he spent the last years of his life. He was on a long journey (more than 600 km), and the last 25 km of this route are located in the Sierra de Gredos. The monastery itself is located on the southwestern slopes of the mountain range.

Now, here we can focus on the last section of this route. Part of it is included in the Route of the Rebecos (the section between the Jerte Valley and Puente de Carlos V, or its version). Now, we focus on the other section of this route, leading from Puente de Carlos V in the opposite direction.

The distance from the Garganta de los Infiernos office to Puente de Carlos V (passing through Los Pilones) is about 5,3 km (about 2 hours). Here you join the official Carlos V route. It gradually ascends over the Gargante del Collado de los Yeguas (a tributary to Garganta de los Infiernos), and reaches Puerto de las Yeguas- 11,5 km to this point in total (more than 5 hours hike). From there, you descend to 600 m altitude- the village of Jarandilla de la Vera- that’s 21 km in total, about 8 and a half hours.

This route is epic and adventurous, proper for experienced hikers. But it is not a loop- when you reach Jarandilla de la Vera, you have to find another transport or proceed to the Monastery San Jeronimo de Yuste (or somewhere else) unless you want to back on the same route.

Reaching the alpine zone of Sierra de Gredos

This adventure normally requires at least two days of hiking. Your primary goal is the wild shelter called Refugio de la Angostura (1935 m altitude), at the source point of Garganta de los Infiernos (here called Garganta la Sierra).

After Los Pilones, the route partially follows Garganta de los Infiernos against its current but at a certain point, it leaves the bottom of the valley and ascends steeply to the summit north of the river, and most of the time follows this summit. Finally, it descends to the Angostura marsh- about 20,5 km in total (more than 8 hours hike). Here you can spend the night.

The next day, you have several options- all of them are proper only for experienced hikers:

• Ascend to the pass south of Mt Canchal de los Ballesteros, follow the summit westward to Puerto de las Yeguas, and back to the starting point, partially on Route Carlos V (but in the opposite direction). This is a long way- 23,5 km (about 13 hours hike).
• Follow the same route in the beginning, but at Portilla de Jaranda turn southward and descend steeply to the village of Guijo de Santa Barbara (11,5 km, about 6 hours hike).
• Reach the highest peak in this area- Mt Canchal de los Ballesteros and proceed northward, following the summit. Finally, you reach the road at Puerto de Tornavacas (12 km, about 6 hours hike).
• Again, reach Mt Canchal de los Ballesteros but proceed further to the northeast or east- for one, two, or three more days (or even more), to explore the best of Sierra de Gredos, including Pico Almanzor and Laguna Grande (more than 55 km).

Useful tips

So, how to fully organize your trip to Garganta de los Infiernos (the Hell’s Throat)? You know what it looks like, you only need some important elements of your trip like transportation and accommodation, as well as some additional tips.

Transportation

You have three options to reach Garganta de los Infiernos- by bus, by organized tour, or by your own transport (car, bicycle, etc.).

By bus

If you’re travelling from Madrid or Ávila, you can reach the Jerte Valley via bus or train to Plasencia, then transfer onward by regional bus into the valley — making the trailhead within reach even without a car.

Bus & Train Options from Madrid / Ávila to Jerte Valley

Note: For the most up-to-date times and fares, check the operator CEVESA, or the Plasencia bus station website.

There is no publicly published seasonal shuttle bus listed specifically for the trailhead of the Reserva Natural Garganta de los Infiernos. Visitors typically use the regular regional bus from Plasencia to the Jerte Valley (approx. €2-3) and then proceed by local village transfer, taxi, or on foot to the start point of the trail.

Bus from Jarandilla de la Vera

If you choose the hike on the Carlos V route to Jarandilla de la Vera, you have a “bus exit” from there:

From Jarandilla de la Vera, you can catch a regional bus to Plasencia in about one hour (fare approx. €4-6). This connection makes Jarandilla a practical departure point for hikers completing the Carlos V route and heading home or onward to larger transport hubs.

