How to explore the Greater Ranges- a journey on the “Roof of the World”

How to explore the Greater Ranges- a journey on the "Roof of the World"
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Last updated: October 2026 — geographic terminology, mountain-range boundaries, peak elevations, access rules, border zones, climbing permits, and current travel realities across the Greater Ranges have been reviewed, while the original large-scale exploration concept is preserved.

Thе Greater Ranges area is the highest mountain land on the Earth, in the heart of the largest continent- Asia. Here you can find not only the highest peaks in the world, but also the largest lands with the highest average altitude. Together, these ranges and plateaus form an enormous highland system stretching for thousands of kilometers across the interior of Asia. The sources of some of the longest rivers on the Earth are located here. These lands present many geographical horizontal and vertical zones. They also present a rich variety of history and culture. Let’s dive into the geography of this gorgeous land. 

Dreaming the high mountain beauty

Since long time ago, I watched this amazing area on the map and had dreams to go there, to explore it and to enjoy its vastness and harsh beauty. Giant peaks, deep gorges, endless grasslands, with a feeling of remoteness and wild adventures- all of this became a strong temptation and longing for a journey to this land. It was a dream not just for a journey, but for exploring it in detail, and enjoying the unique experience of it. 

So, I watched the map of Asia, researched these mountainous part of the Earth and traveled in my imagination. I identified its division into mountain ranges and their boundaries, and planned our first trip there, until finally it became real and we ascent deep into this amazing highland world. It was in Eastern Tibet…But first, let’s see more about the Greater Ranges, where is it, how large is it, let’s see more details about it.

Himalaya and Everest, The Greater Ranges
Himalaya, Everest region

Basic facts about the Greater Ranges

Open the physical, or the satellite map of Asia. You will see a giant spot in the middle of the continent, in contrast of the surrounding lands. This spot is the highest land on our planet- a cluster of the highest mountains on the Earth, with its “king of the mountains”- the Himalayas. 

The term “Greater Ranges” comes mainly from the history of mountaineering rather than from a single formal system of physical geography. It was used by European climbers for the great high mountain ranges beyond the Alps, especially the Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, Pamir, Tien Shan, Kunlun, and neighboring ranges of High Asia. Later, some mountaineering usage expanded the term to other very high ranges around the world. In this article, I use “Greater Ranges” as a practical geographic concept for the connected high mountain and plateau systems of Inner and South-Central Asia, not as an officially bounded region.

In the broad sense used here, the system includes the Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, Pamir, Tien Shan, Kunlun, Trans-Himalaya, Hengduan ranges, and the Tibetan Plateau between and around them. The Tarim Basin and Taklamakan Desert are not part of the high ranges themselves, but they are geographically enclosed between the Tien Shan, Pamir-Kunlun systems, and other surrounding mountains, so they are essential for understanding the structure of High Asia.

Rivers of the Greater Ranges

The Greater Ranges are the source region for many of Asia’s great river systems. The Indus drains the western Himalaya and Karakoram before reaching the Arabian Sea. South of the Himalaya, the Ganges system gathers water from countless Himalayan tributaries, while north and east of the range the Yarlung Tsangpo cuts across southern Tibet before turning into the Brahmaputra. Farther east, the deep parallel valleys of the Salween, Mekong, and upper Yangtze dissect the Hengduan Mountains. To the north and west, the Amu Darya, Syr Darya, Chu, Yarkand, Karakash, and other rivers carry water from the Pamir, Tien Shan, Karakoram, and Kunlun toward the interior basins of Central Asia.

Civilizations of the Greater Ranges

The Greater Ranges cross an extraordinary mosaic of cultural worlds rather than one sequence of clean ethnic zones. Persian-speaking and other Iranian peoples dominate parts of the Hindu Kush and Pamir; Kyrgyz, Kazakh, Uyghur, Tajik, Wakhi and other Central Asian communities inhabit different valleys and plateaus farther north and west. The Himalaya includes Indo-Aryan, Tibetic, Sherpa, Bhutanese and many other mountain societies, while the Tibetan Plateau is dominated by Tibetan cultural regions such as U-Tsang, Kham and Amdo. Farther east, the Hengduan Mountains form one of Asia’s richest zones of ethnic and linguistic diversity.

