Is it easy to travel in Xinjiang? Yes, but there are certain Xinjiang travel regulations, which you have to learn before your trip.

Travel regulations for foreigners in Xinjiang

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Xinjiang, the Far West of China is an incredibly beautiful land. Yet it is not a famous tourist destination, but rather an off the beaten path area. Although the tourist invasion is slowly increasing, by visiting it is too far from places like Paris, London, Venice, Taj Mahal, New York, and even the Great Wall of China. There are many reasons for that, and one of them is the travel regulations in Xinjiang, or at least what the foreigners have heard or imagine about it. And indeed, it is not as simple to travel there as in the other provinces of China. But it doesn’t mean that it is impossible or extremely complicated. Let’s learn more about it.

Travel experience in Xinjiang

Xinjiang has attracted me for many years, as soon as I learned about what this land has to offer. I wanted to cross it from west to east, on some of the Silk Road routes. I also wanted to explore it in details. But I have heard that it is not so simple and there are a lot of restrictions. I didn’t know is it safe, or is it easy to be caught by the police for something that I could be unaware, or just to be not allowed to travel here or there.

Checking in the airport

The first time I visited Xinjiang was when we back to China from Kyrgyzstan by plane. We landed in the capital Urumqi at noon, and we had several hours to our train to Changsha in the eastern part of China. Initially, we wanted to use these hours to walk around Urumqi and visit at least 1-2 tourist sites.

So, when we arrived in Urumqi Airport, we had more than an hour to go out, because I had to pass through at least two checks in and registration points. Finally, we went out of the airport and took a taxi to the railway station, because we wanted to leave our luggage there while walking around the city. But again, before arriving there, we were stopped by the police for another checking- again at least for 15 mins. And to enter the railway station itself, passing through a few more checkings, took us another 30 mins. So finally we just gave up and decided to rest inside.

Checking in the railway station

Then, one year later (July’2019) we were in Xinjiang again. This time we built our own itinerary, aiming at some of the most important and popular places there. Our first stop was Turpan, where we arrived by train, at Turpan North Railway Station.

At the exit, two local Uyghur policemen stopped us, and one of them told me to follow him to the nearby police station. He took our passports and gave them to a third Uyghur policeman who entered in his room and we had to wait outside. After 15 mins waiting he appeared again and tried to ask some questions- the reason why we come to Turpan, where will we sleep, when will we leave and where will we go next. These few questions took another 15 mins, because he couldn’t speak English, and his Chinese was very poor too. Anyway, they all were very polite and smiling, and finally, let us go.

Xinjiang travel regulations- Turpan North Railway Station
Turpan North Railway Station

More checkings

Later, during our trip in Xinjiang, we had such checking whenever we enter a city and get on or off a train. There were checkings on all highways and lesser roads, so when we traveled by car, we had to stop in every checking and wait for the policemen to input all our passport information. Which was every time slowly, because it was always difficult for them to read something different than Chinese or Uyghur language.

Travel in the โ€žnormal” Xinjiang

So, what we knew is that most of Xinjiang, maybe around 80% of its area was under strong control, stronger than in the other parts of China. But that was all. Everything else was free for travel, and no matter how do you travel- by plane, by train, by bus, by car or by horse, just have to show your passport in a checking point and be patient. It is good to tell them your clear plan- when will you sleep, when will you leave, what is your next destination. But even if you can’t, that’s no problem, just it is possible to wait a long time.

When we passed through one of the checking points, a policeman there was very helpful, and he explained to us that there is a way to shorten our waiting in the other checking points. Just have to go to Urumqi and obtain something like a travel certificate. Then, when we show it in every checking point, we can wait only a few mins, instead of 15-20 mins. We were not in a hurry, so we didn’t try it.

However, there are some areas in Xinjiang which are not such easy to travel…

Special areas in Xinjiang

Fortunately, these areas are much smaller than the โ€žfree” travel area of Xinjiang. But at the same time, unfortunately, these areas are established in some of the most beautiful and breathtaking places of the province, which means: you can’t just go and enjoy this beauty freely!

