Uzgen- a Cultural Gem in the Ferghana Valley, Kyrgyzstan

Uzgen- a Cultural Gem in the Ferghana Valley, Kyrgyzstan

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Ferghana Valley is a special place in Central Asia, keeping a lot of culture and history, today shared between three countries- Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. The largest cities in the valley are Osh (Kyrgyzstan), Andijan, Namangan (Uzbekistan), and Khujand (Tajikistan). However, there is a smaller town, a key point for travelers around the valley who want to cross from Osh to the north and northeast of Kyrgyzstan. This is Uzgen and it has something to reveal.

Basic info

This is a special region in Central Asia, with special geography, history, and culture. It has a lot to reveal, at the same time, it is a starting (or ending) point for journeys to the Pamir Highway on the south, to the Central Asian lowlands on the west, to the mountains of Tian Shan on the north and northwest, and to Xinjiang in China on the east.

In this article, our focus is on the town of Uzgen in Kyrgyzstan. Although it is not the largest settlement in Ferghana Valley, its location is very strategic, and it has significant historical remnants worth exploring.

Some geography

One of the largest rivers in Central Asia is the Syrdarya River. It forms from two smaller rivers (Naryn and Karadarya), flowing from the high mountain ranges of Southern Tian Shan and the Alay Range. When these two rivers descend from the mountains, they merge in a large valley at 400 m altitude, forming the Syrdarya River.

This is the Ferghana Valley, separating the mountains of Tian Shan and the Alay Range. If we consider the Alay Range a part of Pamir, then the valley separates Tian Shan from Pamir. Further west, at Khujand (300 m altitude), the valley gets narrower, and then it opens into the vast lowlands of western Central Asia.

Uzgen from above
Uzgen from above

The connection between southern Kyrgyzstan and the rest of the country

Today, the valley is full of country borders, dividing Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan, so it is not too easy to explore. Instead, you can travel only through the border checkpoints (with the necessary documents and border-crossing procedures). But if you want to cross from Osh to the north of Kyrgyzstan, avoiding the borders, the best (and the only) way is to pass through Uzgen, the easternmost city in the Ferghana Valley.

So, you want to move from Osh to northern Kyrgyzstan (or vice versa), without crossing a border. In this case, your goal is the city of Jalal-Abad, through Uzgen. You can get a direct marshrutka (minibus) between Osh and Jalal-Abad. But why don’t you divide this route into two, with a stop in Uzgen?

Why should you stop in Uzgen?

What’s so special about Uzgen? Osh is a big city with a lot of culture and history to explore. On the other hand, Jalal-Abad is a modern city with almost nothing special to see. But what about Uzgen?

The southern part of Central Asia is known for its splendid Medieval architecture, dating mostly from the Khwarezmid and Qarakhanid empires (11-13th centuries AD). You have probably heard about the astonishing sites of Bukhara and Samarkand in Uzbekistan, which are some of the best representatives of this era. Such architectural style can be found in other places in Central Asia, and if you look for them in Kyrgyzstan, the best place where you can find them is Uzgen.

The Mausolea of Uzgen, from the Minaret
The Mausolea of Uzgen, from the Minaret

Some history

Uzgen is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, with more than 2000 years of history. It is mentioned for the first time in the 2nd century BC, but due to its special location- the easternmost end of the Ferghana Valley, at the northern bank of Karadarya River, it is very likely that it has existed since much earlier times.

Uzgen has been established as an important trade point on one of the Silk Road routes. It survived the rise and fall of various kingdoms and empires. The most prominent of them were: the Saka kingdoms (4th-1st centuries BC), Kushan Empire (1st century BC – 4th century AD), Hephtalite Empire (4th-6th centuries), Turk Khaganates (6th-8th centuries), the Islamic conquest and the Arab Caliphates (8th-10th centuries), Samanid Empire (10th-11th centuries), and Kwarezmid and Karakhanid Empires (11th-13th centuries).

Karakhanid era

The time of the Karakhanid Empire was the golden age for Uzgen. The city became the second capital of the empire, known as Mavarannahr. This is the time when the main points of interest- the famous Uzgen Minaret, as well as the three Mausolea were built.

Since then, Uzgen experienced declines and blooms again: Mongol Empire (13th-14th centuries), Timurid Empire (14th-15th centuries), local khanates of Bukhara and Kokand (15th-19th centuries), and Russian Empire (19th-20th centuries). After that, Uzgen was included in the Soviet Union (Kyrgyz SSR), and independent Kyrgyzstan, when it gradually became the city we know today.

Artifacts in the museum of Uzgen Minaret
Artifacts in the museum of Uzgen Minaret

My trip to Uzgen

I traveled on the Pamir Highway, from Dushanbe to Osh. After that, my goal was to proceed further through Kyrgyzstan, until I reached the Lake Issyk Kul region and the mountains of Terskey Alatoo. But to do it, first I had to move from Osh to Jalal-Abad. However, I discovered Uzgen and decided to not skip it but to stop and explore what the city has to reveal.

So, I found a marshrutka (minibus) from the New Avtovokzal in Osh (there are a lot of regular marshrutkas between Osh and Uzgen), and arrived in Uzgen in less than 2 hours. Then, I spent another 3 hours to explore the best point of interest- Uzgen Minaret, before I found a shared taxi to Jalal-Abad. I found that it is enough to get the most essential from this city but of course, staying for a longer time always would be better.

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What to do in Uzgen

Uzgen is small and there are only two things you can do and see in the town but they are well worth it.