Mt. Chola, Tibet, The Greater Ranges
Mt. Chola in Eastern Tibet

Borders of the Greater Ranges

Because the “Greater Ranges” are not a formally delimited physiographic unit, they do not have one universally accepted outer boundary. It is more useful to understand them through the terrain surrounding the highland core.

To the west, the great mountains gradually descend through Afghanistan and Pakistan toward the Iranian Plateau and the lowlands of South-Central Asia. To the north, the Pamir and Tien Shan fall toward the Central Asian basins, Dzungaria, and the deserts of Xinjiang. To the east, the Tibetan Plateau breaks apart through the Qilian, eastern Kunlun, and Hengduan systems toward the Sichuan Basin, Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, and the mountain corridors of mainland Southeast Asia. To the south, the Himalaya descend sharply toward the Indo-Gangetic and Brahmaputra lowlands, while farther southeast the highland structure continues through the hills of Northeast India, northern Myanmar, and Yunnan.

For route planning, these transition zones are more important than drawing one precise outer line on the map.

The Greater Ranges on the satellite map
The Greater Ranges on the satellite map

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Mountains and lands of the Greater Ranges

As you can see, the Greater Ranges are large, very large. They are a part of the Alpine-Himalayan  Orogeny Belt. If you wander what’s that, just look at the physical map of Europe and Asia. You will see the Belt, stretching from Western Europe to Eastern Asia. Its western end is dominated by the Alps, and its eastern end- the Greater Ranges, and they are connected by a long chain of other mountains in the middle- the Balkans, the mountains in the Minor Asia, and the mountains of Iran. Let this Belt be our “entrance” from west into the Greater Ranges. Its first high mountain range is Hindukush (Hindu Kush), but before we reach it, we have to pass a network of lower ranges, so, let’s start from them.

Baba Mountains (Koh-i-Baba) and their branches

If we approach the Greater Ranges from west, this mountain range is the first highland that we will see. It starts after we cross the border with Afghanistan with the lower mountains such as Band-e Torkestan, Siah Koh and Chatap Dalan, and gradually increases in altitude. Althouth these mountains are lower than the Himalayas, their peaks still reach serious heights, almost reaching 5000 m. The highest peak here is Foladi Peak (4951 m).

In Baba Mountains, Afghanistan
In Baba Mountains, Afghanistan

How to explore Baba Mountains

It is a highly off-the-beaten territory. These mountains are located entirely in Afghanistan, where route conditions remain highly conditional despite some reports of more organized travel in recent years. Before treating Afghanistan as an approach to the Greater Ranges, read my detailed guide to the Afghanistan overland route, which explains borders, permits, checkpoints, security risks, Wakhan, Pakistan crossings and route continuity.

Once you enter Afghanistan, you can rent a car from the bigger cities Kabul, Kandahar, Herat or Mazar-e-Sharif. It is better to rent a 4×4 vehicle, because many roads remain unpaved. Then you can penetrate deep into the Baba Mountains. The main road crossing the mountains is the central Afghan highway A77-AH77, which connects Herat with Kabul via Chaghcharan. Not far from it is Bamian, a city with ancient history, which can be your best starting point for trekking in Baba Mountains. 

The main summit of Baba Mountains reaches Shibar Pass, the beginning of Hindukush. But before that, there is another “foot” of the Greater Ranges- a chain of mountains coming from south- Spin Ghar (Safed Koh), Toba Kakar and several others, so let’s follow them too.