Border areas of Xinjiang

Shortly, this is the whole strip of territory along the border between Xinjiang and all the other neighboring countries, out of China. In general, this territory has a special, strengthened regime of visiting and traveling.

But at least for now, it is not the same everywhere. Some border areas are more restricted than others. Especially those who border countries like India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan, which are considered โ€žriskier”.

Karakoram Highway in China

And one of the most beautiful areas in Xinjiang- the Karakoram Highway in Pamir, is located in such area. Until the last year, foreigners could travel there freely. But not now. From 2019 foreigners can travel there only by a licensed travel company. Yes, for many it can be sad and disappointing, but that’s the reality, at least for now.

The travel center in Kashgar

If you want to travel from Kashgar to Tashkurgan, you have to visit the travel center in Kashgar and apply for a travel company there, which can help you to obtain the necessary travel permit. You can’t obtain this permit by yourself. And they will tell you that you must apply for it at least 3 days before your trip to Tashkurgan!

However, usually, there are always some travel companies’ representatives who can reach you and tell you that they can arrange it for you faster, so you can go on a trip right on the next day. And they say the truth actually because this is how we traveled to Tashkurgan- we applied for this trip and on the next day, we were on the bus on the Karakoram Highway. And in general, their service was really satisfying.

But the price for foreigners is much more expensive than for the Chinese. The Chinese had to pay something around 550 CNY per person, and I as a foreigner had to pay 1300 CNY! Our children who have a foreign passport paid half of the price. And this was one of the cheapest companies, there were even more expensive offers!

Xinjiang travel regulations- the Travel Center in Kashgar
The Travel Center in Kashgar

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Our trip to Tashkurgan

Then, following the travel group in our minibus, we made our 2-days trip to Tashkurgan. There are 3 checkpoints from Kashgar to Tashkurgan. The first is still in the lowland, the second is in the middle of the gorge of Gaizi River, and the third is just several kilometers before Tashkurgan. And the most serious check was at the second one (and our guide especially told us to not take photos there). But, since we were following the travel company, everything was normal, just like any other normal checking in the rest of Xinjiang.

Book a trip on the Karakoram Highway!

Other beautiful places, located in the border area are Shipton’s Arch near Kashgar, Xiate Ancient Trail, Sayram Lake, and Kanas Lake. The situation about the Shipton’s Arch is the same. A foreign couple tried to reach it independently but were stopped and let them back to Kashgar.

Book a trip to the Shipton's Arch!

As far as I heard, currently, in 2019, foreigners still can go freely to Sayram Lake and Kanas Lake. But not to Xiate Ancient Trail- even for Chinese, it is closed to hike independently, but only by a licensed company. They say that it is due to โ€žsafety precautions” because they claim that the trail is dangerous. But in fact, it is not more dangerous than the other famous trails in Tianshan, in the interior of Xinjiang.

Crossing the border to or from Xinjiang in China

There are some border crossings to the neighboring countries, as follows:

To Mongolia

For foreigners, there is only one border crossing between Mongolia and Xinjiang. This is Bulgan-Takashiken. There are three more border crossings, but two of them are only for Chinese and Mongols, and the third is only for freight.

To Russia

No border crossing from Xinjiang. Although there is a short border section between China and Russia on the Altay Mountains, nobody can cross it.

To Kazakhstan

There are 4 border crossings which can be used by foreign travelers too, in both directions. And there are 3 more border crossings but restricted only for locals, or currently not in operation.

To Kyrgyzstan

There are 2 border crossings between China and Kyrgyzstan: These are Irkeshtam and Torugart. Torugart is a famous pass, a dream for many travelers. But until now it remains very difficult to pass. Irkeshtam is a little bit easier but still complicated.

To Tajikistan

There is only one border crossing- Qolma Pass. It is opened for foreigners just recently and is complicated for crossing.

To Afghanistan

No border crossings for foreigners. There is one crossing- Wakhjir Pass, but currently completely closed for everybody.

