Osh is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan, the main cultural center in the southern part of the country, and one of the Central Asian city jewels. It is also the starting or ending point of one of the most epic routes in the world—the Pamir Highway. So, if you travel on this route or visit Osh for another reason, plan your stay there with ideas about things to do in the city!
Table of Contents
Basic info about Osh
Culturally, Central Asia can be divided into two regions. The first region has a deeper history, more architectural jewels, and a more Islamic atmosphere. It is tightly related to the routes of the epic Silk Road, with its caravanserais, trade connections between the ancient kingdoms, and a lot of art. This region mostly includes the vast lowlands of Central Asia and its deserts, mainly in the south.
The other region has a different vibe—nomads, horses, endless grasslands, yurts, eagles, and flocks of sheep, yaks, and other livestock. It is more Siberian-Mongolian related, mainly in the north and in the high mountains of Tian Shan and Altay.
Most of Kyrgyzstan belongs to the second region but Osh is different- it is located in the first region and presents its typical vibes.
Some geography
Let’s look into the physical geography. We can see two of the giant mountain ranges in Central Asia- Pamir and Tian Shan. We can also see the two largest Central Asian rivers- Amudarya and Syrdarya. In general, it is considered that Syrdara divides Pamir from the Tian Shan, and it flows through a large fertile valley between the mountain ranges, called Ferghana Valley.
Today, the Ferghana Valley is shared between three countries- Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Kyrgyzstan. Tajikistan possesses the western part of the valley, Uzbekistan- the eastern part, and Kyrgyzstan- the edges of the valley. And here, at the southern edge of Ferghana Valley, near the border between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, you can find Kyrgyz Food Guide.
Ferghana Valley has a long history and rich culture, and Osh is one of the cities that contributes a lot to the cultural inheritance of the area. So, let’s dive into its history because exploring the city with more historical and cultural understanding can give you a richer experience.
Some history
One of the first things a traveler visiting Osh can see is a sharp three-peaked mountain in the middle of the city. This is not an ordinary mountain. It is not only in sharp contrast with the surrounding cityscape but it is also considered sacred and an object of pilgrimage since ancient times.
This mountain is called Sulayman-Too and it is the core of Osh and its history.
Distant past
The area around Osh has been inhabited since ancient times by various peoples known as Saka, Yuezhi, Scythians, Tocharians, and more. Some of them were constant settlers, others were nomads.
At the end of the 5th century BC, the Achaemenid Persian empire reached its peak and conquered a large portion of Central Asia. It is unclear whether Persians actually conquered Ferghana Valley but they certainly had some influence on the area.
Early empires and kingdoms
The first empire that conquered Ferghana Valley and the area around Mount Sulayman Too was the Macedonian Empire of Alexander the Great. It brought the Hellenistic culture here and its distant influence can be felt even today.
After the division of the Macedonian Empire in the beginning of the 3rd century BC, its successor kingdoms arose one after another in the region. The first of them were Hellenistic: Seleucid Empire (3rd century BC), and the Greco-Bactrian kingdoms (2nd-1st centuries BC).
After their decline, the next kingdoms and empires brought different cultures and religions- Zoroastrianism, Buddhism, and Shamanism. They were the Kushan Empire (1st century BC – 3rd century AD), the Hephtalite Empire (4th – 6th centuries), and the Turkic Khanates (6th-8th centuries).
This is the time when Mount Sulayman-Too became a special sacred mountain for Zoroastrism. Due to the regular pilgrimage in the area, the small villages around the mountain started to grow, merged, markets were established, and it gradually lead to formation of the early version of Osh.
Medieval times
Islam came to the Ferghana Valley in the 8th century. In the beginning, it was the Arab Omayad Caliphate, which was replaced by the Abbasid Caliphate (8th-10th centuries). After its decline, several smaller empires arose: the Samanid Empire (10th century), Qarakhanid, and Khwarezmid empires (10th-13th centuries). They left a lot of art, poetry, and architecture.
The last of these empires was wiped out by the Mongols (13th – 14th centuries). After its fall, there were two Mongolian descendant empires: the Timurid Empire (14th-15th centuries) and the Mughal Empire (15th-16th centuries). It is supposed that Babur, the founder of the latter one was born in Osh. Today, you can see his Mausoleum on the eastern top of the mountain.