Spin Ghar and Sulaiman Mountains

This is another chain of mountains, another “foot” of the Greater Ranges. It is connected by watershed from the southern mountains in Iran, turns northward and connects with Baba Mountains in Afghanistan, then both mountain chains reach Hindukush. Sulaiman Mountains are in the south, reaching 3578 m at Zarghun Ghar, but the highest peak in the whole chain is in Spin Ghar in the north- Mt. Sikaram (4761 m).

Kabul River cuts the mountain chain on its way to Indus River. There is a famous mountain pass in this place- Khyber Pass, which is considered as “the beginning of the Himalaya”, although geographically the real Himalaya begins much easter, beyond the Indus River.

In Spin Ghar, Afghanistan
In Spin Ghar, Afghanistan

How to explore Spin Ghar and Sulaiman Mountains

This mountain chain is shared between Afghanistan and Pakistan, so the border between these two countries passes through the chain. This border and the area around it, however, is not a safe place. But not everywhere. There are still places in Pakistan, around Quetta and other cities that are relatively safe, and you can try to explore these wild and remote mountains, far from the tourist streams there.

So, these two main mountain chains meet together in Afghanistan, and a little further their common watershed reaches Shibar Pass, the gate of the Greater Ranges proper.

Hindukush

It is the extreme southwest part of the Greater Ranges. Its highest peak is Tirichmir (7709 m). Its summit goes northeast, reaching the Wakhan Corridor, where it connects with Pamir, Karakoram and Himalaya. It is share mainly between Afghanistan and Pakistan. 

The main watershed of Hindukush begins from Shibar Pass and proceeds northeastward to the place where the borders of Afghanistan, Pakistan, Tajikistan and China meet. It is divided into a chain of subranges, separated by a succession of mountain passes. Panj River divides Hindukush from Pamir in the north, and Kunar river divides its from Hindu Raj- a smaller range related with Karakoram. Finally, Hindukush merges with Karakoram (there is disagreement on which pass marks the exact border between these two ranges, but in general, Kilik Pass is the most accepted). 

Hindukush above the mist
Hindukush above the mist

How to explore Hindukush

Most of Hindukush is difficult to explore, because its main part is located in Afghanistan, which is still a dangerous and unstable country. However, its Pakistani part is safer. Its highest peak, Tirich Mir (about 7,708 m), lies in northern Pakistan, in the Chitral region, relatively close to the Afghan frontier. Chitral is therefore the normal access side for expeditions and trekking approaches. Its most popular part is Chitral, and it is the main starting point for exploring Tirichmir. Today it is one of the favorite place for adventurous explorers in Pakistan. 

The Wakhan Corridor remains one of the most remote and geographically isolated parts of Afghanistan. Its terrain, border status, local permissions, transport, checkpoints, security situation, and onward crossing possibilities must all be checked specifically before travel. It should be treated as an expedition-access problem rather than simply labeled “safe” or “unsafe” from an old political map.

Now, before we proceed eastward, let’s first head to the northwestern branch of the Greater Ranges, to the lands of Pamir and Tianshan.

Pamir

This mountain range lies north of Hindukush and between Amudarya and Syrdasya rivers. Its highest peak is Kongur Tag (7649 m). The range is shared between Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and China (Xinjiang). There are two fantastic highways in Pamir, providing breathtaking views and amazing mountain experience- Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, and Karakoram Highway in its Chinese section, in Xinjiang. 

The Pamir is commonly divided into western and eastern sectors, but its eastern boundary toward the Kongur and Kunlun systems is not defined identically in every geographic source. In Tajikistan, Ismoil Somoni Peak reaches 7,495 m, while farther east in Xinjiang, Kongur Tagh reaches about 7,649 m and is widely grouped with the eastern Pamir/Kongur system. For travelers, the exact classificatory line matters less than the fact that these massifs form one continuous high-mountain transition between the Pamir, Kunlun, and Karakoram worlds.