To Pakistan

There is only one border crossing to Pakistan. This is the famous Khunjerab Pass, on the Karakoram Highway. From 2 years ago it is highly restricted for crossing or just visiting.

To India

Actually, this is Kashmir. Since Kashmir, bordering with Xinjiang is a disputed area between India and Pakistan, there is no border crossing.

Obviously, to reach the border crossings, you have to pass through the border areas. Various border crossings have various levels of restriction. We met a couple of foreigners who have entered China (Xinjiang) from Kazakhstan by train through Khorgos, without a problem.

Difficult border crossings

But some border crossings are really difficult. I mentioned Torugart between Kyrgyzstan and China. In 2018 we tried to cross it from Kyrgyzstan. But we were told that first, we had to obtain a permit in Kyrgyzstan side (which was easy). Then we had to contact a travel company (we found Silk Road Tours) in China, which can arrange another travel permit for Xinjiang side, and an expensive private car with a driver to wait for us on the border. It was too complicated so we gave up.

However, many foreigners have tried to cross it and were stopped and sent back. And as I know, now the situation is quite similar to Khunjerab between Pakistan and China. Until recently, it was possible to just reach the border and make a photo at this notorious mountain pass. Now you can’t unless you are preparing to cross it (with all the necessary documents and other travel details).

Besides, most of the border crossing are often closed, especially in winter. Their working time is highly limited, and the closures often happen without warning. Here you can see the map of all border crossings of Xinjiang.ย 

Special autonomous areas

Yes, there is an area in the interior of Xinjiang, far from the border, which is not as the other โ€žnormal” areas. This is Hejing (ๅ’Œ้™), a Mongol Autonomous County, known as the โ€žmost bordered county in the world”. And some of the most spectacular destinations in Xinjiang are located within it- Bayan Buluk on Du Ku Highway, Tekes, and a part of Wusun Ancient Trail.

I have a Chinese driving license, so I can drive a car in China (including Xinjiang). After our trip on Du Ku Highway, I have read an article in a website which says that foreigners, even with a driving license can’t drive there freely, but must obtain a travel permit for the area.

Xinjiang travel regulations- along the Du Ku Highway
Along the Du Ku Highway

Our experience on Du Ku Highway

At that time I didn’t know it and we traveled on the whole Du Ku Highway, from Kuqa to Dushanzi without any problem. Nobody stopped us. In fact, there is only one checking point near Narati Grassland. The policemen saw me, the driving foreigner, and didn’t even stop me for registration, just said to everybody to pass quickly, to avoid traffic jam.

No independent foreigners in the tourist sites

Yes, there was another problem in this area. We arrived in Bayan Buluk and wanted to visit the Bayan Buluk Grassland and Swan Lake. The people at the entrance told us that we have to go to the travel center and buy tickets from there. So we found this travel center, in the other part of Bayan Buluk town, and I entered inside for tickets.

But a policeman there told me that this area is not opened for foreigners. The only way to visit Bayan Buluk Grassland is to go to the travel center in Urumqi and obtain a travel permit there. Not only that, but he said that we must leave the town within 30 mins, otherwise he has to call the other policemen and to ask me a lot of questions. He apologized that it was not him who created these regulations, but we all haven’t a choice and have to obey.

So, we went outside of Bayan Buluk town, just a km outside. There we found a nice grassland with horses, sheep, and cows, and enjoyed the stunning landscape for almost 2 hours. No checkpoints around, nobody came to check me, we were completely free.

No hotels for independent foreigners

Before we traveled on Du Ku Highway, we were looking for a hotel in Bayan Buluk. There wasn’t any hotel there which could accept foreigners. We felt strange about it, and when we met the policeman, we understood why. Anyway, since the road was temporarily damaged by a small landslide, we spent the night in the car, waiting for the dawn to proceed.

