When you travel to West Sumatra and arrive at Minangkabau Airport in Padang, one of the first things you notice is the spectacular roof of the airport building. It looks like buffalo horns- not single, but double, even triple horns on both sides. And when you roam around Padang or other cities and towns in the province, you can see a lot of this style, everywhere. Why do they look like this? The Minangkabau houses are the pride of the local people. Let’s go on to explore this culture and its roots!
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Minangkabau people
The Minangkabau is one of the largest ethnic groups in Indonesia and the whole of Southeast Asia. They have developed a distinctive culture in the western part of Sumatra Island. But to understand them better, let’s dive into the history.
Some history
The origin of the Minangkabau people is unclear. In their “Tambo” literature is written that they are descendants of Alexander the Great (Iskandar Zulkarnain), but of course, it is highly uncertain- their language and their East Asian features are very different from the Hellenistic image of Alexander.
The Minangkabau people belong to the wider Malay cultural and linguistic world of western Indonesia and the Malay Peninsula. Their culture developed over centuries in the highlands of the Barisan Mountains, particularly around Mount Marapi. Early local beliefs were gradually influenced by Hindu-Buddhist traditions and the wider political and trading networks of Sumatra. Over time, the region developed its own political institutions, customary laws, and distinctive cultural identity, later incorporating Islam into Minangkabau society.
Consequently, around the 7th century, these kingdoms were “engulfed” by larger kingdoms and empires like Srivijaya, and more. Then, something happened in the 13th century that changed their history and had a significant influence on their culture. Until that time they even hadn’t called themselves “Minangkabau” but “Minang Tamwan”.
The legend about the buffalo
In 1275, King Kertanegara of the Singhasari Kingdom in Java launched a military expedition known as Pamalayu, directed towards the Malayu Kingdom in Sumatra. This expedition is a historical event, but its relationship to the famous Minangkabau buffalo legend is uncertain. The traditional story has been associated with conflicts involving outside rulers, although different versions connect it with different periods and kingdoms.
However, according to a legend, a local leader proposed a deal with the Singhasari prince who led the expedition. To avoid bloodshed, they agreed to arrange a water buffalo battle from both sides and let the buffaloes fight instead of the people.
So, the Singhasaris chose a big, strong, and aggressive buffalo. But the local people chose a baby buffalo with sharpened horns. The baby buffalo approached the big one who didn’t see a threat and didn’t pay attention to it. Then, suddenly, the baby thrust its head under the big buffalo’s belly and its sharp horns punctured and killed it. Thus, the battle was over, and the Singhasari prince confessed his defeat.
According to this tradition, the buffalo and its horns became important symbols of the Minangkabau people. The name Minangkabau is popularly explained as a combination of words meaning “victorious buffalo”, although its exact historical etymology remains debated. The characteristic upward-curving roofs of traditional Minangkabau houses are commonly interpreted as resembling buffalo horns, reinforcing the connection between their architecture and cultural identity.
About a century later, they built a strong kingdom called Pagaruyung. This kingdom remained until the 19th century, gradually embracing the Islamic religion. But although the new religion introduced new traditions and new architectural styles, especially in the mosques, the buffalo-style of the traditional Minangkabau houses remained until today.
Some geography
You can see Minangkabau houses in most of the province of West Sumatra, where the Minangkabau people live. Most of them can be found in Padang and the area around Bukittinggi. And there are almost none of them on the Mentawai Islands.
Today, many of them are used for governmental buildings, banks, and other institutions. And some smaller Minangkabau houses are private homes, usually, the richer ones. Finally, some of them are turned into splendid museums like the Adityawarman Museum in Padang, the History Museum in Bukittinggi, and the most beautiful one- Pagaruyung Palace in Batusangkar.
Architectural style of the Minangkabau houses
There is a specific vernacular architectural style that is traditional for the Austronesian peoples. Its buildings are called Rumah Adat. Most of the Austronesians have their own type of Rumah Adat, and the Minangkabau houses are one of them, called Rumah Gadang.
The role of Rumah Gadang in Minangkabau society
A traditional Rumah Gadang is much more than a house with an unusual roof. It is closely connected with the matrilineal kinship system of the Minangkabau people, in which family descent and certain inherited properties are traced through the female line. Traditionally, a Rumah Gadang belongs to an extended family or clan and provides a shared home for women and their families, while male relatives also play important roles in customary leadership and family affairs.
This social function is reflected in the organisation of the building, its communal spaces, and its importance during family ceremonies. Today, some Rumah Gadang remain family residences, while others have been preserved as cultural monuments, museums, guesthouses, or public buildings. For a well-preserved example of the relationship between traditional architecture and community life, see the Traditional Settlement at Nagari Sijunjung, included on Indonesia’s UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List.
There are two main sub-styles of Rumah Gadang- Koto Piliang and Bodi Caniago.
- Koto Piliang houses: they are aristocratic, with raised floors at their two ends called “anjuang”.
- Bodi Caniago houses: they are more “democratic”, with flat floors, without “anjuang”.
In both styles, we can see single, double, triple, and even quadruple-horned roofs. In addition, there is usually an entrance façade in the middle of the house’s length, again with a horned roof. The horns are called “gonjong”. Traditional Rumah Gadang roofs were commonly covered with ijuk, the dark, fibrous material obtained from the sugar palm (Arenga pinnata). Many surviving and modernised houses now use corrugated metal sheets or other more durable roofing materials, although traditional palm-fibre roofs can still be seen on some carefully maintained historic buildings.