Pamir, Mt. Muztagh Ata
Pamir, Mt. Muztagh Ata

How to explore Pamir

Exploring Pamir is easier than Hindukush, but it still depends which part of Pamir you want to visit. The western part is shared by Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Once you arrive in one of these countries, you are free to go wherever you want, with some exceptions near the borders (as in many other countries, there are restrictions in the border areas, and a permit is usually required to go there). You can rent a car, travel by bike, motorbike, by organized transport (with local drivers), or just by hitchhiking. The most popular route in Pamir is the Pamir Highway, but there are other off-the-beaten routes around it.

The Chinese Pamir remains a border-sensitive region, especially around Tashkurgan and the Karakoram Highway. However, the old rule described in this article — that foreigners could only visit through an organized tour from Kashgar — is no longer universally accurate. Since April 2026, foreign nationals can apply in person for the required Electronic Border Administration Area Permit at authorized offices. Specific valleys, climbing areas, and border sectors can still have additional restrictions, so each route must be checked separately rather than treating the whole Chinese Pamir as one closed zone.

Now, let’s proceed further in northeast direction, following the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. The Greater Ranges proceed into Tianshan, looking like a “flag” of this mountain lands on the map. There is a smaller range, located between Pamir and Tianshan, called Alay Range, considered by some as a part of Pamir, by others as a part of Tianshan, or just as a separate range. And the mountains of Tianshan lie north of it.

Tianshan

Tianshan is the northernmost “Greater Range”. It is long in shape, with many branches. Its highest peak is Jengish Chokusu (7439 m). This broad mountain land is shared mainly between Kyrgyzstan and China (Xinjiang), and is present in small parts of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Although it looks like a long mountain summit, it consists of several main subranges, merging or dividing from each other. In one of them you can see one of the most beautiful snowy peaks on the Earth- Khan Tengri (6995 m, or 7010 m with its icy cap).

Tianshan is the farthest mountain range from any ocean. It is located exactly in the middle of Asia. So, it is remote, and at the same time, considered as one of the most beautiful mountain land on the Earth. Many people fall in love with the Alps or the Rocky Mountains, but they can’t imagine how beautiful is Tianshan, with its grasslands, gorgeous forests, deep valleys and snowy peaks. When add to this beauty the pastoral and nomadic traditions of Kyrgyz, Kazakh, and other Central Asian communities, when you see their gers (yurts) and their flocks of horses, the whole image is like a fantastic fairy tale. 

Alpine valley with coniferous forests, Tianshan
Alpine valley with coniferous forests, Tianshan

How to explore Tianshan

Tianshan is an easy to reach place, but again it depends in which country you go. Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan parts of the range are free to access, again with exception of their border areas. You can travel to various starting points by marshrutka or rental car, then you can freely enjoy the mountain wherever you want. The most popular part of Tianshan is Terskey Alatau subrange near Karakol, with its fantastic Djety Oguz and Arashan valleys.

On the Chinese side, access depends strongly on the exact location. Large parts of the Xinjiang Tien Shan are ordinary travel areas, while some border-management zones, protected areas, military-sensitive sectors, and specific valleys require additional permission or can be temporarily restricted. Accommodation rules for foreign guests have also changed substantially since our early journeys, so old blanket statements about entire prefectures should no longer be used. Check the exact route rather than assuming that the whole Chinese Tien Shan follows one access regime.

The last subrange of Tianshan almost touches Mongolia, and beyond it, the mountain disappear in the vast Mongolian grasslands and deserts. This is the northern end of the Greater Ranges, so let’s back to the south. There is Tarim.

Tarim

You see the large eye-shaped spot on the map, separating Tianshan from the rest of the Greater Ranges? This is Tarim, a depression with average altitude between 900 and 1200 m only, and its larger part is the Taklamakan Desert- one of the deadliest deserts on the Earth. So, it is low, it is not a “Greater Range”, but its interior is not less difficult to reach than the harshest high mountains on our planet. Only the oasis ring of roads and the cities around the desert like Kashgar, Aksu, Korla and Khotan are hospitable, beautiful and full of unique local culture and history. 