After the fall of the Mughal Empire, Central Asia was divided between local khanates- Khiva, Kokand, Bukhara, and Kashgar. The khanates of Kokand and Bukhara both have ruled over the Ferghana Valley until arriving of Russians.
Modern Osh
The Russians first appeared in the beginning of the 19th century and in 1876, during the so-called “Great Game” with the UK, they fully conquered the whole of Central Asia, including Osh. Then, after 1917 and the Communist revolution, USSR was created. Modern borders (at that time borders between autonomous republics within USSR) were established and Osh was included into one of its autonomous republics- Kyrgyz SSR.
At that time, Osh was inhabited mostly by Uzbeks but from 1960, with the industrialization of the city, many Kyrgyz migrated to Osh, and until the end of USSR, it triggered hidden tensions. These tensions broke out into two bloody riots after the independence of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan- in 1990 and in 2010.
After the second riot when many local Uzbeks fled into the neighboring Uzbekistan, the violence ended. Osh became almost fully Kyrgyz city and prospered. It also gradually attracted tourism with its rich culture and history and as the starting/ending point of the epic Pamir Highway.
Some culture
The cities in the Ferghana Valley look noticeably different than the cities in the northern part of Kyrgyzstan (like Bishkek or Karakol). Again, this is due to the difference between the two Central Asian cultural regions described above.
While Bishkek and Karakol have more “Soviet era” image, with wide boulevards, low building blocks, and a lot of parks, Osh looks more crowded and bustling. Although most of its citizens are Kyrgyz, it still has its Uzbek vibe.
You can feel it everywhere- in the street markets, in the parks, or just on the streets. Traditionally, the Kyrgyz people’s culture is more “northern” and nomadic, but here, in Osh, due to the unique history and geography, the city became a typical “Southern Central Asian” Kyrgyz cultural center.
My journey to Osh
Osh was the endpoint of my epic Pamir Highway trip. And I wanted to “celebrate” the end of this route more precisely. That’s why, when arrived in the city, I focused on its main points of interest, presenting its history, its culture, and geography.
Of course, I visited Mount Sulayman-Too and the main museums in Osh but I also dived into the modern culture of the city- its main market and park. It was enough to get the basic impression of Osh before proceed further.
So, below is what I explored and what more I would explore if I had more time.
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Things to do in Osh
Osh is not too rich of places to visit. In fact, the interesting places are only around Mount Sulayman-Too and east of it. The rest is just a normal residential urban area. Yes, this area is also exotic to foreigners but still the best part of the city is around its points of interest.
For first-timers: get familiar with the local life!
This is mostly for those who visit Osh and Kyrgyzstan for the first time. If you arrive in Osh for whatever reason- starting or ending a Pamir Highway journey, exploring the culture and history of Ferghana Valley, etc., plan some time to explore the city.
As mentioned above, the whole city would be an interesting and exotic place for shopping, trying some food, or just wandering around and watching the local people, their behavior, and their environment.
Explore the main jewel of Osh- Sulayman-Too
This is the main attraction and symbol of Osh. It is steep and sharp. From aside it looks like a resting Bactrian camel with two humps and a saddle between them. Since ancient times it was considered a sacred mountain, with many tales and legends assigned to it. As mentioned above- this mountain is the reason for existing of Osh City.
During most of its history, Mount Sulayman-Too was used as a religious site. It was considered that here is the tomb of Sulayman (King Solomon of ancient Israel), and this story was a reason for various beliefs.
In modern times, this mountain was turned into a park, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the only one in Kyrgyzstan).
How to explore Mount Sulayman-Too
It is easy to explore. The mountain park has two main sites- the Cave Museum and the Viewpoint of Osh with the Mausoleum of Babur-Namey. The park has two gates and a trail that connects them, passing through the two main spots. The normal, legal way to explore the mountain is to enter from one of the gates, visit the two spots on the way, and exit from the other gate. Yes, you can see many other “wild” trails leading to other parts of the mountain but don’t follow them, they are forbidden.
Currently, the gates to the park are free (at least, I didn’t need to pay anything), although some other sites suggest 20 som entrance fee.