By an organized tour

For travelers who prefer not to deal with bus schedules or who want to explore several points in the Jerte Valley on the same day, organized tours are also available. Local agencies in Plasencia and Jerte offer guided day trips to the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve, often including transportation, hiking guidance, and short stops at scenic viewpoints or cherry farms (in season).

Tours can usually be arranged through the Plasencia Tourist Office or regional operators such as Cerezo en Flor Experience and Extremadura Adventure. Prices vary depending on group size and duration but typically range between €30 – €60 per person. Private transfers to and from Jarandilla de la Vera, Cabezuela del Valle, or Plasencia can also be booked through the same agencies, making it easy to return after completing the Carlos V trail.

By your own vehicle

This is the most convenient option, but only if you want to do an out and back or a loop hike. Your goal is Road N-110, connecting Plasencia with El Barco de Avila, following the Jerte and Aravalle valleys. You can easily find the starting point of the natural reserve on Google Maps.

Once you arrive there, you can park your car. There is a paid parking lot (€3 per hour), which is safer (however, if you want to leave your car for a longer time, the price is lower per hour). Or, you can park your car in the neighboring smaller free places, but they are not as safe as the official parking lot.

Accommodation

The area around Garganta de los Infiernos on the Jerte Valley is a touristy place with a lot of hotel, most of them made for “not-so-adventurous” tourists, relatively expensive. You can easily find them and check them one by one on Booking or Agoda. But let’s see the three closest to the starting point of them:

1. Hotel Los Arenales Valle del Jerte

Official website |
Booking.com

Located in the village of Jerte, just a few minutes from the Visitor Centre of the nature reserve,
this hotel offers easy access to the main trailhead. It features a restaurant, bar, and free parking.
Ideal for travelers looking for a comfortable stay with direct proximity to the Garganta de los Infiernos Reserve.

2. Complejo Rural Los Chozos Valle del Jerte

Official website |
Booking.com

This rural complex of stone cabins (“chozos”) is located right next to the entrance of the nature reserve,
surrounded by forest and mountain views. The accommodations blend rustic design with modern comfort,
providing a perfect base for hikers who want to stay immersed in the landscape.

3. Apartamentos Las Palomas

Official website |
Booking.com

A family-friendly apartment complex offering an outdoor pool, barbecue area, and garden spaces.
Located close to the Jerte River, it’s an excellent option for travelers planning a longer stay
or those seeking self-catering accommodation with easy access to the reserve’s hiking trails.

Camping

A cheaper and more exciting way to stay in Garganta de los Infiernos is to stay in the local campsite.

Camping Bungalows Valle del Jerte is located just outside the village of Jerte, within a few minutes’ drive from the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve. It offers both tent and camper pitches as well as wooden bungalows surrounded by cherry trees and mountain views.

Standard camping plots cost about €13–15 per night (low/high season), with €6–7 per adult, €5–6 per child, €5 for electricity, and €3 for pets. Fully equipped bungalows range from €65 to €110 per night, depending on size and season.

Facilities include a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, and free parking. It’s a convenient and nature-focused option for travelers planning early-morning hikes in the Jerte Valley or multi-day routes inside the reserve.
👉Official site

You can see another campsite at the starting point called Campamento Juvenil Emperador Carlos V. However, currently, it is established mostly for organized groups, not for independent travelers.

Staying in Jarandilla de la Vera

If you complete a Carlos V route to Jarandilla de la Vera, you most probably would need to spend one night in the village before proceeding further on the next day. Here is an option to stay: Hostal El Descanso del Emperador.