So, let’s “cross” Tarim, and back to the real Greater Ranges, to the place where the main summit divides into north and east at the end of Hindukush. The next range in front of us is Karakoram, the second highest mountain range on the Earth.

Karakoram and Hindu Raj

This is a fantastic, giant and wild “supermountain”. Four of the fourteen 8000ers are located here, including its highest peak, the famous K2 (8611 m), called also Chogori, the second highest peak on the Earth. The Karakoram contains one of the greatest concentrations of glacier ice outside the polar regions, and one of the most difficult naturally area to cross. The Karakoram extends across Pakistan, India-administered Ladakh, and China, with its western end approaching the complex junction of the Hindu Kush and Pamir near the Wakhan region.

Its “little brother”, called Hindu Raj is a Karakoram’s extention between Indus and Kunar rivers, reaching the lowlands at the Indus Valley. Its highest peak is Koyo Zom (6872 m). Maybe because it doesn’t reach 7000 m, and is “in the shadow” of Karakoram, it is not such popular.

There are many well-known places in the Karakoram Range that travelers who like high mountains have probably heard- K2, Gasherbrum, Baltoro Glacier, Rakaposhi, Khunjerab Pass, as well as the valleys of Hunza and Gilgit- the most visited areas of the range, starting points for exploring its interior- all located on or along the famous Karakoram Highway.

Karakoram, the most glaciated non-polar area
Karakoram, the most glaciated non-polar area

How to explore Karakoram and Hindu Raj

Once you enter Pakistan, it is easy to explore Karakoram and Hindu Raj. You just have to travel on the Karakoram Highway, on Hunza and Gilgit valleys to reach the main towns and villages in the area. From the main valleys, many trekking routes lead deeper into the Karakoram and Hindu Raj, but access depends on the exact valley, protected-area regime, border proximity, security rules, and whether a trekking or climbing permit is required. But continuing farther from Pakistan toward India is a different route problem: the Pakistan–India overland border can break the connection between the Karakoram / Indus side of the Greater Ranges and the wider Himalayan route.

Access becomes more regulated in border sectors and around major expedition objectives. The Khunjerab crossing between Pakistan and China operates under international-border procedures and seasonal conditions, while side valleys and climbing zones may require separate permissions. K2 and Baltoro approaches from Pakistan are organized expedition/trekking routes with protected-area and permit requirements; the Chinese side is much more restricted and should be researched separately before planning.

Now, let’s cross the Indus River. Beyond it, we enter the “king of the whole mountains”- the majestic Himalaya.

Himalaya

The Himalaya is the most famous mountain range of all, with the highest peak on Earth, Mount Everest, officially measured at 8,848.86 m. It is a long range, stretching from Indus to Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) rivers, for about 2500 km, marking the boundary between the tropical lowlands of India and the harsh mountain world of Tibet. The Himalayas are shared between China (Tibet), Nepal, India with Sikkim, and Bhutan. It is one of the best places on the Earth that you can see the various geographical zones in altitude- from tropical jungles to polar type of glaciers. 

From west, the Himalaya begins with a gorgeous 8000-er- Nanga Parbat, rising high above the Indus River gorge, and ends with Namcha Barwa- another giant, rising spectacularly over the valley of Yarlung Tsangpo. And in the middle, there is a long chain of giants like Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Makalu, Lhotze, Kangchenjunga, the beautiful Ama Dablam, Machapuchare and many others, beside the highest and most famous peak in the world- Mount Everest.

Himalaya, Mount Everest
Himalaya, Mount Everest

How to explore Himalaya

Himalaya is too famous, too popular. So, its no wonder that tourism in this mountain is much more developed, more than any other “Greater Range”. And of course, the most popular place is Sagarmatha National Park in Nepal, where crowds of tourists join the Everest Base Camp trek every year. There are many other treks, going to every 8000-er’s foot, base camp, or just circulating around it, or just going to many other spectacular places in the mountain.