Visit the main landmark of Uzgen- The Minaret

This is the main reason for visiting Uzgen. The Minaret of Uzgen is an Archaeological-Architectural Museum Complex, located not far from the center. It contains the Minaret itself, one of the mausoleas, and an Archaeological Museum. All of this is in a nice garden with alleys and benches for relaxation.

The Minaret

The Minaret is a 27,5 m tall tower built in the 11th century during the time of the Karakhanid Empire. It had mostly a religious function. The tower consists of an octagon base, a cylindrical part on it, and a small dome, added only recently. Actually, it used to be 44 m tall (according to historical sources) but part of it collapsed in the 17th century due to an earthquake.

So, today the Minaret is well-restored. You can enter inside, and a steep spiral staircase leads you to the upper floor. From there, you can enjoy a nice view of the Museum Complex, the whole town, and the mountains beyond it.

The Minaret of Uzgen
The Minaret of Uzgen

The Karakhanid Mausolea

The next is the three Mausolea, adjacent to each other into one building.

The first of them was built in 1013. It is the middle one and it is the largest of the three. It was made for the Karakhanid ruler Nasr ibn Ali (996-1013). Then, 144 years later (in 1157), the northern mausoleum was built, for Jalal al-Dunya wa’l-Din Husayn (1132-1156), a relative of Genghis Khan. The latest of them is the southern one (it is the smallest), built in 1187 for an unknown local ruler.

You can enter in the three of them, one by one (currently, you can enter into the southern mausoleum only from the interior of the middle one). They are generally empty, with only a few relics from the Karakhanid era. The most “full” mausoleum is the northern one where you can see stones with inscriptions. Today, the whole building of the three mausoleums is covered by a metal frame to protect them from the elements outside.

The three Mausolea in one building
The three Mausolea in one building

The Museum

Finally, you should visit the museum behind the mausoleums. It is dedicated mostly to the time of the Karakhanids but there are some artifacts from other time periods.

Working time: 8:30 – 19:00, every day
Entrance fee: 50 som

Dive into the bustling center

Actually, the center is the first thing you would see. It is quite crowded, full of big and small shops, stands, offices, banks, and many more buildings. Some people don’t like crowds but this crowd has a different vibe- although everything is modern, it still has something quite “local” and “historical”.

A large portion of the Uzgen population is Uzbek (more than 20%), and the local Uzbeks add to the specific Central Asian atmosphere of the city. That’s why, although the center is crowded, it is like a living “open-air museum” of the local culture. Besides, the people of Uzgen are pride with their local rice “devzira” in brownish color- you can try it.

In the center of Uzgen
In the center of Uzgen

Useful tips

Once you arrive in Osh, the main city in southern Kyrgyzstan, Uzgen is easily accessible. As mentioned above, there are regular marshrutkas (minibusses) that depart from New Avtovokzal in Osh and arrive in Uzgen for a bit more than an hour. If you come from the north, there are also regular marshrutkas from Jalal-Abad (Jalal-Abad Avtovokzal).

There are also regular direct marshrutkas between Osh and Jalal-Abad, and they stop in Uzgen too. The main point in Uzgen where the marshrutkas stop is here (notice the crowded mess of cars visible from the satellite map of Google from above!), only a 5 min far from the Minaret.

But if you want to leave Uzgen and proceed further, better not wait at this point (passing marshrutkas stop there but they are usually crowded already). Instead, go here – this is the local Avtovokzal (bus station). Besides marshrutkas, you can easily find shared taxis there too.

Marshrutkas in the New Avtovokzal, Osh
Marshrutkas in the New Avtovokzal, Osh

Accommodation?

If you want to plan a staying one night in Uzgen, there are almost no options for accommodation there. On Google Maps you can see a few “homestays” and a “hostel”, and that’s all. All of them have worked (or sometimes work) occasionally. Most likely you would go there, find the place, and there would be nobody or just it is closed. There is nothing on Booking, Agoda, or any other accommodation platform too.

So, better focus on Osh or Jalal-Abad for accommodation. If your route is to the north (Bishkek or Kazarman), Jalal-Abad would be a good and convenient place to get something (marshrutka or shared taxi) from early morning. Or, if your route heads southward- proceed to Osh, where you can find a lot of options to stay.

To or from Uzbekistan

The nearest border pass to and from Uzbekistan is Karasu-Uchkurgan. However, no direct marshrutkas are crossing the border. If you come from Uzbekistan, first you have to go to Karasu by local transport, then cross the border on foot, and proceed further to Kyrgyzstan with another transport.

But a much better and easier option is to cross the border at Osh, explore the city, and then proceed to Uzgen (or another place on your route). It is the same in the opposite direction. In this option, you can find much more transport on both sides of the border.

This is Uzgen, a small but precious cultural jewel of Central Asia. So, if you travel from Osh to the rest of Kyrgyzstan, or if you come to Osh from the rest of the country, plan a stop in Uzgen. You will definitely enrich your cultural Central Asian experience.

Take a look at the video about Uzgen below: 

Check some travel books about Kyrgyzstan:

    

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Traveling between southern Kyrgyzstan and rest of the country without border crossing passes Uzgen- a cultural gem you should explore. Traveling between southern Kyrgyzstan and rest of the country without border crossing passes Uzgen- a cultural gem you should explore. Traveling between southern Kyrgyzstan and rest of the country without border crossing passes Uzgen- a cultural gem you should explore.

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