Cave Museum
It is the most attractive branch of the National Historical and Archaeological Museum Complex Sulayman. The museum is built in the Soviet era, in a carved cave with two exits. You enter through the lower exit (the gate), explore the lower hall, ascend on stairs inside the mountain to the upper gate, and exit from there.
The Cave Museum is one of the largest museums in Kyrgyzstan. It presents mostly archaeological and some natural artifacts, as well as some paintings, sculptures, handicraft items, and more.
Although the museum is quite impressive, it still needs more investment and more educational information inside to help you fully immerse in the ancient history of Osh. Nevertheless, it is still worth visiting and the panoramic views from its exit in a shape of arc are fantastic.
Working hours: from 9:00 to 18:00. Monday- closed.
Entrance fee: 150 som
The viewpoint of Osh and Mausoleum of Babur-Namey
This is a spot on the eastern slope of the mountain, with the best panoramic views of the city. Here is the largest flag of Kyrgyzstan in Osh, and right beside it is the Mausoleum of Babur-Namey.
This mausoleum is a former mosque built by Babur Shah in 1510. In recent years it was restored as a shrine- a small construction in classical architectural style. You can’t enter inside but you can take photos of it from aside.
The whole trail, from gate to gate is about 1800 m (a mile) long and you can plan about an hour and a half to two hours to explore the mountain. Keep in mind that there is no water on the way, so bring some bottle, especially in the hot summer!
There are two cemeteries at the northern and the southern slopes but they are not “officially” related to the trail. And there is the big Sulayman-Too Mosque, built at the southern foot of the mountain.
Visit the National Historical Museum of Osh
This museum is the other main branch of the National Historical and Archaeological Museum Complex Sulayman.
Its theme is close to the theme in the Cave Museum but here it is more emphasized on the continuous history of Osh and Kyrgyzstan, including the modern history. At the same time, the museum still presents some archaeological and ethnographical artifacts.
The museum is located out of Sulayman-Too park, not far from the northeastern gate. It is a large two-storey building in bended shape, at the foot of the mountain. The main expositions are established on the second floor.
Working hours: from 9:00 to 18:00. Monday- closed.
Entrance fee: 150 som
Local lifestyle- walk around Jayma Market
Oper-ain markets in Central Asia are famous for their colorful and bustling atmosphere. They are full of every type of stocks and products- fruits, vegetables, spices, clothes, daily life accessories, toys, mobile phone accessories, and many more. And Jayma Market is a typical example of a Central Asian market.
Jayma Market (called also Jayma Bazaar) is located right beside the Ak-Buura River (the main river that crosses Osh). It is established around a main covered street, with countless small and big shops and stalls on the both sides. It is always full of people, smells, and noises. This is what creates its charm and makes it one of the best places to experience the local culture and lifestyle.
So, you can go there and just walk, even without buying anything, just for diving into the atmosphere and taking some photos or videos. But there are many things that are exclusively local and it is always worth buying and trying them.
Stroll around Alisher Navoy Park
Many parks in the world look similar- alleys, greenery, some children playgrounds, and people who walk around leisurely. But this one is more than this- it is another place where you can dive into the local culture. That’s why I recommend visiting it as one of the main attractions of Osh.
Alisher Navoy Park is the southern extension of Jayma Market- the same covered alley proceeds southward, first passing under a large boulevard of the city. You enter the gate of the park and find yourself in a vibrant amusement area- I have never seen so many playgrounds in one place: from slides, swings, and carousels to shooting galleries, Ferris wheels, pirate boats, and many, many more.
The park is full of people who walk around and make it a meeting places. Sometimes you can see some performances of various kinds. Finally, you can visit the local Zoo, the Circus, or if you visit Osh in summer, to the swimming pools of Dolphin resort.
Try the Kyrgyz cuisine
This is not a “special point” to visit but an experience that can add to the strolling of Osh just like adding salt or spices to a meal.
Kyrgyz cuisine is typical for Central Asia. Many dishes in Kyrgyzstan can be found in the neighboring Central Asian countries, including Xinjiang in China, but it still has some local nuances.
The most typical dishes you should try are:
- Shashlik: skewered chunks of mutton or beef, grilled over charcoals.