So, to conclude- foreigners CAN travel on Du Ku Highway, Tekes and Wusun Ancient Trail (if not closed for other reasons), but CAN’T sleep in hotels there, CAN’T visit Swan Lake of Bayan Buluk Grassland (and maybe can’t visit other travel sites with entrance ticket too) independently, and are required just to move quickly. But since there is only one checking point, and normally no policemen check people randomly, foreigners can sleep in cars, in tents, even in some local yurts without problem (although technically it is not allowed).

Other travel limits in the โ€žnormal” part of Xinjiang

We faced such limits when we drove a car from Kashgar to Maigaiti N39 area of Taklamakan Desert. Basically, this area is free. There are 2-3 checking points, but they are just normal. Initially, our goal was not Maigaiti, but Karsu- another place at the edge of Taklamakan Desert near Kargilik (Yecheng).

But when we arrived at the last checking point before Karsu, the policemen politely explained that just that day there was a โ€žspecial activity” in Kargilik, so foreigners are not allowed to proceed further. If I really want to visit Karsu, I was welcomed to come again several days later. But now I had to leave, and they advised us to visit Maigaiti N39, which was free to travel.

So we visited Maigaiti N39 instead. The road passes through a nice and beautifully decorated town, and we wanted to take some photos of the houses. Then, at that moment, a policewoman called us and warned us to NOT make any photos in the area, but only in the desert. There was another small checking point and the local Uyghur policemen didn’t register me, but also told us to not take photos.

Xinjiang travel regulations- Maigaiti N39
Maigaiti N39 entrance

Forbidden areas in Xinjiang

There are such areas too. You will not see them marked on any map, but they exist. Usually, these are military areas or secret areas of other kinds. Initially, we planned to visit an ancient village at the edge of Taklamakan Desert, called Luoburen (or Luobu Man), not far from Korla. But when I mentioned it to the Chinese girls of our Kashgar hostel’s personnel, they told me to forget to go there. It is completely forbidden for foreigners. They said that they indeed were there, but only by a travel company, and were not allowed to take any photos.

As I know, there are other forbidden areas in Xinjiang, mainly in the border areas, or near Lop Nur area. And since it is difficult to find any information which are these places and where you can reach to their entrance and be stopped by the local police. They will not arrest you, but just politely will tell you that it is closed and you have to back. That’s not a serious problem, unless you may lose precious time and waste money to reach the place.

The area at the border with the Tibetan Autonomous Region

It is another difficult area. You can see southern Silk Road highway from Kashgar through Hotan, Qiemo, and Ruoqiang to Xining. This road is opened for foreigners. But only several kilometers south of the road, and south of these cities, foreigners are not allowed to travel free. Although the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR) is not another country, but a part of China, this area has even more strengthened regulations than the other border areas.

This area is, in fact, the wildest part of Xinjiang. Only one road crosses it, in direction to Lhasa in Tibet- this is the โ€žheavenly road” G219, starting from Kargilik (Yecheng). There are only a few other roads which enter in the area, but not go too far and end in the mountain wilderness before even approach closely to Tibet.

If foreigners want to travel there, it could be possible only by a travel company, obtaining the necessary travel permit. But since these places are not a popular tourist destination like Tashkurgan, it would be much more difficult to find such a travel company. And it would be much more expensive. And that’s not all…

Special natural areas

There are also some special natural areas, which require more travel permits, and some hired personnel with you.

High mountain peaks

Every mountaineer and most mountain hikers know that. It is not only in Xinjiang, but everywhere in the world- the high mountain peaks are expensive. There is a mountain climbing tax which you must pay if you want to climb it. The higher is the peak, the price is more expensive and can reach even tens of thousands of dollars.

Muztagh Ata (7509 m) is well known as the easiest 7000-er, as it doesn’t require mountaineering skills and gear. You can just walk to the top, being aware only of the high altitude sickness and the harsh weather conditions. But again, apart from the fact that it is located within the border area of Tashkurgan, you must also obtain a climbing permit (which fortunately is not too expensive).