Hostal El Descanso del Emperador is a simple and affordable guesthouse located in the center of Jarandilla de la Vera — a convenient stop for hikers finishing the Carlos V route. Rooms are basic but clean, with Wi-Fi, heating, and private bathrooms. Prices start at around €35–40 per night, making it an ideal low-budget overnight stay before catching the bus or continuing your journey the next day.
👉 View on Booking.com

Mountain shelters

If you are more adventurous and want to spend a night in the mountains, there are three shelters (refugios) in the area:

Refugio del Escribano

Location: A wilderness hut in the Valle del Jerte, near the viewpoint of Chorrero de la Virgen above the reserve. Coordinates ~ 40.2006° N, –5.7631° W. Mapcarta+2Wikiloc | Rutas del Mundo+2
Conditions: Basic stone hut (“vivac”) with minimal shelter, not staffed, no services. atrochando.com+1
Advice: Bring your own gear, sleeping bag + mat. Pack food and water for an overnight or long stay. Use for a high-ridge stop or emergency.

Refugio Pescadores

Location: Near Cabezuela del Valle in the Valle del Jerte, along trails in the reserve. 
Conditions: A small stone refuge, likely unstaffed, accessible via hiking routes. 
Advice: Suitable for a rest stop or overnight in remote terrain. Bring + carry everything you need — food, water, warm clothes, headlamp.

Refugio de la Angostura

Location: High-mountain ridge of the Valle del Jerte / Sierra de Tormantos region. (General earlier information)
Conditions: High-altitude mountain refuge (“refugio libre”) — minimal accommodation, no full services.
Advice: Only for experienced hikers. Bring all equipment (tent or sleeping bag), water, meals; check the weather carefully; anticipate harsh conditions.

Food and water

If you go hiking for a longer time in the natural reserve or beyond it, prepare and bring your food. There are no restaurants or other places where you can buy something, once you start hiking and penetrate the mountain. The last places to eat are the nearby restaurants around the starting point of the hike.

There are no guaranteed drinking-water points along the main hiking routes inside the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve. The area includes rivers and streams (such as Río Jerte and the smaller gargantas), but their water is not safe to drink untreated, especially in summer when livestock and tourism increase upstream activity.

Hikers should therefore bring their own supply — ideally at least 1.5–2 litres per person for half-day routes, and more for full-day or multi-day hikes.

Mobile coverage

Mobile coverage in the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve is very limited once you leave the main road (N-110) and enter the hiking trails. Signal from major Spanish carriers (Movistar, Orange, Vodafone) is available around Jerte village and the Visitor Centre, but it drops sharply inside the gorges and upper valleys such as Los Pilones, Chorrero de la Virgen, and Angostura ridge.

For safety, hikers should not rely on a continuous mobile connection — download maps offline (e.g., AllTrails, Maps.me, or Wikiloc) and inform someone of your route before starting.

Seasons

Spring (March–May) brings the famous cherry blossom across the Jerte Valley — the most spectacular and popular time to visit. Trails are green, rivers run full, and temperatures are mild, though crowds peak in April.

Summer (June–August) offers clear skies and warm weather, ideal for swimming at Los Pilones’ natural pools, but midday heat can exceed 30 °C. Start hikes early and carry plenty of water.

Autumn (September–November) is quieter and colourful, with golden oak and chestnut forests and pleasant temperatures — a perfect time for photography and long hikes.

Winter (December–February) is calm and cold; higher trails may be muddy or even snowy, but lower routes remain open. Fewer visitors and dramatic scenery make it rewarding for experienced hikers prepared for variable weather.

❓ FAQ – Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve

Garganta de los Infiernos is more than just a hiking destination — it’s a living landscape shaped by water, stone, and centuries of quiet coexistence between people and nature. Whether you come for the spring blossoms, the summer pools of Los Pilones, or the solitude of winter trails, every season reveals a different side of the Jerte Valley. Take your time, tread lightly, and let the sound of rushing water guide you through one of Extremadura’s most unforgettable natural treasures.

Read more in our Iberian Peninsula travel guide.

Continue the journey

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Krasen and Ying Ying

Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.

So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.

And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.

Enjoy!