- Beshbarmak: boiled mutton, beef, or horse meat in its own broth with noodles.
- Dimlama: a mixture of vegetables and meat (mutton or beef), with potatoes and even some fruits.
- Laghman: another type of stew with meat, vegetables, and noodles.
- Paloo (Kyrgyz plov): pieces of meat with cooked rice.
Other dishes include samsa, manty, kuurdak, mastawa, and more. For more details, take a look at this Kyrgyz Food Guide.
The best restaurants you can try these are Borsok Restaurant, Manas Ata Restorany, Uluk-Ata, and Oligarkh Restarany. The first three are near the center of the city, while the last one is in the western suburbs so you can plan your Osh itinerary accordingly, for a lunch or a dinner.
More things to see and do in Osh
Above is the most essential for a traveler to see, do, feel, and touch in Osh. But of course, there are always some additional things. Take a look at these:
- Three-storey yurt. This is the tallest and the most attractive yurt in Central Asia. It is located in the calm Alymbek Datka Park and is one of the symbols of Osh. Its interior is something like a mix between an ethnographic museum and a gift shop.
- Lenin Statue. This is the tallest statue of Lenin in Central Asia. It is located in the Alisher Navoy’s neighboring Toktogul Part.
- Uzbek Neighborhood. This is an area south of Sulayman-Too, where you can feel the historical roots of Osh- the Uzbek style of houses. Most of the remaining Uzbeks in Osh live there.
- Regional Museum of Fine Arts. A nice museum, located near the northeastern gate of Sulayman-Too Park. Dedicated to Mount Sulayman-Too. Presents art pieces (mostly pictures) of the mountain from various angles, in various styles.
How to reach Osh and roam around it
Osh is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan, located in a very strategic position in Central Asia- not in the center of Kyrgyzstan but near the border with three countries- Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. So, it is well-connected to the neighboring countries and destinations.
The thing is that Osh is better connected to the neighboring Uzbekistan than to Bishkek and the northeast of Kyrgyzstan. The reason for that is the high mountains that separate Osh with the rest of the country.
By plane
The gateway to Osh by plane is Osh International Airport. It has connections to Russia, China (Urumqi, Xinjiang), Turkey (Istanbul), and Uzbekistan (Tashkent). Currently, this is the best way to travel from Bishkek to Osh, although it is a bit expensive.
By bus or marshrutka
The main entry point for this type of transport is Osh Avtovokzal (Bus Station, located in the northern suburbs of the city, near the border with Uzbekistan.
Currently, Osh is still separated from the rest of Kyrgyzstan. It has a good connection with the Kyrgyz part of the Ferghana Valley, especially the cities of Uzgen, Jalal Abad, and Batken. But the connection to the other regions of the country is still under development.
There are marshrutkas (minibuses) between Bishkek and Osh, traveling overnight- a long way of travel, without the opportunity to enjoy the mountain scenery outside but at least with sleeping bunks.
There is also a daily marshrutka from Sary-Moghol, on the last (or first) section of the Pamir Highway to Osh. It starts from Sary-Moghol early morning (at 7:00 am) and arrives in Osh around noon.
The good news is that the new road EM-12, connecting Osh with Balykchy and northeast Kyrgyzstan is already open, so you can expect a new marshrutka traveling on this route soon. This is the new, shortest connection between Osh and Lake Issyk Kul region.
There are also international road connections- to China and Uzbekistan. A marshrutka from Andijan (Uzbekistan) take you to the border, then you can take a taxi to the center of Osh. There is also an overnight bus from Kashgar (China) via Irkeshtam Pass to Osh- two times a week.
Other ways of reaching Osh
The other ways to reach Osh- from Pamir Highway, from Bishkek, from Issyk Kul region (including Naryn, through Kazarman), and from the west (Batken or Uzbekistan) include shared taxis, hitchhiking, organized tours, or your own vehicle (car, motorcycle, bicycle).
The price for a shared taxi is a bit higher than for a marshrutka and highly depends on the number of passengers. But it still can be affordable, even for distances like Bishkek-Osh (somewhere around 1500 som per person).
Hitchhiking is easy too- locals are open to picking strangers and it is perfectly normal.