Xinjiang travel regulations- Muztagh Ata
Muztagh Ata peak

Natural reserves

Most of the area right beside the border with the Tibetan Autonomous Region is not only restricted for foreigners like a โ€žborder area”, but also is a part of a natural reserve zone. So it also requires a special (and extremely difficult to obtain) permit, which is also very expensive.

If you want to climb Ulugh Muztagh, be ready for at least 3 travel permits. The first one is the border permit. The second- the natural reserve permit. And the third- the climbing permit. In total it may cost you more than 10 000 USD (as far as I know) if you can get all these permits at all. Then, you have to pay also for mandatory guides with you- for their salary and all other daily expenses. And since this peak is extremely difficult to reach, you can imagine what are you going to prepare for…

Aksai Chin

Aksai Chin is a small area, which is not completely forbidden, but is very complicated (and expensive) for foreigners to enter. That’s because it is a disputed area between China and India. It also borders the Tibetan Autonomous Region.

Since the โ€žheavenly road” G219 from Kashgar (Kargilik) to Lhasa crosses Aksai Chin, this is the only way to enter this area. When you are inside, everything on your left and your right of the road is completely forbidden for foreigners. So it is possible to cross it only if you join an organized tour from Xinjiang to Lhasa.

Unclear and changeable at any time

Yes, that’s what I found when I traveled in Xinjiang. Normally, we foreigners would not be happy with these restrictions, and it is obvious. But at least we would like to know clear, in advance- where can we go freely, where we can go only under certain restrictions, permits, and other requirements, and where we can’t go at all.

Unfortunately, you can’t find any website or any other source of information, presenting all these regulations clearly. There is no such full information even in Chinese. Not only that, but most of the policemen, even the officials don’t know everything!

“Maybe” and “I think”

When we were in Xinjiang, we asked everywhere, every day various people- the personnel in the hostels, the policemen, drivers, even travel companies, questions like โ€žCan we go there? Can we rent a car? Can we visit this or that place?”. And the answers were usually: โ€žI think you can.” or โ€žMaybe you can’t”. But โ€žI think” and โ€žmaybe” doesn’t work for me, I still can’t plan a clear travel itinerary, based only on such proposals.

Even the officials not always know

Only when we went to the travel center in Kashgar, we were told for 100% certainty that foreigners can visit Tashkurgan ONLY by a travel company. And even there not everybody knew it!

Yes, I tried to apply for a travel permit independently, waited 10 mins on a queue and when arrived at the counter, the man said: โ€žok, give me your passport.” I was happy that seemed like I can obtain a travel permit to Tashkurgan and can travel there independently. He took my passport, started to input the data on his computer and when he found difficult to input some English words, he asked his colleague. He was almost ready with the permit. And then his colleague stopped him and said: โ€žbut he is a foreigner, you can’t give him a travel permit, he must apply for a travel company!” Yes, two officials working in this travel department, and even not all of them knew the regulations!

More ideas and proposals

I also talked with a guy from a travel company, asking him about various travel routes outside of the โ€žnormal” part of Xinjiang. I asked him about traveling from Xinjiang to Lhasa on route G219. And he told me something very strange. He said: โ€žYou can’t go there independently by self-driving. You can’t even go there by rental car with a local driver. But you can go there…by bike, by horse or on foot only! Because cars have to be registered, while bikes and horses- no.” And he was really serious.

He also said that if you just pass through this area transit, while traveling from Kyrgyzstan to Nepal via Xinjiang and Tibet, by foreign car, it is possible too! Of course, I strongly doubt what he told me, anyway, still kept it in my mind. Because I already knew that it is hard to find someone who knows the regulations 100%.

And not only that, but these regulations can be changed without notice at any time, unfortunately, toward more strengthening! Maybe this is the reason (or at least one of the reasons) why many people which is supposed to know the regulations, actually, don’t know.

Xinjiang travel regulations- an endless wilderness
An endless wilderness in Xinjiang

Why?

Yes, why we foreigners can’t just travel freely and enjoy the stunning nature everywhere without limits? Just like in Western Europe or America? What wrong are we doing? We are just travelers, we would not harm anyone. We just want to explore this beautiful land, then leave without being involved in anything inside.