However, there are still some places that are more complicated. The border with China passes on the whole Himalaya range, which means that there is a border area. And again, on the Chinese side it is more difficult. There is the Tibetan Autonomous Region, and foreigners can’t travel freely there, but only by organized tour. Bhutan has also changed its tourism system. Foreign visitors can now apply for their visa independently rather than being forced into the old fixed-package model. However, trekking is still regulated: trekking services must be arranged through a licensed tour operator, and a licensed trekking guide is required for trekking tours. Bhutan also charges a Sustainable Development Fee, currently USD 100 per adult per night. Bhutan official visa information.

Yarlung Tsangpo River flows north of the Himalaya, forming its northern boundary. Let’s go beyond it- into a deeply off the beaten area, remote, harsh and desolate. This is Trans-Himalaya.

Trans-Himalaya

Trans-Himalaya is a less prominent mountain range, located in the southern part of the Great Tibetan Plateau. Its highest peak is Nyenchen Tanghla (7162 m), and it is located entirely in China, mainly in the Tibetan Autonomous Region, and a small part of Qinghai. 

In general, Trans-Himalaya consist of two main subranges- Gangdise in the west, and Nyenchen Tanghla in the east. The capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Region Lhasa is located in a valley close to one of Nyenchen Tanghla branches. And in the west you can visit one of the most famous peaks in the Greater Ranges- Mt. Kailash (Kangrinboqe), considered as the “holiest peak” in the Tibetan Buddhism. The rest of the mountain range consist of bare polar tundra type of landscapes, scattered snowy peaks and a lot of plains and lakes. One of the most popular lakes is Nam Tso in Nyenchen Tanghla subrange. 

A lake and snowy peaks in Trans-Himalaya
A lake and snowy peaks in Trans-Himalaya

How to explore Trans-Himalaya

It is difficult. Since Trans-Himalaya is located mainly within the Tibetan Autonomous Region, where the foreign travelers are required to join an organized tour (although not necessary a group tour). You can’t go freely there. And except for Mt. Kailash and Nam Tso area, everything else is off the beaten, without any tourist acticity, so reaching these off the beaten places would be quite expensive. 

But that’s not the most difficult place in the Greater Ranges to reach. Let’s go further north, deep into the Great Tibetan Plateau. 

Chang Tang

If you think that Mount Everest is the most difficult place to reach in the Greater Ranges, look farther north into Chang Tang. This vast interior plateau contains enormous tracts above 4,500 m, with many basins and plains approaching or exceeding 5,000 m. Settlements are sparse, distances are immense, and large areas consist of cold grassland, steppe, salt lakes, and near-uninhabited wilderness. It is one of the largest continuously remote high-altitude landscapes on Earth.

Endless plains covered with scattered tundra or almost bare, endorheic lakes, lonely snowy peaks and deep blue sky, with no people- this is Chang Tang. You can see it in the map- the Great Tibetan Plateau is like a large eye-like shape, in sharp contrast with the surrounding lowlands, and Chang Tang is the main part of this shape. It is located mainly within the northern part of the Tibetan Autonomous Region, and small parts of Qinghai and Xinjiang.

Desolate emptiness in Chang Tang
Desolate emptiness in Chang Tang

How to explore Chang Tang

Extremely difficult. You see the photo above? This is a vast area on average 4900 m altitude. There is a story about a man who crossed Chang Tang for 77 days, and it is an adventure like a crossing of Antarctica. Forget about tourism there. Besides, a large part of Chang Tang is turned into a national reserve due to the rich wildlife thriving there, so it is a heavily restricted area. 

Access to remote Chang Tang cannot be reduced simply to paying for permits. Parts of the region fall within major nature reserves, wildlife-protection zones, border-management areas, and sections where ordinary tourism is not authorized at all. A feasible route depends on the exact location, current local approval, protected-area rules, transport, and the ability to organize a legally recognized expedition.