You can join an organized tour too. There are two types of tours. The first type starts from Osh and leads to some interesting destinations- mostly on the Pamir Highway- to Lake Tulpar or Lenin Peak Base Camp, or on the Pamir Highway to the border with Tajikistan. If you join such a Pamir Highway tour and come from Tajikistan, you can arrange it in advance, so they can wait you at the border (Kyzyl-Art Pass).
The second type of tours are long-distance international itineraries, for example- from Bishkek to Dushanbe (but not on Pamir Highway), only passing through Osh.
Finally, you can rent a car or a motorcycle from Bishkek or from another neighboring country- if you are not a Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan citizen, you can cross the border on the Pamir Highway with this vehicle. Or, of course, you can do it with your own vehicle, as a part of a long-distance, cross-continent adventure.
Roaming around the city
Once you arrive in Osh, roaming around the city is easy. You just have to reach the center, around the eastern foot of Mt Sulayman-Too, and most points of interest are there, within a walkable distance. In fact, you would need some transport only if you want to reach Osh Avtovokzal, or if you choose a hotel in the suburbs.
You can do it by taxi, and it is very cheap, even to the farthest suburbs of the city, for no more than about 300 som. There are also public marshrutkas (the cheapest transport) but you have to know their routes to use them (and they are usually crowded).
Where to stay in Osh
Accommodation in Osh is relatively cheap, even the splurge hotels. Except for a few luxurious hotels, the prices for the others are between 10 and 70 USD. You can easily find them on Booking or Agoda. The level of luxury depends on your budget and preferences.
Another good thing is that most hotels are located in and around the center, in a walkable distance from the main points of interest, as well as from the best restaurants in the city.
Check for hotels in Osh on Booking!
Check for hotels in Osh on Agoda!
Language
People in Osh speak Kyrgyz and Russian. If you know some Russian, you are perfectly ok. But if not, you may have some communication difficulties, since most people can’t speak English (but usually young people can, as well as people at the tourist spots). In such a case, you may need Google Translate, and for that, you would need a SIM card.
SIM card
Getting a SIM card in Osh is easy. There are three mobile operators in Kyrgyzstan: O!, Beeline, and Megacom. All of them are good for Osh but if you go to some distant areas, signals can be scarce. So, if you plan to proceed to such areas, you better buy Beeline because it is the oldest mobile operator in the country, with the largest area of coverage.
You can buy SIM cards from the airport but if you miss it, you can do it in various offices around the city. The procedure is fast and convenient, for about 10 min you can get a new SIM card.
Money
One of the first things you would want to do is to exchange some money. If you arrive in Osh by plane, there is no money changer in the airport, only an ATM (it still can work, at least to get some money to move to the center). But if you arrive on land through the border with Uzbekistan, you can change money in a good money changing office nearby.
Once you arrive in the center of Osh, you can find a lot of money changers and ATMs. They offer almost the same rates so you don’t need to research too much- the differences are too neglectable.
Weather and seasons
Osh is located in the semi-dry sub-tropical to moderate zone. Its altitude is between 800 and 1000 m. Summer is hot but not extremely hot- Alay Range is not far and it still provides some cool breeze. This is the highest season for traveling, mostly because it is the best time to travel on the Pamir Highway and Osh as a part of it.
Autumn and spring are nice seasons- relatively cool and relatively dry, especially autumn. Finally, winter is cold but not as cold as in the high mountains. There are occasional snowfalls but snow doesn’t cover Osh for long, it quickly melts.
This is Osh- a city full of Central Asian vibes and contrasts. But only a real trip can give you a full impression of it. And if you make Osh an important stop on your longer journey through this part of the Earth, you can feel the adventure fragrance everywhere around it.
Take a look at the videos about Osh below:Â
Check some travel books about Kyrgyzstan:
 
 
 
 
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Hi, we are Krasen and Ying Ying. Krasen is from Bulgaria, and Ying Ying is from China. We are passionate about geography and history, and we believe that the best way to experience it is by exploring the Earth in reality, not in a school, and not virtually.
So, we created this blog Journey Beyond the Horizon, where we share geographical knowledge, travel guides and tips how to experience it when you explore our planet, and a lot of inspiration.
And we wish you a happy journey, not just virtually, but most of all- in reality.
Enjoy!