I had such questions when I was in Kashgar and wanted to make a trip to Tashkurgan. And maybe many foreigners have the same questions too. So I tried to ask the local Chinese- โ€žwhy, for what reason?” If it has been free for us to visit Tashkurgan, why they changed it and created this new regulation for us?

And it was very difficult, almost impossible to get an answer. I live in China for many years already, and I know the Chinese traditional way of thinking. They don’t ask questions too much and don’t think too much (and no, it is not from recent years, it is a part of their culture since many centuries). If โ€žsomeone from above” orders something, they just accept it.

Just accept it

So, why we foreigners can’t travel freely to Tashkurgan? โ€žYou just can’t, that’s it.” Is the normal answer. If I insist asking, they keep answering: โ€žJust accept it, it is useless to ask.” In fact, they also don’t know, and don’t care โ€žwhy”.

Anyway, after many attempts to get some answer, finally one of the policemen said something like this: โ€žIt is for your safety. Because foreigners walking free around Tashkurgan don’t know where is the border exactly. There were accidents in which foreigners have been caught on the border because they were lost.” I don’t know whether it is the real reason, but anyway, I couldn’t get more explanations from anybody.

What if…

No, don’t think about it! Yes, some โ€žrebel thoughts” passed in my head. โ€žCan I secretly go around the checking point and silently appear at the other side?” or โ€žThe mountains are so big and wild, what if I just โ€žcrawl” to the restricted zone behind the checking point? Nobody could see me. I am not doing anything wrong, after all!”

But no, that’s not what we may think. It is the same as you try to cross illegally through a border between two countries, without passport and visa, and not through a normal border crossing. And if they catch you, you will have serious troubles, like staying in jail or be accused as a โ€žforeign spy”.

Understand the regulations

Yes, we are โ€žnot doing anything wrong”. But it is like you drive a car and cross on the red light โ€žvery carefully”, and pass successfully without an accident. Not only in China but everywhere in the world, although โ€žyou didn’t do anything wrong and didn’t harm anyone”, you will still be punished.

Because these regulations are designed for precaution. You may not do anything wrong, and many other foreigners too. But as it is well known, Xinjiang is a place with some tensions. I would not comment on who is right and who is wrong, because nobody is 100% white or black in Xinjiang. If 9 foreigners don’t do anything wrong, the 10th may do, trying to involve in these tensions. And if you can go freely in the restricted areas, why the 10th one can’t?

So, the best we can do is just to accept the reality in Xinjiang as a basic foundation of our trip. Then having them in mind, we still can enjoy all that this incredibly beautiful place can reveal!

Let’s get some more impressions of Xinjiang!

Check out some travel books about Xinjiang!

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Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China is an incredibly beautiful place. Foreigners can be really impressed by everything that this land can reveal. But there are some specific travel regulations that you must know when you travel in Xinjiang. Check out more about it here! ย Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China is an incredibly beautiful place. Foreigners can be really impressed by everything that this land can reveal. But there are some specific travel regulations that you must know when you travel in Xinjiang. Check out more about it here!

21 thoughts on “Travel regulations for foreigners in Xinjiang”