Kunlunshan

Finally, we cross the vast Great Tibetan Plateau to its northern boundary. There is a long  mountain range, like an antipode of the Himalaya, but on the opposite side of the plateau. This is Kunlunshan- one of the longest mountain ranges in Asia. Its highest peak is Liushi Shan (7167 m). From the west, it begins southeast of Eastern Pamir, and northeast of Karakoram, then proceeds further eastward on the border between Xinjiang and the Tibetan Autonomous Region, then proceeds into Qinghai Province. 

Kunlunshan is again vast, desolate and harsh. Only its easternmost branches like Bayan Har and Amnye Machen gradually enter in a little more civilized Tibetan area. In fact, it marks the northern edge of Chang Tang, and the same wilderness is present there, with rich wildlife, and almost no population. 

Amnye Machin, Kunlunshan, The Greater Ranges
Mt. Amnye Machin, the easternmost branch of Kunlunshan

How to explore Kunlunshan

The Kunlun is extremely difficult to generalize because it stretches across several administrative and protected-area systems. Some major transport corridors are open, while remote border sectors, nature reserves, military-sensitive areas, and off-road routes can be tightly controlled or inaccessible. For foreign travelers, the exact valley or road must be checked individually rather than assuming that the whole Kunlun is either open or closed.

But an easier way is to travel on the road connecting Xining and Yushu. The main Xining–Yushu corridor lies in Qinghai rather than the Tibet Autonomous Region and can generally be traveled by foreigners without the TAR travel permit. However, remote side routes can still enter protected, border-managed, or otherwise restricted zones, so the absence of a TAR permit requirement does not mean that every surrounding valley is unrestricted. Just need to arrange your private transport, and you can taste the wilderness of Kunlunshan in Bayan Har and Amnye Machen branches. 

Altyn Tagh and Qilian Mountains

The western half of Kunlunshan marks the northern boundary between the Great Tibetan Plateau and the Tarim Basin. But from the middle of the range, Kunlunshan proceeds inside the plateau. Instead, another mountain range proceeds northeastward as the northern edge of Tibet and all the Greater Ranges. It is Altyn Tagh, and its neighbour Qilian Mountains. The highest peak there is Sulamutag (6245 m), and the highest peak of Qilian is Kangzegyai (5808 m). 

These two ranges, along with Kunlunshan create a lower depressions in the middle. The largest lake in China- Qinghai Lake is located in the easternmost of these depressions. Another amazing lake there is Chaka Salt Lake- one of the most saline bodies of water on the Earth. Both these two ranges are shared mainly between Qinghai and Gansu provinces, as well as a bit of Xinjiang. 

Grasslands on Qilian Mountains
Grasslands on Qilian Mountains

How to explore Altyn Tagh and Qilian Mountains

Access across the Altyn Tagh-Qilian region varies by exact location. Major towns and transport corridors should not be treated as automatically closed to foreigners simply because older travel reports described restrictions there. At the same time, remote desert, military-sensitive, border-management, and protected areas can still have special controls. Check the exact route and destination rather than using old prefecture-wide rules.

The most touristy place in the area is Qinghai Lake, and Qilian Mountains begin north of it, Due to its proximity to the lake, Qilian is easily to reach and explore. You can see the beauty of this mountain if you travel by train from Xinjiang to Xining, if the train passes on the railroad through the mountain. 

Hengduan Mountains

Finally, we reach the easternmost part of the Greater Ranges- Hengduan. Actually, this is not a single range, but a series of ranges which are not directly connected by summits, but are separated by deep valleys. They form a series of mostly north-south ranges separated by some of Asia’s deepest river valleys, including the upper Salween (Nu), Mekong (Lancang), Yangtze (Jinsha), Yalong, and Dadu systems.