These two sub-styles are applied to several types of Minangkabau houses and buildings. As mentioned above, the traditional ones are residential houses, aristocratic buildings, and rice barns (rankiang). But today, the horned-roof style is also applied to many modern buildings in West Sumatra- banks, government institutional buildings, and even some mosques (like the Grand Mosque of Sumatra in Padang), as well as some modern residential buildings.
Where to see the best Minangkabau houses
We should start from the core of the Minangkabau land- the area around Mt Marapi. Here used to be the center of Pagaruyung Kingdom.
Batusangkar
Batusangkar is a small town, located southeast of Mt Marapi. It is famous for the most beautiful Minangkabau house (Rumah Gadang)- this is Istano Basa Pagaruyung- Pagaruyung Palace, the restored palace of the Pagaruyung kings. Today, it is turned into a museum, one of the most popular tourist attractions in West Sumatra.
The main building of Pagaruyung Palace was built in Koto Piliang style, with a quadruple roof and ornamented walls. It has three floors. Besides it, there is a large rice barn (rankiang), and two smaller houses behind the main palace.
There is another, smaller palace called Istano Silinduang Bulan, located on the same road as the Pagaruyung Palace. Again, it is in Koto Piliang style, with two rankiang on both sides. The palace has undergone several restorations and remains an important example of Minangkabau royal architecture. It is much less visited than Istano Basa Pagaruyung, and visitors should confirm locally whether the interior is accessible.
You can see many other smaller Rumah Gadang, mostly residential or government buildings in Batusangkar.
Balimbing
Balimbing (called also Balimbiang) is a small village, located between Batusangkar and Lake Singkarak. It looks like most of the other villages in this area, and you can see here and there some small residential Minangkabau houses.
But among them, a bit remote, beside one of the small roads, you can see a different house. It is called Rumah Tuo Kampai nan Panjang and is considered the oldest surviving and preserved Minangkabau house, probably about 300 years old. It has a thatched double roof. The wooden house stands on pillars and is a remarkable example of traditional Minangkabau residential architecture. During our visit, there was no entrance fee and the site appeared largely unattended, allowing us to see the interior. However, current access arrangements have not been independently confirmed, so visitors should check locally and obtain permission before entering the building.
Pariangan
Pariangan is a village, located on the southern slope of Mt Marapi. It is considered the oldest Minangkabau village, the route, and the core of this ethnic group. Today, most of its houses are Rumah Gadang in traditional style- more than in the other villages around.
They are not museums, but residential houses, some of them opened as guesthouses. Yes, there is a small museum, presenting the local culture, but the main attraction here is the village itself, beautifully established under the volcano. It offers not only a sense of culture and history but also spectacular landscapes.
Pandai Sikek
This is another village in this area, full of traditional Minangkabau culture. It is known for its crafts, songkek fabric, and ethno art. Again many of its houses are built in Rumah Gadang style. Most of them are residential.
But one of the houses is more special than the others. It is called Rumah Tenun Pusako, and not only its roof but the whole building is richly ornamented with traditional elements. In addition, there is a beautiful garden with a pond beside it, which makes it incredibly picturesque. During our visit, Rumah Tenun Pusako functioned as a traditional craft store displaying and selling local textiles, clothing, souvenirs, and artworks. Its richly ornamented architecture and garden also made it an interesting place to explore. Current opening arrangements should be confirmed locally before visiting.
Bukittinggi
Bukittinggi is the largest city in the Minangkabau highlands. It is not only full of local culture, but also a tourist attraction, presenting several points of interest: Sianok Canyon, the Japanese Tunnels, Fort de Kock Park with the Zoo, its main iconic symbol- Jam Gadang Clock Tower, and more. Here you can see a lot of residential houses, as well as government buildings in Minangkabau traditional style.
But one of the Rumah Gadang is more special than the others. It is located in the middle of the Zoo, and it is called Taman Margasatwa dan Budaya Kinantan. The house is relatively new, today used as the Historical and Ethnographic Museum of Bukittinggi. It has two floors, with a thatched roof and it is richly ornamented. To visit it, you have to enter the whole tourist site that contains this house, Fort de Kock Park, Limpapeh Bridge, and the Zoo, through one of the two entrances.
Padang
Finally, we get to Padang– the largest city in West Sumatra and its capital. Padang is not located exactly in the original land of Minangkabau but at the coast of the ocean. Nevertheless, since it is the modern administrative center of the province, it still presents a lot of Minangkabau culture and architecture.
Again, here you can see a lot of Minangkabau traditional houses- governmental (including the Minangkabau Airport) and residential. But one of them is more special, and it is a tourist attraction. This is Museum Adityawarman. It is the main and largest Historical and Ethnographical museum in West Sumatra, presenting not only the history and culture of Minangkabau, but also the natural diversity, the culture of the Mentawai people, and more.
Again, unlike the other Rumah Gadang, this one is fully ornamented, with two rice barns (rankiang) in front of it. It is located in a beautiful garden and today is one of the main attractions in the city of Padang.
These are some of the best examples of Rumah Gadang architecture around the island of Sumatra, mostly in the province of West Sumatra. Of course, there are many more Minangkabau houses in this area, and they not only preserve the local traditions and culture but also create a very exotic atmosphere for visitors. They are one of the iconic symbols of West Sumatra. So, if you plan a trip to this part of the world, include a visit to at least one Rumah Gadang if you want to explore this land in depth.
Check some travel books about Minangkabau people and culture:
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
Krasen and Ying Ying
Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually. So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration. And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality. Enjoy!