  1. I have crossed border from Pakistan to China via KKH in the late October without any problems,so the information in the article about this is out of date.
    Traveled quite a bit in Xinjiang in 2023.I was stopped by police traveling by taxi from Yanji to Heijin and was required to turn back as foreigners were not allowed in Heijin area.
    I was camping many times in China(well,trying to hide though from local eyes) or slept in the parks in the cities in dark corners of them and also trying to set up and pack everything back while it was dark-and had no problem even if later was asked by police saying to them I was camping they didn’t say it was not allowed just accepted it as normal.It was also the case in Xinjiang at Qemo Railway station when I camped in a bush near by.
    It seems that 2024 opens up Xinjiang even more,as I was told by local Kazakh he said that there are no more check by police on the roads,at least in Xinjiang.I can’t say if he is absolutely right as I’m only few weeks as over here this year but he claimed he was traveling from Emin(North-western Xinjiang near by Kazakhstan border at Tacheng) to Kashgar and there were no any passport checks on the road.Add to that that we made a trip with
    him by car from above mentioned Emin to Kuitun and back (700km) and passed many police check-post which were abundant, nobody checked us.Also in the winter of the 2023 I was told by the Chinese border guard at Emin if I could get towards North-east of the towan close to Kazakhstan border and he told me “yes,but foreigners are not allowed to go on G219 motorway which runs along the Kazakh border but recently in August 2024 we went that way and also by the G219(the police check -point before entering it was abundant) close to Kazakhstan border-no checks on the way and the local Kazakh said there would be no other check points along the motorway further.It is all good news as I travel in Xinjiang previously and knew well the hustles with these numerous checks…
    By the new Chinese rules also there should be no more hotels which accepts foreigners and others which will not.All should accept foreigners -thank for this end of secregation!The only problem that many hotels do not know how to fill up registration form for foreigners they must do with police that’s why many of them still refuse to accept foreigners as the wrong filling up the form may lead to a strong penalties or even closure of the hotel.

    1. Hi Igor, thank you for your update and valuable information! Yes, all of this is good news and it is much more convenient for foreigners. We are going to update our articles about Xinjiang soon, with the newest situation but to do this we need more details. We plan to travel to Xinjiang again next year too but we are looking for valuable information in advance.

  2. Dear both,
    thanks for the lot’s of efforts , writing this article . I’m living since nearly 30 years in Shanghai, got the Chinese drivers licence and even a greencard ( Chinese passport) but even with this I’m not allowed to drive myself in Tibet Reading your article, Xinjiang seems also too restricted. A roundtrip Shanghai- Kashgar- Lhasa- Sha by car was one my dreams but impossible . Can you tell me if entry by car from Qinghai is possible? Furthermore, when would be the best time for a visit outside the Chinese summer holidays ?
    Thanks in advance
    Eberhard

    1. Hi Eberhard! Yes, Xinjiang and Tibet are some of the most beautiful and exciting regions in China. Xinjiang is opened for foreign drivers with Chinese driving license, I (Krasen) myself have drived around Xinjiang without problems, at least in these parts that are not restricted. There are only multiple checkpoints where you have to register, but this is not a problem.
      On the other hand, Tibet is different. It is not allowed for foreigners to travel there independently. Probably, it is possible for you to drive in Tibet, but only with a local licensed tour guide who can arrange travel permit and should be with you in the car- probably, this would be expensive, you have to check which licensed travel company can offer such service. This is no matter where would you enter Tibet from. Kashgar-Lhasa-Chengdu is my dream too, and I recently heard that the section Lhasa-Chengdu (passing through Chamdo) is finally open for foreigners (it was completely forbidden, even with an organized tour, but seems now it is open for organized tours) which is a good news. But again you still can do it only by organized tour (you drive or they drive).
      I think the best time to visit Tibet, outside of the Chinese summer holidays is May or September. Yes, it is not so green at that time, but at least not too cold and with much less tourists.
      Wish you enjoy the best of Tibet and Xinjiang!

  3. This article on checks and restrictions is way way way out of date. I suggest you rewrite the whole thing, it is giving a very misleading impression.

    1. Yes, this was the situation in 2019. Now is the end of 2023. If you know some new useful information about Xinjiang that I don’t know, feel free to share in the comments, or write email to me personally. Every new information would be welcome.

  4. Hi Krasen, I really enjoyed read your blog. I’ve plan to go to Xinjiang, but I want to use the local travel company. And I saw in the comment, you have a friend that have travel company in Kashgar, could you give me his/her contact? Thanks!

    1. Hi Anabella! Yes, actually, I know two travel companies in Xinjiang, and I know some people from these companies. The better one is Silk Road Tours. They organize trips not only in Xinjiang, but also in other parts of China. Currently, the situation there is unstable, you don’t know when a destination can be unexpectedly locked due to Covid, but I advise you to contact them. This is their website with contact: http://www.silkroadtravel.com. Wish you a wonderfull trip in the beautiful Xinjiang!