The Hengduan Mountains are not one simple ridge but a broad system of parallel and branching ranges marking the southeastern fragmentation of the Tibetan Plateau. Their exact western and southern limits vary between geographic classifications. Major components include ranges associated with Meili Xueshan, the Shaluli system, the Daxue Mountains with Minya Konka (Gongga Shan, 7,556 m), and the Qionglai Mountains farther east. Southward, the highland structure grades into the mountain systems of Yunnan, northern Myanmar, and mainland Southeast Asia rather than ending at one clean line.

Mt. Genyen, in Shaluli range, Hengduan
Mt. Genyen, in Shaluli range, Hengduan

How to explore Hengduan Mountains

Most of Hengduan Mountains are located in Sichuan and Yunnan provinces of China. They are opened for foreigners, with exception of the border areas with Myanmar. The western Hengduan ranges extend into the Tibet Autonomous Region, where foreign travel is governed by the TAR permit and organized-tour system, with additional local restrictions possible. Chamdo has historically been especially difficult for foreign travelers to access, but its status should be checked as a specific current route issue rather than described permanently as the single completely forbidden prefecture.

In Myanmar and the extensions in Laos and even Vietnam, the mountains are also open in some areas, but relatively difficult to access because they are often situated in borderlands, conflict-affected regions or places far from reliable roads. This is especially important near the India–Myanmar overland route, where the map suggests a natural passage from South Asia to Southeast Asia, but the real route is broken by border restrictions, Myanmar’s internal conflict and difficult onward transit. But in China, in Sichuan and Yunnan, there are a lot of touristy places like Lijiang, Shangri La, Yading, Litang, Kangding, Jiuzhaigou or Siguniang. So, it is quite easy to go there and freely explore the beautiful Eastern Tibet.

More travel tips

As you can see, there is a lot to explore in this part of the Earth. Some places are easy to visit, even touristy, while other places are restricted, very difficult to access, or 100% forbidden for foreign visitors. 

Many major peaks in the Greater Ranges are regulated mountaineering objectives. Depending on the country and mountain, an expedition may require a climbing permit, protected-area fee, licensed agency, liaison arrangements, environmental deposit, guide or rescue provisions. Permit cost is not determined by altitude alone, although some countries — including Nepal — use altitude and season in their fee structure. Since September 2025, for example, Nepal’s spring Everest royalty for a foreign climber is USD 15,000 before the many additional expedition costs are added. Nepal Department of Tourism — current mountaineering fees.

However, you can get a great experience by just joining a trekking to the base camps of the high peaks, circling around them or just passing nearby. Or, you can hire a van or a car, and travel on the roads in Kyrgyzstan, Xinjiang or Eastern Tibet. There are many other options too- hiking, biking, or just aiming at certain spot somewhere and relaxing there. 

The challenge

Some remote peaks are harder to approach administratively than famous 8,000ers. A mountain deep inside Chang Tang, for example, may combine TAR travel rules, nature-reserve restrictions, local administrative approval, and mountaineering regulations. In such places the main question is not simply how much the permits cost, but whether the exact route and objective can legally be approved at all. This is why remote expedition planning must begin with access research before climbing logistics.

I wish the Greater Ranges were like thousands of years ago- a free and wild land, where the only restrictions come from the nature. On the other side, these restrictions probably really protect this land of mountains. So, the Roof ot the World will always remain a dream for every explorer and traveler- one of the most beautiful parts of the Earth.

Get more inspiration from the video below!

Take a look at some books about the highest mountains on the Earth:

 

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How to explore the Greater Ranges- a journey on the "Roof of the World". Read about the highest mountain on the Earth, and travel tips how to explore them How to explore the Greater Ranges- a journey on the "Roof of the World". Read about the highest mountain on the Earth, and travel tips how to explore them How to explore the Greater Ranges- a journey on the "Roof of the World". Read about the highest mountain on the Earth, and travel tips how to explore them

Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually. So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration. And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality. Enjoy!

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