  5. Franz Eppensteiner

    hello, may I ask how old is this article? my wife (Chinese) and I want to go to Xinjiang in the first 2 weeks of August … best regards, Franz ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. Hi Franz, this article is from 2019. As I heard from other travelers recently (in 2021), the things haven’t changed much, except some new closures due to the Covid pandemic. In general, the capital Urumqi, some other cities like Turpan, Aksu, Kashgar should be open for foreigners who are currently living in China. For your wife everything will be easier, unfortunately, the fact that she is Chinese can’t help you much (as it was in our case), but at least she can communicate with the local authorities in various situations (at checkpoints, etc.). Anyway, we still have some Chinese friends in Xinjiang and we will try to ask them these days and I will write in the comments again. ๐Ÿ™‚

    2. Hi again Franz, I just contacted a friend from a travel company in Kashgar. He confirmed that foreigners can travel freely around Xinjiang, except in the restricted areas (border areas, Tashkurgan KKH, etc.). In other words, seems the situation described in this article is almost the same as in 2019 (if there are some minor changes, they are temporary closures due to the Covid pandemic, unfortunately this is unpredictable).

      1. Franz Eppensteiner

        thanx a lot for double checking! I think with our itinerary we should be fine, as long as Duku is not overcrowded with cars, what I heard just is the case recently … do you have a more detailed description of what “special areas” are? many thanx and much love, Franz

        1. Hi Franz, by “special areas” we mean places with more restrictions than normal. For example, unfortunatelly, Duku Highway is in such “special area”- they don’t allow foreigners to sleep in hotels there, or to visit the official tourist attractions. They only allow foreigners to pass through Bayan Bulak, the main city on this route, and foreigners can’t stay there more than 30 min. But, technically, you should not have a problem to sleep in a yurt (ger) on the way, out of this city, at least nobody will check. When we were there, we traveled on Duku for 2 days and spent the night just in the car (but for other reason- there was a mudslide and we had to wait the workers to repair it, so we couldn’t proceed further), but we heard about other foreigners that spent the night in a yurt.
          Wish you a great journey in Xinjiang, and we will be glad if you share in the comments about your experience after the trip! ๐Ÿ™‚

          1. Franz Eppensteiner

            Hi we decided to cancel our trip to Xinjiang, due to the reason that it is super hot even in the north and if we cannot get a hotel, to sleep in the car when it s too hot or not knowing whereas to sleep we don’t think it’s a good idea. Another reason is that at the moment it takes 9 hours to ride 100km on Duku highway. All of that made us change our plans. Will just go to my wife’s hometown in Hunan and maybe nearby provinces (Hubei).
            Best regards, Franz <3

            1. Hi Franz, sorry to hear that, you would really love Xinjiang, but hope you can find another opportunity to explore it. Hunan and Hubei are beautiful too, just with a different beauty, and a lot of interesting places to see. Eastern Tibet (Western Sichuan) would be a great choice too, because it is in high altitude and the weather is pleasantly cool there (and the landscape is incredibly beautiful). Wherever you choose to travel, wish you a nice and exciting journey! Best regards, Krasen and Ying Ying ๐Ÿ™‚

  6. Useful information. Lucky me I discovered your site by chance, and I’m surprised why this twist of fate didn’t came about in advance! I bookmarked it.

  7. Iโ€™m travelling to Xinjiang soon and have searched high and low for some good info – particularly Xinjiangโ€™s restricted areas for foreigners. This post is soooo informative THANK YOU so much for sharing your experiences ๏ผš๏ผ‰

    1. Hi Rachel! I am glad that you find it useful and hope you would not have problems in your trip to Xinjiang. I hope the restrictions there are not hardened (they would use the pandemic as a reason), so you can travel there smoothly. Although this is a bit unpredictable, at least until now I haven’t heard about significant changes. Wish you a happy trip to the beautiful Xinjiang!

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